Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Floating vs. Stationary Dock

I want to build a dock this spring in an existing pond. I like the idea of a stationary dock (stablility, looks nicer) but I'm not too sure of how the ice will affect it. If I make a dock supported by a pipe structure I have read that it needs to be taken out each winter. On the other hand a floating dock seems simple enough to build and I could get it out of the pond relatively easily (not sure if this is necessary due to ice) and move it to a different location if I needed.

I've already bought a book on the subject and read most of the posts here related to building a dock. I plan to use it for a little fishing with the kids and also just to sit and relax.

Anyone have a preference/opinion?

How large is your pond? Ice damage to docks is more of an issue in very large ponds and lakes. In smaller and average size ponds the ice doesn't move around much from wind action to pile up and damage your pier, although there may be exceptions.

I have had a 70 foot permanent treated lumber dock on my .62 acre pond for several years now, and have had no problems with ice even though I have had up to 18 inches of ice. However the pier itself is above the water and ice level which may help.

I will be putting in a floating pier on my trout pond (another pond only 1/10th acre out back) only because since the pond is so small when we fight a trout up to 12 pounds I don't want a pier in the way!

In found the easiest time to install a permanent pier on a pond here where we get ice in winter is when there is ice cover. With my 70 ft. pier we bolted the 7 ten foot sections together and then pushed it out onto the ice in position with a tractor (probably could do it with a pickup). We also installed sleeves on the main 2 by six runners before pusing the pier onto the ice. Then we cut holes in the ice where the galvanized posts (from Menards) would go and dropped the pole through the sleeves. Then we pounded the poles into the bottom of the pond with a pile driver and a sludge hammer until they would not go anymore. We then wedged up the pier with some scrap lumber with out tightening the bolts on the sleeves (also from Menards), and when the pier was the height I wanted above the ice I tightend the bolts.

Only downside due to at least 8 feet of water under the pier is the pier is a little wobbly but quite secure.

The fish love it and hang around the pier a lot expecially since I feed them there.

Pond is about 2 surface acres. I MAY be draining it for renovation (muck, leaks near top, drain pipe replacement) within the next 2 years. If there are advantages (or no disadvantages) to a stationary dock I could wait until water is drained to drive in some pressure treated posts (6x6's?) for dock supports. However, if there are potential problems I could avoid the wait and build a floating dock now.

Rob, Wahoo dock's makes floating docks that are very durable, asthetically pleasing and Ice tolerant. You can check them out at www.wahoodocks.com

If you build a stationary dock, I would use steel pipe rather than treated lumber. A solid frame of welded pipe (We used oilfield drill stem, 2 7/8" buried 30" in concrete), with channel iron welded to the top allowed us to use brass deck screws into native cedar planks. We cut the cedar trees from our pond bottom during construction and had them cut at a nearby sawmill. I would put a dock like this one in any small northern pond.

I want to second what Cecil said. If you're in an area that has enough ice to support you while you are working, putting in a dock this time of year is easier than any other time. We are building a 8' X 32' heavy duty dock right now. I am able to assemble and level the dock easily. Then it is just a matter of cutting holes in the ice for pilings. It would be close to impossible to do this any other time of year.

One other thing, we put a railing around all of our docks so that kids or people in wheel chairs can't fall in. The railing doesn't detract from but rather adds to the fishing experience. We also put a roof over the docks which makes for very pleasant fishing in the summer.

I have a connect-a-dock that I only used a few months. The shape is a T if anyone is interested. Want to sell because we moved & the new pond already has a dock.

Floating docks are generally safer if your water level goes up and down a lot, but if the water level stays pretty much the same year round where you are going to use this pier then I think a permenant structure would actually be safer: Permenant structures should be a little more stable. I've seen floating docks that were so poorly built that they would move around under your feet so much that they are not really safe to walk on.

Of course a poorly built permenant dock would also be unsafe so make sure you do it right!

I personally feel that a permanent dock looks better than the floaters, however, since this is an existing pond, a floating dock would probably be easier for a do-it-yourselfer.

