Forums36
Topics40,964
Posts558,011
Members18,506
|
Most Online3,612 Jan 10th, 2023
|
|
14 members (Sunil, Shorthose, rjackson, Bobbss, Jason D, John Folchetti, Lake8, JoshMI, LeighAnn, FishinRod, canyoncreek, Drago, Boondoggle, highflyer),
1,284
guests, and
182
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13
Member
|
OP
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13 |
Hi everyone and thanks to all who bring us this great site and all of you that contribute such informative information.
I have done fairly extensive initial research, but still have more questions than I have answers.
First, let me describe the property. It is 200 acres of pine forest land in central Virginia just east of Richmond. An intermittent creek runs along the northern property line, angles through the mid-section and then turns to follow the southern property line. The creek is the property line along the northern section, but my property lies on both sides once it begins to angle through the mid-section and until it exits the property. The land is gently rolling with an elevation from 40' to 110' feet above sea level. Even though the creek is listed as intermittent, I have never seen it dry. The topo maps and county list it is as a 2' stream. What exactly does the 2' mean? The site currently has several beaver ponds through out the course of the stream. I estimate the water shed to be approximately 200 acres. The soil is sufficient for holding water and for damn construction.
I plan to clear approximately 20 acres around the pond and another 30 acres several hundred feet from the pond, but only about half of that cleared area will be in the water shed. The remaining water shed should remain in forest land. However, in the future I could see some of the adjoining landowners selling property for low-density residential development. The pond will be primarily used for retriever training. For that use I have seen ponds that are only 3-4' deep, just enough for swimming water. However, based on my site elevations, I anticipate I will have a maximum depth of 10' in order to ensure enough depth at the upper end of the pond. I plan to do minimal excavation. The pond will have a good bit of shape. Several long, curving points and one or two islands. Most of the excavated material will be used to build the points and islands. Some may be used for the damn. Most of the damn material will come from the house site excavation and from clearing around the pond. Now that the pond is deeper, fish will be stocked and I will go with the bream, bass and catfish combo that everyone seems to recommend.
I have a have a fairly narrow and steep area where I plan to build the damn. I first thought to put in a typical stand pipe and riser, but after getting advice and reading many of the Pond Boss posts, I have begun to re-think this idea and want to explore alternatives. Several area ponds have a riser with "slats" that can be removed/added to easily raise and lower the water. I also have seen area ponds with gravel or cement spillways and several with pipe spillways through the top of the dam. I have never seen a siphon system, but they sound very interesting and easy to install.
I plan to do some of the work myself and have a contractor friend with a dozer and excavator for the work I am unable to do. I am not looking to spend a fortune and have been able to estimate most of the actual construction cost. I still have not done any research on pipes though. If I went with a traditional riser/pipe set-up, what would be the approximate cost? The damn base will be approximately 60'. Also of note, I will need to drive across the damn. I was thinking of a damn with a 10' width at the top, 2:1 front slope and 3:1 rear slope. The damn would be 12-14’ in height.
Some of my questions are; as I will need to drive across the damn, is a spillway feasible? I would prefer not to use concrete or large gravel for the spillway. I have seen some that are dug well to the side of a damn, but I am not sure my topography will allow for that option.
I am also concerned about the size of the water shed and stream flow. Especially after tropical storm Gaston dumped 14" of water on us in a matter of hours. Hopefully this was a rare event, but now I am paranoid and don't want to waste effort and money.
Permits? I want to involve as few governmental agencies as possible. The Agencies in my area tend to either say no or require so much paper work, site study and other agency involvement that it makes a project too expensive for the average person to pursue. Not sure it matters in the long run, but the stream is not named. From what I have heard it is better to beg for forgiveness and enjoy your pond rather than ask and enjoy no pond! That said, I am opposed to going to court/jail/paying excessive fines. Does any one know the specific risks involved? I have also been told that since the land is zoned A1 (agriculture) that I can always say I am buying some cattle for the new pasture land and need a water source.
I plan to "break" the beaver damns, let the area drain, then dig a pit just above the damn area and pump water below the damn site during construction. The area may still be too moist to get heavy equipment on and I will have to rely only the on the "reach" of the excavator.
Eventually, I will build another pond below this one. The two ponds will probably be about 200' apart.
I appreciate all who have taken the time to read this post and will value any advice given. Most of my questions are concerning pipes, spillways and emergency spill ways; damn construction; water shed and stream flow concerns; and governmental regulation, but any and all comments are appreciated. By the way, what is the best time of year in my area to begin construction?
Thanks for your help.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
|
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99 |
Here's a few answers. To calculate pipe diameter and length, you need some engineering help. Call Pond Dam Piping at 800.333.2711. Also call Agri-Drain at 800.232.4742. Both companies can help. I would also recommend calling your local NRCS office and ask for engineering help. You must know volumes of water expected to flow during major rainfall events. That's the benchmark for deciding pipe size and length. Next, a 2-1 slope is too steep. It will slough. You need a better grade. Not only is an emergency spillway a good idea, I consider it critical. Pipe will be primary spillway, but without an emergency spillway, water can breech your dam. Plan an earthen spillway. Make it wide, and you can easily drive across it. Study topography..it may make sense to build your spillway well away from your dam. I have seen many lakes where the spillway topped a different ridge, especially for maximized sites. Permits vary from state to state...but I would certainly understand the consequences before I put myself in a position to ask forgiveness. Lastly...build during the driest months.
Teach a man to grow fish... He can teach to catch fish...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13
Member
|
OP
Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13 |
Bob,
Thanks for the information regarding pipe diameter and flow.
Do you recommend a 3:1 slope for both the front and back sides?
Thanks,
John
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
|
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99 |
Depends how much dirt needs to be moved. If you have more, make the backside slope 4 to 1...easier to mow. If not, 3 to 1 is fine.
Teach a man to grow fish... He can teach to catch fish...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 469
Lunker
|
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 469 |
From what I have been reading on this site over the past several months, some people have no problem getting permits, while others, (me) find it nearly impossible. I have found the NRCS to be somewhat helpful with watershed calculations, but they don't issue permits. Fill out a Army Corps of Engineers application # 4345 and send it in. I had my NRCS agent verify with the ACoE that this is the correct form. They told him that if I didn't get a response within 30 days, then I am approved. I know this isn't the way things normally work in government, so I sent my application via FedEx so I get a signature for it. A 4345 is available at http://www.wetlands.com/regs/tlpge04a.htm Good luck and please let us know how it goes.
Hey Moe, I'm trying to think but nuthin's happening!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12
Member
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12 |
JohnB, Bob about covered it. For my two cents worth make sure that you save as much top soil as possible. Not having enough topsoil to establish AND maintain grass cover is a problem that I see over and over. If you do not have enough depth to your top soil the grass will die during the hot dry months. Nick Jones www.soilmovers.com
|
|
|
Moderated by Bill Cody, Bruce Condello, catmandoo, Chris Steelman, Dave Davidson1, esshup, ewest, FireIsHot, Omaha, Sunil, teehjaeh57
|
|