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#483305 11/29/17 08:22 AM
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Hello All - I’ve been lurking here for a bit as I prepare to build a half acre pond. It is located in NW AR where the soil is horrible , and per the NRCS guy, ponds in Benton County AR over 6’ have a 50/50 chance of holding water.......hence my hesitation thus far. I have however located some spectacular clay that is accessible close by and expect to use some 80 or so truckloads to use. We’ve selected the site that has some runoff.

My first (of many) is where can I go to get some pond bottom depth/despite depth ideas?
I don’t want to rush going too deep, and suppose I’d need/want shelves, trenches and varying depths. Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated. Ultimately it is for family fishing - I grew up in MS fishing Monster bass farm ponds and have have Read you can’t grow big bass in small shallow ponds but caught many-a lunkers out of the golf course 5’ deep ponds as a kid — so that’s in the back of my mind. wink. I have desires of a “beetle spin” pond to catch line ripping Coppernose (am I too far north for CBG?). Any thoughts or direction on where I could locate a pond bottom layout for ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks



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Last edited by jpws; 11/29/17 08:45 AM.

.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #483312 11/29/17 09:20 AM
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Instead of LMB in a .43 acre pond, you might consider some hybrid stripers. The problem with bass is spawning and over eating the forage


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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A hardy welcome to the PB forum.
The pond design is close enough to the house for aeration that will produce better overall water quality so I would consider a minimum of 8ft depth and better if it was 10ft that allows for droughts and low water conditions and leaks. Many pond's water level is 2-3ft below top bank thus 8ft leaves you with 5-6ft of water. A leaky pond is a distinct possibility if less than optimum soils and poor building methods are used. Proper soil/clay is utmost importance in your case. A leaky pond usually costs as much or more to fix as to originally build the pond. Study this thread on pond building and proper soil compaction:
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92487#Post92487
Many pond construction guys get is a hurry to finish and create too thick of soil lifts that are not properly compacted - thus leaks commonly occur. All soil bottom ponds leak, the degree of leakage is the big variable. There are also soil additives to reduce soil permeability pre and post pond building/filling.

A pond will accumulate sediments over the years to annually cause shallower depths, so plan for this to occur. Rate of fill in is dependent on water shed and fertility. Normal fill-in rate is 1" per year.

A smaller pond with a high fish biomass should have aeration to optimize water quality. Adding depth in poor deep soil structure can be done by using up-ground embankment design. Be aware without very good compaction, not a wide enough embankment, and poor building methods many of these ponds leak. Up-ground ponds have no runoff to help keep them full.

IMO not a lot needs to be done to create "shelves, trenches and varying depths". These structure features IMO are designed for larger ponds to concentrate fish and not necessarily increase productivity. The small golf course ponds lacked structure where you caught large fish. So structure in small ponds is not really needed to grow big fish.
However in a 0.3-0.5 ac pond where can the fish go that you cannot reach them by angling? If you are not catching them, something is remiss. Many, many reasons for lack of angling success. Increasing productivity and producing big fish in small ponds can be achieved with feeding the fish &/or fertilizing together with proper fish management. Lower fish numbers usually results in bigger fish because they have more food available. Crowding decreases available food and stessors due to crowding and water quality.

For a small pond with great angling excitement consider the suggested HSB with hyb bluegill (HBG) and pellet feeding. This stocking method allows for a years later relatively easy shift to LMB-BG combination. Since you are from AK and have close access, you should research the relatively new HBG called the SSS southern specklebelly sunfish. These with HSB and pellet feeding, would create a exciting fishery. By all means keep us updated on your pond progress using this thread which could be the history and notes of your pond.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 11/29/17 11:13 AM.

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i greatly appreciate the replies....my dirt guy has a D5 dozer and a big trackhoe....no sheeps foot. sounds like i may need to rent one?
I have my own small 50 horse Kubota tractor...i suppose that i could perhaps rent one and drag it after the dirt guys are done over and over and over again.
so based on my small size, are you saying it is senseless to worry with shelves, varying depths, and/or trenches...and instead just "dig a 8-10' hole"?

based on the "math", their intent is now to use 10" layer of clay.

