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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 135
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 135 |
I need your collective advice as to plants I should consider adding in and around the new pond. My goal is a low-maintenance pond that attracts a lot of wildlife. I don't want any of the "invasives" to make a maintenance chore to keep them from taking over.But I do want cover for the bfish and birds. The pond was dug in August of 2005, has a 3:1 slope to 8' deep most places - one end is shallower and has structure - lots of 2'-3' depth there. The total surface when full about 2/3 acre - it is a little over 1/2 full now. There is American Pondweed there already. The little pond nearby has cattails and creeping primrose - I am sure the cats will migrate and I will transplant some primrose unless advised other wise. I hope to transplant from friends but am trying to get a list of what I want.
Near the pond I have woods (I will put up boxes for wood ducks), mowed fields, bog/swampy areas, a nearly year-round creek. I have some crabapples, wild cherry, typical hardwoods for NE Ohio and some conifers all near the ponds. Need advice on bushes/shrubs that would be useful to attact wildlife. We have lots of birds but want more. The best thing that could happen would be ducks but there may be too much mowing nearby the "wild" end of the pond, along with our human activity.
If you have particular plants that you think I should add to the list of what goes in or near the pond I would be grateful.
Good news (for me) - 7 turtles showed up and are sunning on the logs in the new pond.
2/3 acre pond 12 miles from that big pond we call Lake Erie.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 320
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Avoid the Primrose. It can quickly take over areas of 4' or less of depth.
As for wildlife plantings, try button bush, choke cherry, wild plum, blackberry, spicebush, any of the dogwoods, round-headed and slender bush clovers, and wild pear.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 135
Lunker
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OP
Lunker
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 135 |
2/3 acre pond 12 miles from that big pond we call Lake Erie.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 103 Likes: 1
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 103 Likes: 1 |
I use to think Coontail was kind of neat until I got a pond that had it. I would avoid that species.
I have transplanted some bulrushes and arrowhead which seem to multiply slow enough to maintain at this time. I've avoided cattails because of discussions here about their ability to take over. A friend gave me a second planting of a different variety of rush and in it there were a type of lilly. I haven't got rid of it yet because it is kind of neat but I'm sceptical of it's reproduction abilities. I have not Id'd it at this time.
FH
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 764
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 764 |
Ohio Scott, plants are a much trickier group to work with than are fish. A plant that works great in one area, might be horrible in another. This means you really want to get local advice in addition to what you get here.
Probably, some type of plant will grow in your water 3-4 ft. deep and less. When I say grow, I mean fill in completely. Water lilies aren't invasive here but might be in your area. I also personally like the various species of bullrushes. Splatter Dock (Nuphar lutea) aka yellow water lily might not be invasive in your area. These are all emergent vetetation.
Almost any submergent vetetation can become invasive. The best waterfowl species, by far, is Sego. However, it certainly can foul a fishing line.
Most people will tell you that the best way to control vetetation is with water depth. You seem to have done this. Keep us informed.
Norm Kopecky
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,154 Likes: 493
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,154 Likes: 493 |
Good shallow water emergent plants for you are Pickeral weed (Pontederia), blue water iris or northern blue flag (Iris versicolor), (yellow iris Iris pseudoacorus) is okay and gets taller,grows deeper, and spreads faster; good control can include removing seed pods), Most of the spike rushes (Eleocharis) are very good. I like the Sweetflag (Acorus calmus) and prefer the variegated form. There are several varieties of good arrowhead (Sagittaria) and water arum (Calla palustris). Water plantain (Alisma) will come naturally. I like lizard tail. I really like wild rice but your ducks and geese will eliminate all new spring growth so reappearence the next year will be very difficult to achieve. I recommend, eliminate all cattails. . Avoid Giant Reed (Phragmites) which is common in wet areas of your region. If you need the taller emergents use the yellow iris. Common burreed will probably be okay for your goals. Bulrushes - Scirpus (hard stem and soft stem including three square rush) in a small pond are too invasive for my preference. If you want rush use the soft rush species of Juncus. I have and enjoy the flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus), but it is now spreading to all areas of my pond. It has similar height and form as three square rush Scirpus americanus).
All Spatter dock (Nuphar), in small ponds that I've seen, eventually become a nuisance and grows to 8'-9' deep. It will take over your 8' deep pond. Use dwarf hybrid lilies if you want the floating, leaf, lily affect.
Your American pondweed is it Potamogeton nodosus - long leaf pondweed? It is good.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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