hd82, the hydrated lime will raise your ph almost instantly, and often to lethal levels. Even if the final level is not lethal, the fish will still be shocked from the sudden change.
The alum takes, at a minimum, several minutes to lower ph and the fish can better tolerate the change.
The shock factor is also why you apply the alum first and start in the deepest part of the pond working slowly toward the shallows when applying. This both allows for the fish to have "normal ph" water to escape and allows the "refuge" water to change ph gradually while the chemicals spread.
The best way to apply is to do sections as you said by first applying alum followed by the lime solution.
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That 2-cycle pump you got is the one I use also. It will work well for you.
I'm not sure what your question is about what the clay attach to but....Suspended clay particles (colloidal clay) are negatively charged and constantly repel each other like the same poles of magnets repel each other. Aluminum Sulfate has a +3 positive charge and Hydrated lime has a +2 positive charge. The negatively charged clay is attracted to the positively charged alum and lime molecules. These particles quickly clump onto the positive molecules, gain weight, and fall from the water column and sink to the bottom.
Once you reach what I call the tipping point. you will see "clouds" of clay gathering in your water like clouds form in the sky. If clearing does not occur you can increase the treatment the next day or the same day to reach the tipping point. You'll know it when you see it. It is VERY cool. Be sure to turn off your aerator as you want the water as calm as possible for the best results. Take your time and cover the entire area as I've said (more alum/lime over deeper water than in shallow water) and you'll be fine.
Don't be surprised if you see your water getting green right away from the new light penetration either....this is a good thing.
Last edited by Rainman; 09/02/10 05:39 PM.