I built my dock during winter 2003 6 in. ice. use menards 2" galv. pipe, and welded a 4" channel steel frame 12' by 28' and made adjustable collars from next size bigger mild steel pipe and bolted these to side of dock so we could mark ice where to auger holes. Used a 2 man pile driver I welded from scrap, and drove pipes till handles of driver hit ice, I also used 2x6 treated for deck and routed all the way around boards before installing boards(didn't want grandkids getting splinters, made it nice)also used the 2" rachet style tie downs to draw ever board tight against each other, because after they dry out you get a nice little 1/8 to 1/4 in. gap. Built my dads dock this way back in 1989 and have never had to adjust, still level to this day and 2x6 still in great shape. had as many as 25-30 ISU football players on it this summer playing king of dock with no wobble what so ever. My dock can be seen on the photo gallery 4th page 2nd row no.2 pic. If someone wanted close ups of how I made any thing I could e-mail close up pics. hope this helps

I have built piers on different jobs. Steel framing is far superior to any kind of wood because steel is stronger and welds do not move like bolts, screws, or nails. Because of the strength of steel vs. wood you can span larger areas with fewer supports and bracing, consequently fewer materials are needed. Deck the steel frame work with wood and you have a structure that will be around a very long time.

Nick Jones
www.soilmovers.com

Nick:

Have you ever used Aluminum for a floating dock?
It's way lighter than steel, but then I'm sure it has it's drawbacks as well not the least of which is expense...

Mine is solid but I used 4 inch pvc sewer pipe for the pilings put in rebar and then filled with concrete. Very sturdy but we only get an inch or 2 of ice here.

Bob

Bob,

What exactly do you mean put in rebarb? I know what rebarb is and I think I know what you mean but could you elaborate? Do you drive the rebar into the pond bottom with the pond empty, slide the 4 inch pipe over it and then pour in the concrete?

I initially put the dock in when the pond was being constructed so I used a post hole digger to make holes put the pipe in and then concreted around the base. After that I drove 3 pieces of rebar into the ground inside the pipe that were 2 ft longer than the pipe. I drilled my mounting holes and place dowels in the hole and wired the rebar to the dowels to hold it in place and then filled with concrete. After it hardened I pulled out the dowels and attached my main 2 by 8 beams. I had to drill out one dowel that broke when I twisted it but all the others came out fine.

Round two for this summer. Attach 2 by 8 by 16 to end of pier to make a "T" off end of pier. Get ladder (water is only 4' deep and drive pvc into gorund with a sledge and a board to protect the pvc. Suck out water with a shop vac and extension hose (50' of 1.5 inch sump discharge hose). Drill holes and rebar as before and fill with concrete.

I tried this method up to the point of filling with concrete in the shallows next to the pier last fall and it worked fine so think it should do ok.

If you were working on ice it might be very easy to do as you could draw out your outline and piling positions on the ice. You might give it a try before you thaw out.

Bob

Forgot to add one thing I raised the level of the pond 1 ft after I built it and the dock was in the water. No problem I just drilled three holes in the concrete in the pilings with a masonary drill used pvc couplings and a 12 inch piece of pvc to make an extension glued rebar in the holes with foundation glue put on the extensions drilled my mounting holes and filled with concrete. I then jacked the pier up one piling at a time to the new holes. Still as sturdy as before.

Bob

Bob,
I posted this question about 1 year ago and am finally moving ahead with my pond renovation. Since I will be draining the pond I am planning on adding a stationary dock instead of a floating dock. I like what you did with your pilings. Here is a silly question - how did you get the concrete in the 4" PVC? Did you make some sort of funnel? Did you mix the concrete yourself? About how much concrete did each pipling require?

I mixed the concrete myself bought a mixer from Harbor Freight they go on sale fairly cheap. I just used a small hand shovel to scoop it in the pilings. Not really sure how much each one required but you could figure the volume of the piling and calculate it.