Thanks again, Kelly, for the recommendations and the label info. This does trigger a few additional questions.
1) is there a water temp that tells that it's ok to start using the herbicide. Most of the labels say something like in spring or early summer when biomass is reduced and plants are rapidly growing. I will be out of the area for about 6 weeks beginning in mid April. How long after the first half could the remainder be done and still minimize DO issues?
2) I don't have chemical injection equipment. I saw online generally how they are put together. I have a 25 gal sprayer that maybe could be used with some diy hoses with weighted pipes and nozzles. When I read the hardball label I interpret that the entire treatment area (ave depth say 4 ft) must get to the recommended ppm. To get 21 lb 2-4-D would take about 12 gal of hardball per acre. Am I figuring that right? To get the equivalent amount of 2-4-D would take 110 lb of granular navigate?
3)My pond kinda has two "bays". Can I treat each bay totally or is it necessary spread out the partial treatment areas to minimize DO effects. ( are the fish smart enough to move to better oxygenated water if they are threatened with lower oxygen?)
4) How can I reduce clarity? Does dye work for stream fed ponds? Should fertilization be considered once weed problem gets managed? Talked with extension folks who don't understand it. They recommend getting a soil sample of pond bottom. I'll be doing that.
As usual, thanks again, Kelley. I bet you get tired of sharing your info with us uninformed folk. It is very much appreciated for sure.
