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I have a 2 acre pond that has been full for a few months and my next phase of the process is aeration. I have read a fair amount on aeration and had a system drawn up from a company. The quote was way too much for me to even think about spending. Here's what I'm thinking:

-Compressor will sit at my shed (200 feet to waters edge)
-I plant to run the equivalent of 2" of airline to a manifold at the waters edge (it may be 2 - 1" lines together).
-I'm hoping to use 5 - 12" diffusers (the unique shape of the pond will require something like this)
-I plan to use pipe that is a little larger than 5/8" to feed each diffuser.
-Diffuser #1 = 200' @ 15' deep
-Diffuser #2 = 100' @ 17' deep
-Diffuser #3 = 250' @ 9' deep
-Diffuser #4 = 200' @ 10' deep
-Diffuser #5 = 140' @ 8' deep

My biggest question is whether the two pumps I am looking at will work.

Here they are:

Lifeline LL-RP80P

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN563QY/?co...lv_ov_lig_dp_it

OxyMan OM800

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NR6UJO6/?co...lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Would either of these handle 5 diffusers with the length/diameter of pipe, depth/number of diffusers? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I will document the process and report back as it progresses.

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Both compressors produce 7+cfm which indicates they are 3/4hp. Each will easily operate 5 diffusers. You need not use 2" dia tubing; 1" or 1 1/4 ID air delivery to the shoreline then the 5/8" ID pipe will be adequate for either of these pumps. Due to high air volume check or change your air filter element annually.


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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
Both compressors produce 7+cfm which indicates they are 3/4hp. Each will easily operate 5 diffusers. You need not use 2" dia tubing; 1" or 1 1/4 ID air delivery to the shoreline then the 5/8" ID pipe will be adequate for either of these pumps. Due to high air volume check or change your air filter element annually.


Thanks a lot for the input Bill. I thought they would be ample, but wanted to make sure. I am excited to get the materials and get started. Probably a good idea to put a pressure gauge on the line coming out of the pump?

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You should consider putting flow control valves on each line (or at least the shallow ones). You have diffusers at such different depths that your most shallow ones will boil like crazy while your deep ones will be more lack luster. This way you can choke back the shallow diffusers which forces more air to the deep ones. I put valves on all of mine so that I can shut off the deep ones in the winter.

And, a pressure gauge is very handy. It's a very good trouble shooting tool and I use mine to set up my one diffuser for wintertime.


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Originally Posted By: Quarter Acre
You should consider putting flow control valves on each line (or at least the shallow ones). You have diffusers at such different depths that your most shallow ones will boil like crazy while your deep ones will be more lack luster. This way you can choke back the shallow diffusers which forces more air to the deep ones. I put valves on all of mine so that I can shut off the deep ones in the winter.

And, a pressure gauge is very handy. It's a very good trouble shooting tool and I use mine to set up my one diffuser for wintertime.


Thanks for the information! I plan to have valves on each line for that very reason. I will put a pressure gauge at the beginning as well. Thanks again!

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Something else I added as an after thought was a dump valve. I only run one of my three diffusers during the winter and I thought my pump might over expand just one of the diffuser if all the air was sent to it. The dump valve exhausts air from the main line so that the sole diffuser only gets 1/3 (thereabouts) of the pumped air. I can judge this by looking at the boil, but the pressure gauge backs up my guesstimate of the boil.


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Originally Posted By: Quarter Acre
Something else I added as an after thought was a dump valve. I only run one of my three diffusers during the winter and I thought my pump might over expand just one of the diffuser if all the air was sent to it. The dump valve exhausts air from the main line so that the sole diffuser only gets 1/3 (thereabouts) of the pumped air. I can judge this by looking at the boil, but the pressure gauge backs up my guesstimate of the boil.


Sorry for the slow response. Your suggestion makes perfect sense. I will add that in at some point. Thanks Quarter Acre

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All my supplies are in and I'm getting ready to install my system. Since it will be close to my house, I want to eliminate as much noise from the compressor as I can. I poured a small concrete pad for it to sit on and plan to build a little box to put over it. I plan to insulate it to dampen the sound and use left over vinyl siding for the outside of the box. I was just going to drill a bunch of small holes on the underside of the lip of the siding and through the insulation board. My question is am I in danger of my compressor overheating inside such a setup?

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Most commercial units come with some kind of fan to help with cooling. If that is not possible, make sure you have good vents to allow the heat to escape.


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"""... build a little box to put over it. I plan to insulate it to dampen the sound and use left over vinyl siding for the outside of the box. I was just going to drill a bunch of small holes on the underside of the lip of the siding and through the insulation board. My question is am I in danger of my compressor overheating inside such a setup?"""

Yes - for a compressor shelter as you plan to build you will need a fan that runs with the compressor to vent hot air out of the box. Two main enemies of air compressors moisture and HEAT.


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I used a fan from McMaster Carr (# 9191K32)...

Equipment-Cooling Fan Kit with Thermostat, 4.69" Square, 100 CFM Airflow, Steel Guard = $55 plus shipping...

for my Gast 0523 (1/4 hp) air pump. It's 110 volt and has a built in thermostat that kicks the fan on around 80 degrees.

It has been in use for over a year now and works very well. My pump enclosure is just big enough to put the pump in and gets morning to late afternoon sun.

