I have a small pond, roughly 2 acres on my property that I purchased last yet. The previous owner let it go all of last year as it was taken over by what I believe is Filamentous algae.
There are mats of this over approximately 5% of the pond, the rest of this appears to be under the surface (about 50% of the pond, growing up from the bottom.
Neighors told be the previous owner used to treat it sucessfully with Cutrine (liquid). However, I see it comes in liquid and granular form.
I can see the liquied working on the floating mats, but would it have any effect of the alge below the surface? I was thinking the granular might be more effective?
Thanks, I appreciate your input.
Liquid for surface, granular for bottom growing. I'd use granular in water more than 3' deep, but I want to see what the experts say before taking that depth as gospel.
Make sure that the deeper stuff is really algae, or it won't work on it.
Definitely granular form. Disperse below to immediately control ones at the bottom, while the surface will get the payload as the chemical floats to the top.
However, my suggestion is a half-half approach. The granular version has a heavy weight formulation to keep the chemical at the bottom. Only about 15% will float to the top. The liquid utilized an oil base emulsifier that keep the chemical at the surface, but will eventually sink, which is only ~5%. So, half bottom, half top version.
I just bought some CP 12 pounds of it granular. I am going to spot treat with it this year in hope to hlep my grass carp out in getting my chara under control! That's the plan anyway. Just remember to be careful and not over do it and end up having a D.O. crash cause you just got rid of all your weeds that were producing Oxygen and now they are not! They say you should only treat 1/4 to 1/3 your pond at a time. Just FYI in case you didn't know that.
Good luck!!
Plus the weeds use O2 as they decay.
Plus the weeds use O2 as they decay.
Esshup,
When would you say is a good time to first treat with Cutrine Plus? Mid March? End of March? Should I wait till I see Chara growing? It's been in the mid 60s here lately and 40's at night. What do you think?
thanks
jrwpmv,
I have used both in the last 3 years.
The liquid will work on FA (Filamentous algae) better on the surface than the granular. The liquid will work on the submerged FA as long as it isn't more than 2 feet down AND the water isn't moving (or expected to move) due to wind. Water movement dilutes the liquid with the surrounding water so reduces the effectiveness on the area being treated. If the water moves, the granular works better because it stays where you apply it.
The granular is much easier to apply especially if you use a hand-help spreader ($5-$10). On the flip-side, it cost more to use the granular because you cannot treat as much water as you can with the liquid. My pond is only a 1.25 acre pond with FA only on the edges during the spring so the extra cost is not important as if I had to treat 20 acres, etc.
Hope this helps!
I will be treating for chara this spring and I'm using the Cutrine granules. I'm going to apply it when the water temperature warms to at least 60 degrees, from what I've read this is when chara starts to grow. Some info on algae below.
Use CUTRINE PLUS Granular to easily control bottom algae or algae growing within 3 feet of the bottom. Cat litter size granules settle on algae and immediately begin attacking growth. Ideal for use on Chara. Makes early season spot treatment of Filamentous Algae a snap! Early treament will help prevent the formation of heavy surface mats.
For best results, use under conditions of minimum water flow. Apply early on the morning of a calm, sunny day. Contact time should be at least 3 hours.
To apply simply broadcast granules uniformly over the water surface. Use 30 lbs. of CUTRINE Granular per 0.50 acre. Broadcast by hand or by using a mechanical spreader.
Treat heavy infestations in sections to avoid oxygen depletion. CUTRINE PLUS granular is very effective on bottom growing algae. For Chara algae control this is our number #1 recommendation. Chara should be treated in spring and summer or when weed is soft and supple. Mature, established Chara may become calcified in hard water and very difficult to control.
A single early application will usually control Chara for an entire season. Bottom growing Filamentous Algae may require re-treatment for season long control. There is no minimum water temperature recommended for use.
From here:
http://www.aquaticbiologists.com/cutrine%20plus%20granular.shtml
Actually my Chara grows in the winter. I'm positive of that.
Actually my Chara grows in the winter. I'm positive of that.
Really? Mine for the most part dies off. I do seem to have some bottom algae growning though. Bright green string type algae. Will CP work and that stuff too?
If we get a bright sunny day I'll get you a clear pic of chara growing in winter. Green and thick!
Yes granular CP will work on algae when it's on the bottom. When it's up the liquid works better.
My thinking is CP doesn't work as well in really hard water. My water is harder than woodpecker lips!
My thinking is CP doesn't work as well in really hard water. My water is harder than woodpecker lips!
Now that's a good one! I think I am with you on the hardness. I believe my hardness last checked was like 40 to 70 range. My PH is like 6.5 My Total AL was 20. I am going to try my best to get some lime in my pond this spring too. I got to get it in there. Thanks for your help!
Well upon further review yesterday I noticed a lot of this string algae I have starts in one of my watershed creeks. It's a small wet water run off more than a creek, but this string algae is in it all over. I did not have this the couple of years so I am guessing this is coming from my farmer friend in some way shape or form? Anyhow I put 12lbs of CP granuals out yesterday. About how long does it take before you start to see a difference where you treated? A week or 2? I also saw Mr. Blue Heron agian! I gotta get that fence up before he takes all my fish.
It sounds like the water in the creek has a LOT of nutrients in it......
FWIW, a client has a pond that also has a pump in it to use the pond water as a waterfall/stream feature on his property. I stocked Tilapia at the rate of 40#/ac in his pond and he had absolutely no FA problem in his pond all summer long. I had to treat the stream about every 6 weeks for FA. The Tilapia couldn't get into the stream to eat the FA.
Yeah I believe that's whats going on. This small creek will eventually dry up here in the next month or so. We'll see how it goes. I did put some CP in it for now just to see what happens. It's not a very fast running creek at all.
I use the liquid with cidekick for the floating and granular for the bottom. I have been treating for 2 years and have noticed a moderate receeding of my "usual" green shoreline barrier. Dont know what to expect for this year though.