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Joined: Aug 2014
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Joined: Aug 2014
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My water was tested this spring
6ph- 10 total alkalinity - added 3 tons lime
Last week tested
6.5 ph. 40 total alkalinity
Question add more lime or call it good for now
Thanks
Pat W
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Joined: May 2013
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Joined: May 2013
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I bet the "they" need to know how big your pond is.
Where did you get your Lime, I am having a hard time getting less than a full truck load (20 Tons) Thanks for any help. I also have a ph of mid 6s
Rob C
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How long ago was the lime added, what type, and how was it applied?
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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I am guessing that the lime added was at a "per acre rate" to bring it to X pH? If so, that rate is for roughly a year. Plus, if it was just added to the water, and not your watershed, more acidic water enters on every rain event to quickly counter a water only ag lime application.
Some may not agree on my thoughts for ag lime, but I add about 5-10 times what a soil sample of the watershed and pond calls for to bring pH to 7.4.
Ag lime (crushed Dolomite limestone) will have a maximum pH of 8.2-8.4, which is still very safe for fish, and an application will last 10-15 years before a repeat is needed. Also spread the ag lime at whatever rate you choose, not only into the pond, but also in as much of the watershed as possible.
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Fishtruck
Got my lime from Davis feed in Buffalo they delivered 3tons, I think their truck will hold 12 tons
Pat
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Essup
The lime was added this feb and was dumped into and around the edges of the pond. Crushed fine powdered ag lime
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Rainman
The ag lime was added at the lake as access to watershed is heavy woods and just 3 tons were added
Pat
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Ag lime takes a while to work. The finest particles and the surface area of the particles do the initial quick work, but the coarser material takes time to neutralize the acids.
That is why the finer the grind, the quicker the action. Coarser stuff acts more slowly but tends to last over a longer period of time. After all, it is only ground up limestone rock.
I'd give it some more time.
On the other hand, it is very hard to get too much lime, so if you feel the need to add more, it probably will not hurt much and will just add to the buffering capacity and life.
Not an expert, and the opinion is based more on 40+ years of farming dirt rather than pond experience, so listen to the pond experts if their opinion differs from mine.
Last edited by snrub; 09/14/14 11:32 AM.
John
I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
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I am guessing that the lime added was at a "per acre rate" to bring it to X pH? If so, that rate is for roughly a year. Plus, if it was just added to the water, and not your watershed, more acidic water enters on every rain event to quickly counter a water only ag lime application.
Some may not agree on my thoughts for ag lime, but I add about 5-10 times what a soil sample of the watershed and pond calls for to bring pH to 7.4.
Ag lime (crushed Dolomite limestone) will have a maximum pH of 8.2-8.4, which is still very safe for fish, and an application will last 10-15 years before a repeat is needed. Also spread the ag lime at whatever rate you choose, not only into the pond, but also in as much of the watershed as possible. If the land and the pond can handle some extra magnesium use dolomite limestone. To the north here you can make magnesium level toxic enough to kill plants and tie up other micronutrients. The signs to look for is very deep green leafs and red vainy leafs. The only reason I have a problem with dolomite limestone is because of the % of magnesium and the tones of lime applied most of the time. This can equal to a very very high level of magnesium. Cheers Don.
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Suggest you get your soil tested (not where you added lime) and see what is needed. Alkalinity up to 200 (ideal rate) is great for fish.
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Joined: Aug 2014
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Up where we are it is as fertile as a sand beach but not that easy to lime cause it's all woods and brush mostly so basically have to lime just the pond area
Pat W
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But, getting a soil test done will give you an idea of what the soil is like under the water in the pond.
The more you can distribute the lime into the pond, the better it will be for the water.
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As is often noted water will absorb all that it can in the way of what the dirt has to offer. That is why soil tests help. They give you a baseline from which to work and from which your water will absorb. Then you know how to help in the process.
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Eewest
Wouldn't just a water test give the same results?
Wouldn't it tell you what you need or don't need?
Pat W
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Not alone and not after you lime. The 2 used together are best. If the lake is being built you have to rely on soil tests (no water yet).
Plus over time no matter what a current water test shows the water will revert to what is in the soil as water absorbs all that is can from the air and soil.
Last edited by ewest; 09/17/14 02:13 PM.
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That's bad cause the soil is devoid of most nutrients. According to the lake builder, I have approx. 235 acres of watershed that is mostly not mine, so I can't change most of the land fertility but can add lime to some of property that feeds lake. Grass burs grow real well ... Ouch ! Will lime what I can hoping to help situation in lake
Pat W
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Those sand burrs grow here too. When the soil pH is adjusted with lime, they no longer like to grow in it. So, there's another reason to lime your soil.
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Esshup
This upcoming spring I plan on puting out 12-15 tons of lime everywhere it can be spred by the lime truck in hopes of some of it being in the watershed. It will help the oaks and hickory trees and sweeten up the acorns for the wildlife thanks all for your input
Pat W
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