I wouldn't start any fertilizer program until I had water tested by T A&M U. Fertilizing won't help if the alkalinity and pH isn't right. Think of the pond water as soil in a crop field. If the pH isn't right for what's going to grow, then the fertilizer can't be utilized.

Be careful that you don't over fertilize. If you don't have water flowing out of your pond, then it's expensive to bind up the excessive P.

I use a water soluble fertilizer such as Aquatic Environmental Services Grower Max (10-52-4) and use as little as possible - up here I'll use 1/2 lb per ac/ft to start, wait two weeks and if no bloom, add another 1/2 lb per ac/ft. I don't add alfalfa bales or anything like that to keep organic matter out of the pond - enough enters the pond in the form of leaves, grass clippings, etc. Organic matter turns to muck.....

Water temps are in the low 60's when I fertilize or higher.

If there's any plant life in the pond I don't fertilize - it will cause it to grow vs. the bloom that I'm trying to establish. Same with FA in the pond. If it's there, I don't fertilize until I kill it.

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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).