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#53834 05/09/05 08:20 PM
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My small pond (1+ acre) is in the slow process of filling up. I've put in all the structure I had originally planned on installing. Because I've been looking at it for awhile now, I'm starting to wonder if I have enough structure. There are 11 bass buckets, 3 log piles, one submerged island, 2 rock/brick piles and plenty of drop of walls. There are also 2 areas of pea gravel. This all sounds like bass heaven to me, but I'm not a bass. I understand no one reading this is either, but maybe some of you think more like a bass than I do.

Could I get some feedback on the amount of structure present in this pond? Please go to the links and see the photos.

Thanks in advance.

http://www.photodump.com/viewer/babo/structure1866.html

http://www.photodump.com/viewer/babo/structure2721.html


0.6 acre pond / 13' max depth / Bonham, TX
#53835 05/09/05 08:40 PM
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Jimmy,

The only thing I see missing is the red carpet! I'm not qualified to know if that is enough structure or not, but it sure looks like a nice job to me.


- Smoke 'em if you got 'em

[Linked Image from i4.photobucket.com]

#53836 05/09/05 09:06 PM
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Hey Jimmy,

Your pond is looking great, I would say add more. The cover you have looks great, especially the cinder blocks and bass buckets. It looks like your pond has room for plenty more.
If it was me:
I would have 11 groups of 3-4 bass buckets together, for more dense cover. I would just go to each location you have them now and add 2 or 3 more bucket per location. Experiment by putting some in a line, some in a semi-circle, some together, etc...

I would also have 2-3 more large piles of cinderblocks and buckets. e.x. One on each side of the pond then one down near the drop off.

I think what you have now it good but denser areas of cover will provide bass better ambush points and smaller bait fish more protection.

Also small fry and fingerlings hide in cover close to shore and can sometimes be right up on the banks under stumps, rocks and debris. You may want to provide cover for your youngsters before the first spawn nearer to shore, maybe a nursury type place in 6 inches-2 foot of water. If it was me, I would take some cinderblock and create a semi-wall that seperated a shallow section of about 10-20 feet parallel to the bank. Then add some cover branches, sticks etc. to provide overhead cover for them.

If you spend some time watching your fish habits you will see your bass coming in for dinner in the evenings, they will position themselves in sometimes 4-6 inches of water facing shore. Lower light level gives them more confidence to go shallow. Thats when the gorge themselves on young or minnows that stay in the shallows.

Providing the right cover/shelter for each part of the food chain will help maintain a healthy balance for your eco system.

Good luck and again just my .02 worth.

#53837 05/09/05 11:12 PM
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jimmy,
I am envious of some of your structure...good job. A 'rule of thumb' that I have read it to have no more than 25% of the pond area with structure. Don't forget that this also includes 'natural' structure such as water plants, fallen trees, etc. The goal is to centralize the fish population around a few key areas. With too much structure you end up with the fish being spread out everywhere. Let us know how things turn out!

Sarc

#53838 05/10/05 01:09 AM
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looks good, but i'd add more brush to your brushpiles. make them more dense, where you have one stump with branches, put 3 or 4 of them right up close to each other. I'd also probably stack some of the block up on each other, maybe wire them together so if you hook them you wont drag the top ones off and get you some steel rods of some kind and bend them over and hook the bottom blocks and push the rods into the ground. some block pyramids would be cool and provide mazes for the baitfish to hide in. bass prefer vertical structure!!! try to get some height out of your structure. If you have a local block plant or a lowes, home depot. ask them to give you busted blocks, or look for block buildings going up and stop and ask them to call u when finished and you'll pick up broken block and leftovers. good luck


Keven
#53839 05/10/05 04:31 AM
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Jimmy,


Dennis
#53840 05/10/05 05:24 AM
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Jimmy,

I will try this again.

It is early am, I am waiting for my brother to show up so we can go pick up a tractor. He is always late so I should have some time for my favorite subject.... Habitat.

My favorite pond work is putting out habitat. It makes my kids go crazy as they see habitat as lure traps. You may want to make a map of your habitats for future reference or even consider marking the largest and a few of the best with nylon rope attached to some old duck decoys. There is nothing like knowing exactly where the cover is when you are competing in a mini-bass tourneyment.

A small island would be great.

If possible, cut down a cedar tree and drag it in one piece into the pond. I like the natural look of a fallen tree in the shallow water but it should not be too big for the size of the pond.

I suggest you buy the BASIC POND MANAGEMENT by Lusk and McDonald; available from Pond Boss.

Here are just a few items from the book:

Brush piles should be about 10 by 10 ft with 5 to 10 per acre.

The book recommends making fish hotels by stacking broken cinder blocks about four feet high. Rock piles are great, the bigger the rock, the better.

The book discusses using PVC piping.

The book shows how to use tires tied together in a pyramid of three rows of three tires each. Cut vent holes in the tires.

A pond needs a lot of cover in the shallows where bass feed in the spring and summer.

Make the cover extend from the shallow to the deeper areas to allow for water level dropping in the dry months.

Make the cover connected in a natural underwater trail so fish can move around the pond without having to travel through too much open water.

Be prepared to replace any wood items over time as most will not last more than three or four years in the south.

Be sure to take three old oak pallets, cover them with chicken wire and weigh them down in the shallows, stagger them towards the deeper water. These will be needed to allow fathead minnows a place to live safely and lay their eggs in a secure spot. The chicken wire will help keep the egg eating fish away from the fathead nests. Smaller mesh would be better if available. You may want to tie some brush to the pallets.

By the way, don't work yourself to death, you are suppose to be enjoying the pond as a pond manager. At this stage and for the next few years, it is easy to forget you are suppose to take the time and just enjoy using the pond. In other words, do not become a pond slave. I think a top priority for every private pond is a canoe or two man boat.

Got to go. Good luck,


Dennis
#53841 05/10/05 08:23 AM
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Fellow pond bosses, thanks for the input. I'll be sure to incorporate many of your creative ideas.

Feel free to keep sending me your suggestions. The more I can get from you guys the better my pond will turn out and the better this post will be for other habitat junkies.


0.6 acre pond / 13' max depth / Bonham, TX

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