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#266277 07/30/11 06:54 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
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Posts: 109
I want to run a water line out to our pasture and the easy would be to trench the water accross our ponds dam.

My question is it safe to do? Here in SC if we trenched it in on the dam down to 14" we'd be safe from freezing.


One acre pond built in 2007.

Stocked:
Mar 2010 500 BG and 250 Shellcrackers
Mar 2011 25 LMB and one bag of FHM

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How much freeboard do you have on your dam at full pool? What is your dam width at this water level?

Last edited by RAH; 07/30/11 07:06 AM.
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Originally Posted By: RAH
How much freeboard do you have on your dam at full pool? What is your dam width at this water level?


I'll try to measure it tonight, but here is couple of pics of the dam the water can come up about another foot. The pics show that we can drive a truck across the dam.
Attachments
Pictures 061.jpg IMG_3144.JPG


One acre pond built in 2007.

Stocked:
Mar 2010 500 BG and 250 Shellcrackers
Mar 2011 25 LMB and one bag of FHM

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,807
Likes: 340
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RAH Offline
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How much extra work would it be to trench on the backside of the dam?

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Do you mean down below the overflow tube/pipe?

If so I'm trying avoid having to pump the water up hill as much as possible. The goal is to pump water up to the wood fence at the top of the pics.


One acre pond built in 2007.

Stocked:
Mar 2010 500 BG and 250 Shellcrackers
Mar 2011 25 LMB and one bag of FHM

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,807
Likes: 340
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I was refering to the area where the back of the dam starts to lope downward. FYI - Longer runs will slow the water due to friction as will sharp bends, so larger pipe sizes are beneficial. The head on your pipe (vertical difference in elevation between the source and the outlet) will also affect flow and pressure, but dips and rises in-between will not. The water gains pressue on the way down equal to what it loses on the way up. Think of a garden hose full of water with both ends held up at the same elevation. If you lower one end, the water flow will not depend on the elevations in between, just on the difference in the elevation at each end. The same is true with water that is being pumped.

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 109
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Originally Posted By: RAH
How much freeboard do you have on your dam at full pool? What is your dam width at this water level?


At the pipe that starts the siphon on the over flow the dam is +20' wide and the road bead at the very top its 12' wide.


One acre pond built in 2007.

Stocked:
Mar 2010 500 BG and 250 Shellcrackers
Mar 2011 25 LMB and one bag of FHM

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 109
D
D Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 109
Originally Posted By: RAH
I was refering to the area where the back of the dam starts to lope downward. FYI - Longer runs will slow the water due to friction as will sharp bends, so larger pipe sizes are beneficial. The head on your pipe (vertical difference in elevation between the source and the outlet) will also affect flow and pressure, but dips and rises in-between will not. The water gains pressue on the way down equal to what it loses on the way up. Think of a garden hose full of water with both ends held up at the same elevation. If you lower one end, the water flow will not depend on the elevations in between, just on the difference in the elevation at each end. The same is true with water that is being pumped.


I was thinking that on the top there would be less chance of erosion from the water running down the side into a new trench.


One acre pond built in 2007.

Stocked:
Mar 2010 500 BG and 250 Shellcrackers
Mar 2011 25 LMB and one bag of FHM

Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,807
Likes: 340
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RAH Offline
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I would guess that if the bottom of your trench is above the full-pool level, then the risk of a problem is low. I would still tamp down the backfill in layers so it does not provide a weak spot in the dam.


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