I've had the best luck with liquid fertilizer - it seems to produce better blooms for me, and seems to last longer in the pond than powder form. There are a few if not several different brands of liquid out there; probably any brand that's 10-46-0 or 10-52-0 would be fine. I'm sure Overton probably sells it so you might check with him; I get it from my local co-op and that's usually an option as well. Greg Grimes sells it on his website. The best time to start a program of fertilization is in the early spring when the water reaches around sixty or sixty-five degrees depending on who you ask; I just start in mid-March or the beginning of April.

The biggest key to avoiding a fish kill is just to not overdo it: if you have 18" or less visibility, don't fertilize again until the visibility goes above 18". In the spring you might have to fertilize four times in two months just to keep a bloom, especially the first year you implement it; but in the summer you might be able to go six weeks or more without fertilizing if you indeed have very fertile soil. And, if you were to install an aerator, that would be extra insurance against a kill. I fertilized for ten years on multiple ponds without a kill, though I did come close once on a four-acre pond that I probably over-fertilized that year (fertilized at least once when visibility was not beyond 18") when we had several days in a row of cloudy weather and a plankton die-off evidently occurred. I happened along just as the fish were piping at the surface and ran home and got my grandfather's V-bottom with 40-horse Johnson and rode around the lake for a couple hours, and no fish beyond the handful that had already died when I discovered the problem were lost. I never had an aerator but they are definitely extra insurance against a kill and one would be a great idea if it's feasible for you.

Since you live in Texas, you would probably want to tailor the program to the rainfall or lack thereof that's occurring at any given time: in wet seasons you could keep it at 18" or even a little under that (more water flushing through the pond makes the fertilizer last less time anyway), and then in a drought you might want to keep it at a little beyond 18"; one of the best hatcheries in the South recommends doing this in the summer to avoid situations like the one I once encountered.

The forage should do great in that new pond - that's where you're stocking them I take it? They'll have some time to orient without predation, and then next spring hopefully they'll get off a good spawn before you stock the bass.