The sheepsfoot should be used as they put the clay back in the hole, in 8 inch or so layers. You want to end up with 18"-24" thick layer that is knitted together when they are done.
The sheepsfoot should be used as they put the clay back in the hole, in 8 inch or so layers. You want to end up with 18"-24" thick layer that is knitted together when they are done.
I don't think that they are going to be putting clay back into the hole. They are starting to take the topsoil off today and store it on the next to the pond. They have asked me if I want to put the topsoil back on top of the exposed clay once they are done. That is the question I don't know the answer to.
I know vegetation needs topsoil to grow, but is it necessary for the bottom of the pond to have topsoil?
Also, he sent me over a digital CAD drawing of the proposed pond. See attached file. 3:1 slope all the way to depth. Which will be 12-14 feet.
I'm no pond builder, but I can say that my small pond was mucked out last year and the dam had little to no residual muck left on the rocky clay and the plant life is doing exceptional in that area. Other areas has some darker soils left around the remaining upper perimeter (about a third). I suppose it all boils down to the fertility of your watershed, mine seems to be very nutrient rich. If it lacks fertility, it might be a good idea to put some top soil back in, if not, I'd leave it out. Let's see what the experts say before you take my advice however.
EDIT: I have read that some folks will put some top soil down so that they can seed grass or wheat (or whatever) over the entire pond bottom and sides so that erosion is kept to a minimum as the pond fills.
I'm no pond builder, but I can say that my small pond was mucked out last year and the dam had little to no residual muck left on the rocky clay and the plant life is doing exceptional in that area. Other areas has some darker soils left around the remaining upper perimeter (about a third). I suppose it all boils down to the fertility of your watershed, mine seems to be very nutrient rich. If it lacks fertility, it might be a good idea to put some top soil back in, if not, I'd leave it out. Let's see what the experts say before you take my advice however.
EDIT: I have read that some folks will put some top soil down so that they can seed grass or wheat (or whatever) over the entire pond bottom and sides so that erosion is kept to a minimum as the pond fills.
good point about the erosion as the pond fills. I have about 200 acres to my north that drain directly into my pond. So hopefully it doesnt take long to fill once spring hits in KS.
i had them switch to a 4:1 slope all around except for the north side. gradually went to a 10:1 slope to provide a vegetation area. Hopefully it'll bring in some ducks and provide tons of shelter to smaller fish.
No on the topsoil back into the pond below the water line, yes on around the pond to get things to grow. I'd plant then get erosion mat down (jute fibers, not plastic mesh) asap to prevent soil erosion above the water line until the pond is full.
Many newly built ponds in my area are muddy because of suspended clay. One of the things I discussed with my NRCS guy was that I would like non muddy water. He suggested putting as thin of layer as possible of topsoil back in the pond so water was exposed to less clay. Some of our subsoil clays suspend in water, some do not give a problem. Silt in the topsoil being larger particles than clay will settle out where some fine clays will not.
I did so and lining with topsoil did give me a pond without the normal muddy clay turbid water.
That is the good part to putting topsoil to cover the clay bottom. The bad part is it introduces fertility so may make any FA or plant problems you could have worse. If you line with topsoil you may have no need to fertilize to get an algae bloom.
I built another pond very near without putting topsoil covering the clay. It is clay turbid and muddy looking. I fertilized to get a bloom. It will clear eventually as the bottom gets a muck layer. At least all old ponds around here eventually clear unless bullheads are keeping it stirred up.
So it is a mixed bag putting topsoil back in to cover the clay. It depends.
My clay is the type that only suspends for three or four days after a huge rain. I wonder if that type of clay contributes to my leak problem? Is non suspending clay more pervious than suspending clay?
Stir up some of the clay in a jar and see if it settles rapidly enough. If not, put topsoil on top of it. If it's the type of clay like mine that settles rapidly, the jar should clear overnight.
Personally, I'd rather use aluminum sulfate and hydrated lime to change the ionic balance in the pond water than put topsoil into the pond. The potential excess nutrient problems associated with the topsoil is what I'd try to avoid.
I tested some top soil and some clay in different glass jars. After 12 hours it was clear, and after 24 hours it was almost 100% settled.
Also, they started work on the pond yesterday!
Asked the bossman if he had any concrete laying around with no re-bar in it. He delivered a load today. They are big pieces, so I'll probably create 1-2 piles in a 12 ft of water. I'm assuming i can get more if I ask...
I like to group structure. For example 3 piles in a triangle with about 10 feet apart. Also some structure with good vertical relief ( bottom to about 3 feet below the surface in deep water). In the structure archive is a narrative on types of structure and a few pics.
I have about a dozen tabs open for structure ideas and have been slowing building over the past week. I have about 8 done already. Working on some deeper water pieces now. Concrete is drying. I'll post pics once I am done.
Below is day two's progress. I told them I wanted a 4:1 slope on the sides. I will verify tomorrow if it correct, but 4:1 seems a bit steep. Seems like my artificial structure would just roll down to the bottom unless I created a flat area for place them.
The hole is about 9-10 feet deep right now. Which is actually 11-12 feet at full pool
One questions. Everybody here says that a sheepsfoot roller is HIGHLY recommended. Even though they are not going to be putting clay/topsoil back in (after the get done digging), do I still need them to pack it back down?
I have about a dozen tabs open for structure ideas and have been slowing building over the past week. I have about 8 done already. Working on some deeper water pieces now. Concrete is drying. I'll post pics once I am done.
Below is day two's progress. I told them I wanted a 4:1 slope on the sides. I will verify tomorrow if it correct, but 4:1 seems a bit steep. Seems like my artificial structure would just roll down to the bottom unless I created a flat area for place them.
The hole is about 9-10 feet deep right now. Which is actually 11-12 feet at full pool
One questions. Everybody here says that a sheepsfoot roller is HIGHLY recommended. Even though they are not going to be putting clay/topsoil back in (after the get done digging), do I still need them to pack it back down?
All bottom areas should be compacted with whatever device that is being used for compaction. You dig a hole but it needs to be compacted well for it to hold water providing the dirt is proper for building a pond. Even with compaction many ponds leak due to poor building and compaction techniques. "You dig a hole, but build a pond." Holes never hold water for long.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
If you cannot get a roller, run a loaded scraper or large backhoe with the front bucket loaded all over the bottom and as far as possible up the sides several times.
All bottom areas should be compacted with whatever device that is being used for compaction. You dig a hole but it needs to be compacted well for it to hold water providing the dirt is proper for building a pond. Even with compaction many ponds leak due to poor building and compaction techniques. "You dig a hole, but build a pond." Holes never hold water for long.
If I need to get it compacted, then I will. Just gotta talk to the boss on the job site.
I am also going to get some soil samples of the clay, once they get to depth, so I can decide if I need to add lime/alum. It'd be alot easier to add it when she is dry.
I agree with packing the pond bottom. It's cheap insurance. Ask the boss how much it would cost to come back and pack it if it filled with water and the water leaks out
Personally? I would pack every square foot of the pond that will be under water.
Mainly for erosion (KS winds) and trying to keep that wave action from muddying up the water.
Secondary benefit of having structure for for crayfish.
I know it is expensive, but the pond is dry now and it'll be the best time to do it. I have a ton of money left over in my budget since I was able to get this dug for free. So I figured I would build it how I want it.
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