Pond Boss Forums AERATION Systems questions Duck pond

I have a small, shallow pond I use for duck hunting that I want to aerate to keep ice free. There is no power source near by so I was thinking of a windmill or solar panel system. I'd guess the pond is 1/2 acre and averages 2 1/2 to 3 ft deep. The pond bottom is heavily silted over rock bottom. I am capable of draining the pond which I did for the first time this year and sowed in Jap Millet for duck food and habitat. The pond then fills back by a spring. Will an aeration system be effective in eliminating ice with this set-up? Am I on the right track? Any advice would be helpful. Have someone trying to sell me a solar system and just want some solid advice here. Thanks!

PGC, Deeper would be better as 3 ft depth will get you only about 500 gpm turnover with the right diffuser.How far away is your power as there are some inexpensive pumps that can pump air for "miles" no electric nearby needed.As far as a windmill in 3 ft of water be very selective on a diffuser as the standard 7 inch Koender type airstone may not give much open water and perhaps 100-200 gpm turnover with 1 cfm.What solar system are you looking at??

my exp with solar power is they seem to work poorly when you need them to work the most. In other words cloudy days need more aeration and they produce less. Also we have more cloudy days and shorter days in winter when you need it to open up your water. I would look into as Ted said running a long air line from closest electric source. Does the pond have some deeper water? I know you have soem water less than 18 inches for the ducsk but you could place the diffuser on the deep end for more efficency.

I've been talking to Jim Glennon at Malibuwater and he wants to sell me a 80w solar aerator. Don't know anything about it other that what I just told you and really have no knowledge of any of these systems in general. Also, while there may be a spopt or two where the water is over 3 ft, they would be few and far between. Generally the pond is very shallow. Nearest power probably 1/4 mile away.

1/4 mile is not a problem unless you dont own or have the access to the property inbetween.1/2 inch or 5/8 poly tubing in only .10-.15 cents per ft at you local HomeDepot/Lowes type store. For less than $200.00 you should be able to have an air line from your power source to the pond. This line can stay above ground or be shallow trenched in. A freeze control unit is simple to hook into this system for above ground application.Greg is correct on the cloud situation and seems the same as far as wind for the windmills a lot of the time too.If you want to send your pond length and width to our email on the website I would be glad to size you a simple system that will give you as much open winter water as possible.As far as solar we have shipped several one and two diffuser units to New Mexico and southern California but they ran them off of panels and batteries they already had so I cant be of help in that area.

The line from the power source would have to be underground as there is a field (often tilled) in between. Thus, I would rent a trencher. So picture barn at top of hill (A) as power source. Line goes down steep hill, crosses a creek, goes up and over another hill (B) and down again toward pond that is prob smaller than 1/2 acre and less than 3 feet deep. 1/4 of a mile distance separation is a total guess. Tubing is easy to figure costwise if distance is figured. What is the cost of the pump and does it just plug in? Is freeze guard necessary? How do I figure the correct diffuser and how much am I looking at cost wise there? Never knew this could be so complicated, but what isn't I guess?!

PGC I sent you an Email with some additional specs.

It sounds like you are not a good cantidate for aeration. With a steady downhill slope to the pond it would be possible. You are going to have condensation forming in the dip in the line which will cause alot of back pressure. Does anyone have a situation where they have a windmill pumping well water into a pond to keep it open? Our wells keep a sizable hole open with just a trickle of water coming in even up nort here eh! Koenders has a water pump available if I am correct.

Keystone, you are correct in the back pressure comment for a rotary vane pump , ie Gast 0523 10 psi max comparison,This is why we use dual piston custom built Wobl pumps of 4.4 CFM @ 20 psi as these will keep the line clear of condensation in PineGroves situation.Single line to pondside and split from there with a pair of 500-700 gpm diffusers (3 ft of depth) Back pressure will be 10-15 psi max and pump can take 30psi.I see you are a Koender dealer dont you have a water pump as mentioned??

We don't carry the water pumps in stock since we dont' get many requests for them. Not here to sell anyway. Would pushing a slug of water up a hill with a 50' rise eat up your psi here? What about any freezing? I am having trouble imagining the line being completely free of any condensation, but I haven't attempted such a project before. We have to deal with the freezing issue up here.
Robert

For this short of a run the back pressure would present no problem.Your always going to have condensation (just the nature of compressed air) anytime of the year but not a slug of water as the moisture will be carried to the diffusers and expelled. When the lines are trenched in at even minor depths freezing does not seem to be a problem. My Koender 20ft mill only has the line inground 4 inches deep and I have never used a freeze control on it.Running for the last 6 years this way. I do offer freeze control as an option (Koender unit)on custom built units when and if ice is a concern for winter operation. We recently shipped a system to South Dakota that has a 1 inch poly line laying on top of the ground for 3000 ft to pondside from compressor. We are running 3 diffusers (open water for a snow goose hunting business)www.OutdoorAdrenaline.com
with the Koender freeze control unit tapping into the 1 inch line so that when back pressure of 12-15 is reached ethanol alcohol is injected.Do you know of anything other than RV antifreeze that you suggest as I would like to find a higher % alcohol as RV was suggested by Koenders. Brakeline antifreeze is flammable and may be a problem in some situations however does a great job of removing moisture. In small bodies of water I have a concern about freeze control products in general. "Thanks"

Quote: "What about any freezing? I am having trouble imagining the line being completely free of any condensation, but I haven't attempted such a project before. We have to deal with the freezing issue up here. "

We have customers who have installed systems as far north as Anchorage, AK. without any problems. If the tubing is insulated with standard pipe insulation where exposed to the atmosphere prior to either entering the water below the ice or the freeze zone in the earth, condensation is not a problem.

You were correct about the dips in the line if the supply line is not below the freeze line.

We had a customer who did not listen to or read the owner's manual and simply layed the supply line above the ground. His line did freeze shut. 1/2 cup of alchol poured into the line unplugged it. This kept him going until the spring thaw when he trenched the line below the frost line.

I thought Malibu had an automatic anti-freeze option with their windmill aeration units.