Hello Mike
This is in response to our telephone call today as far as an aeration system getting rid of your nutrients and cleaning the bottom not likely in your situation , to make that claim you would have to see core samples of the bottom and distinguish how much is solids and what the bio mass load is aeration does not break down dirt. you need proper bottom placement and DEPTH. We have had systems installed in Graydon Pool Ridgewood N.J. 1962 Maple Lake Wyckoof N.J. 1967 These were swimming lakes with heavy run off and a usage rate of 1200 people per day 75% kids and the only one still in use is Graydon wich gets regular well water fed in and the bottom cleaned. Maple lake became to much to handle and now has housing.

You have what I call the urban soup bowl all the nutrients from your neighbors lawns goes straight to you and how about that new dyed mulch. Your Battle is won buy removing sediment and then an aeration system.

I will send you the E mail for Jeff Marcus he contacted us a year ago he is located in East Setauket N.Y. He was reffered to us by another customer he called and explained the size and and where he wanted to put the dirt. I told him We would need a permit and ballparked the job around $16,00 with everything to grass.
There was a long silence and a reply about leaving $100,000 on the table. I then asked where he was when I found out that he was in East setauket the greed light went on. The man was so smoked screen by government guide lines some big time dirt mover from another state that was going to pump treat water etc etc.

After making some suggestions last year he is now the proud owner of an ole fashion dredge permit and will probably cut out the greed, and get a good job at a fair price.

The solution to your pond is to get rid of the water and keep it dry you will have to use your immagination but i am sure you have a spot.
Use a plastic mixing tub [purchase at mason supply] rest that on top of mud set a 3/4 hp pump inside and 1 1/4 line and discharge water move tub as water drops to just above mud use a pump with auto float. After a couple of weeks mud will start to crack at this time make yourself a path from the driveway to the pond with 2 layers of nylon filter fabric 12 foot wide and 8 inches of stone on top this will keep trucks from sinking and making a mess on the main road[ after job the stone can be pushed into pond]

Hire a hoe for the day and cut channels into the mud to drain off to where your pump is . You might get lucky and dump a load of rip rap at the shore and clean the pond out from there.

The key is to get as much water out of the dirt as possible you might have to drain for another month to dry out I doubt there is a spring it is just an old silted up pond. Remeber you also run the chance of opening up a drain course so dont get greedy

I think the only permit you will need since the pond is not impounded and no trout streams by or runoff to the bay is a dirt removal permit from the town. I would call local top soil makers or garden outlets to haul dirt away for free when dried for a year and miked with mulch and lime they will make a nice profit at $90.00 a yard also check with dumpster company for free removal. If the building department wants sanitary transport just line dumps with poly.

Good Luck
I think you said you have water falls to keep some alge in check a couple of #8 bare copper wire in falls will give you some help or a floating corker pvc and copper wires in pond

Last edited by Scott Trava; 08/06/08 03:00 PM.

Scott Trava
Catskill Pond
http://catskillpond.com
scott@catskillpond.com
Returning Catskill Waters To A Simpler Time
EST. 1923