i'm doing the same thing.

1) reduce the source of run-off if possible or plant a lot of nutrient loving plants at the source of the run-off. This will make your shoreline grow wonderful habitat and filter the amount going into the pond

2) make sure you're not mowing within 10-20 feet of the pond to increase the filtering effect.

3) remove branches that might catch the duckweed at the surface--want to ensure water can move at the surface. don't worry about taking out "fish habitat" you can always add a synthetic habitat back later which won't contribute nutrients

4) where possible, thin the trees/shrubs around the pond to allow airflow from the wind. Duckweed doesn't like wind.

5) aerate from the bottom for nutrient removal, but aerate with a pond fountain to move the water at the surface to move the duckweed further away. Bubbler aerators to the same thing but work in a smaller radius.

6) enzymes/bacteria will speed up nutrient reduction.

7) if you have the time and energy, skim the duckweed off periodically. It will grow back. (proskim-like machine or nets)

8) Grass carp and fish that eat the stuff. Helps but not completely. Check DNR regulations--not appropriate in all states.

9) Raking. Rake the muck out. Makes great compost when mixed with the duckweed. Dry out the muck and shoot it through a chipper shreddeder, then add it to fresh duckweed and come grass clippings in a compost tumbler and you'll make soil for all the plants/flowers in the neighborhood.

10) Pond dye. This is really a step after you've removed the duckweed, but it will keep any algae down that might be growing as well.

11) Inevitably, Whitecap or Sonar. One or two treatments go a long way and costs quite a bit less than all these other means. Must be a contained pond. Might need DEQ permit. You still might have duckweed after treatment, but a much more manageable amount.

Let's build a skimmer!


Bennie
LMB, HBG, YP, CC, FHM, located SE Michigan
1/3 acre 8-9' deep, aerated 24/7 1/4 hp rocking piston