You might consider using a larger fan...McMC#9191K72 ($82). It moves more air for your larger pump. Don't forget to put an air intake in your box so the fan has somewhere to draw the air from.


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Noel
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Thanks for the information David, Bill, and Quarteracre! I figured it would need some type of cooling system. My fan will be here tomorrow. We did get the entire system installed and tested out (minus the cabinet and fan). We got all 5 diffusers to boil water and everything seems to be working as planned. It was a fun challenge to install the system and troubleshoot the process. I do have a question though, when I ran it long enough to adjust and get all diffusers running simultaneously, the diffusers were boiling black water that had that stagnant stink to it (I probably ran the system for less than 15 minutes total). My diffusers are about 16" off the bottom so I was surprised by this. Will this be normal for a bit and then subside? My pond has only been full for a few months. One of my main goals for this system was to help with water clarity as my wife won't be happy if it makes the pond muddier! Thoughts?

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It's common for a new system to push up old dead water that stinks. Rule of thumb is to do 15 minutes the first day and double the run times every day after that UNLESS you smell the septic, then stop and do that time again the next day, then continue with doubling times (always stopping if you smell the stink). Some folks have had some fish kills with this rule of thumb so be cautious.

Most people say that the pond gets muddy when you start up, but will clear up within a few weeks. Mind has not, in fact, aeration has been in my pond for over a year now and I just added 18" to my diffusers. They now sit 3 feet off the bottom. Keep in mind that I have not determined the true source of my lack of clearer water, but I suspect that I have some sort of clay that likes to suspend and the diffusers may be encouraging it.


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Originally Posted By: Quarter Acre
It's common for a new system to push up old dead water that stinks. Rule of thumb is to do 15 minutes the first day and double the run times every day after that UNLESS you smell the septic, then stop and do that time again the next day, then continue with doubling times (always stopping if you smell the stink). Some folks have had some fish kills with this rule of thumb so be cautious.

Most people say that the pond gets muddy when you start up, but will clear up within a few weeks. Mind has not, in fact, aeration has been in my pond for over a year now and I just added 18" to my diffusers. They now sit 3 feet off the bottom. Keep in mind that I have not determined the true source of my lack of clearer water, but I suspect that I have some sort of clay that likes to suspend and the diffusers may be encouraging it.


QA I will be very careful about introducing aeration to my pond. I only have FHM, GSH, RES, and crawdads in right now, but will be putting SMB and YP in this fall and WE in the spring. I would like to have all the kinks sorted out before my predators are introduced.

Says you are in West Central Missouri. Where exactly? We live outside of Chillicothe. I'm sure my smell is partly due to my pond sitting dry for almost a year in the drought we had and 7-8 foot tall ragweed growing all over the basin. The dead stalks are still all over under the water.

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I am about 10 miles south of 70 and a few miles off 65. maybe 2-1/2 hours from Chillicothe.

The smell will be disappear from the air boil once you have brought the aeration online. It will still be on the bottom of the pond if disturbed. I brought my diffusers up to clean and extend yesterday and they did not smell too pleasing. That's just the nature of the depths of a pond.

It sounds like you are getting lined out in good fashion. Sometimes the lack of patience tends to cost more time and money.


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Noel
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Hey guys. My aeration system has been running well for 3 months now. I have been running it for 14 hours a day with all five diffusers functioning well. I never had to adjust the individual valves after getting them set on day one. I will get pictures of my system on here soon.

My question is this: Do I have to do any special shut down procedures this fall? Run it shorter and shorter increments for a week or two? Our water temperatures have fallen pretty quickly in the last 10 days. Most smaller bodies of water without aeration are turning over. I just stocked my pond with SMB, YP, and WE last week. I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up at this point! My compressor is in a cabinet by my shed and it pumps air about 150' to a manifold of 5 quarter turn valves that control each diffuser. Any winterizing I need to do to my valves, etc.? It gets -5 to -10 here at times in the winter.

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My compressor has a specific shutdown/long term storage procedure. If you do not follow it, the compressor will rust (due to condensation) and freeze up. Then you have to buy the rebuild kit which isn't cheap for my pump. Don't ask how I learned this with two different Gast pumps....


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As long as the compressor does not get damp nor accumulate condensate over winter you should be in good shape to just shut it off for winter. Make sure snow does not blow into the cabinet. It it were mine, the compressor which is an expensive part of the system, I would move the compressor for winter into a garage, barn, shed or other building for winter. In Ohio I suggest that aeration can be shut off around Oct 31. In MO you might want to wait until Nov 10-15. By then your pond should be fully circulating. You can cut the run time in half now until you shut it off.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 10/13/19 08:07 PM.

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I will check my manual and see if anything specific is listed. Trust me, I have been in your shoes before and learned the hard way! Thanks for your input wbuffetjr.

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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
As long as the compressor does not get damp nor accumulate condensate over winter you should be in good shape to just shut it off for winter. Make sure snow does not blow into the cabinet. It it were mine, the compressor which is an expensive part of the system, I would move the compressor for winter into a garage, barn, shed or other building for winter. In Ohio I suggest that aeration can be shut off around Oct 31. In MO you might want to wait until Nov 10-15. By then your pond should be fully circulating. You can cut the run time in half now until you shut it off.


Thanks for the input Bill. It will be no problem for me to unhook the compressor and bring it inside. I will keep running it until sometime in November.


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