Pond Boss Forums MANAGING AN EXISTING POND Fertilization Too Much Fertilizer

I have a very small pond (1/4 acre) that is downstream from some deer pens. I am in W Texas and we don't get much rain. When it does, the pond is instantly "fertilized". The pond is in a condition of permanent "bloom". I have a windmill aerator running most of the time (no electricity). I had tried to grow some plants to help filter the inflow but the deer kept them eaten down. I have now fenced the pond and will try to grow some beneficial plantlife. Any ideas - Andy?

Wildlife Ranch Supply

How bad is the "bloom" in best & worst case conditions. Visibility depths ever measured? and recorded?

Does the blood form surface films such as bluegreens? Has anyone ever examined the algae species composition during worst bloom periods?

Do fish die during blooms? Blooms are supposed to be good to produce zooplankton to feed fish. No zooplankton in pond?

Sometimes some hypereutrophic ponds (super nutrient rich ponds) will not support fish year round without special water monitoring and heavy aeration.

Bill,

I would think he can he do the "elbow test" for visbility, or if he has a secchi dish as long as it is not under 12 inches he should be O.K. Of course he should actually be measuring phytoplankton visibility and not any other turbidity as in clay, silt etc. I believe I have seen literature that says 12 to 18 inches of visiblity is optimum?

what's the "elbow test" ??? stick your arm into the water down to your elbow, and if you can't see your hand then your good or what??

Yes, pretty much. Go to the following publication for details:

http://www.fish.washington.edu/wrac/images/wrac-105.PDF

The recommendations have been 18-24 inches for some time. I believe this was changed to have a larger window of error if over fertilization occurs. In old publications it does say 12-18 inches.

I think the visibility was increased due to LMB being able to feed better at the distances of 18"-24", thus they achieved beter growth and control of bgill.

Thanks for the input guys, but...

The question is are some plants better than others for absorbing extra nutrient content?

Are there other methods other than water change and adding plants which will assist in utilizing/removing the extra nutrients.

I know about the elbow test and it is irrelevent to my question. My bloom is the color of pea soup and quite dense. No bad smells or anything, just way too much bloom due to nutrients washing in from the deer pen.

Thanks.

I have a friend that has a doctorate degree in horticulture. Bermuda grass in southern climates does a great job of filtering excess nitrogen. I'm not sure if the tall fescue in the north would do the same. The Univ. of Arkansas did an experiment where they loaded up water with nitrogen, ran it through a 4' section of Bermuda Grass, and when it came out, it was nearly free of the added nitrogen. Also helps filter suspended particles.