Thanks


.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #483366 11/29/17 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted By: jpws
i greatly appreciate the replies....my dirt guy has a D5 dozer and a big trackhoe....no sheeps foot. sounds like i may need to rent one?
I have my own small 50 horse Kubota tractor...i suppose that i could perhaps rent one and drag it after the dirt guys are done over and over and over again.
so based on my small size, are you saying it is senseless to worry with shelves, varying depths, and/or trenches...and instead just "dig a 8-10' hole"?

based on the "math", their intent is now to use 10" layer of clay.

Thanks


I wish I had not renovated my pond without a roller. If it had cost $1,000 to rent and would have prevented the leaks, it would have been worth it. NOT AFTER construction, but DURING construction. Each one foot lift of clay needs to be individually rolled. I let my pond builder go ahead without one. They are hard to find around here, but with enough perseverance, it could be done. Please stop your dirt guy if he doesn't want to use a roller. Leaks are heartbreaking.

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Wait for more replies from other members to get 2nd & 3rd opinions. In a small 0.5 ac shallow pond the adding of "shelves, varying depths, and/or trenches" will serve what purpose? One shelf along one side at 4 to 5 ft deep loaded with numerous added artificial structure items will be IMO be all you need to concentrate fish for angling. Ideally the structure amount should in total be about 25%-30% of the total shoreline. I would put all the structure on one side or two sides or maybe wrap it around a corner. Ask contractor if he knows where to get discarded large broken concrete pieces that when placed along a shoreline as riprap (best down wind on wave washed shore), down to 3-4ft deep will serve as good structure items and shoreline stabilization.



Remember shallow water is where all your algae and weeds will grow to cause management issues. Weeds do not grow in deep water unless that water is shallow and/or very clear.

Once you allow for 3:1 slopes in a 0.5 ac pond there is not a lot of room in the bottom for a trench. Your soil structure may not allow for a trench with any depth greater than 1 ft below the main bottom area. Overall long term, in a 0.5 ac a flat or sloped bottom toward one end is likely the best design. A trench in the bottom may not get good circulation in it from an aerator. A shallow trench will serve as a collection settling basin for sediments and dead organics in the bottom. The trenches that I have seen in shallow ponds soon become filled with organic muck/slop. The trench will soon likely be filled with unconsolidated sediments especially if the pond gets tree leaf inputs. Soon the trench is no longer not much of a trench. The circulation currents will likely move over the top of the trench and leave the trench with low DO conditions which slows decomposition unless you put the diffuser in the trench. Even then good water circulation may not occur in the trench.


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good feedback - thanks.
i'll do 4-5' around the curved area....with a lined bottom on part of it with sand/pebbles out 20' or so from the edge then sloping to 8-10ft.

also in the open part of the "U", isolated from the main pond i will dig a 1' deep area isolated from water from the .5acre to make plantable with corn/millet for ducks/geese just for fun.

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pond 3.jpg

.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #483978 12/11/17 08:41 AM
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Game Day smile

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.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #483986 12/11/17 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted By: jpws
Game Day smile


Nice zero turn!

Yes I agree on the sheeps foot roller or packer. You can now get them remote controlled and run it your self.

Last edited by DonoBBD; 12/11/17 11:37 AM.

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7/8th of an acre, Perch only pond, Ontario, Canada.
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i dont have good clay buy they are trucking in 40 loads of clay that was dug out of a pond a mile away. it is like modeling clay literally...hope it works. unfortunately the pond is just shy of .5 acre but all i can do. it is 4-5' deep on the corners of the kidney bean shape and will be 8-10' on one half or so at the back of dam. I am clueless and would welcome any suggestions to what you see here with regard to slope, shape, depth, etc.
We will get a sheepsfoot and roll it in after putting the clay down.

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IMG_0402.jpg IMG_0404.jpg

.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #484124 12/14/17 12:02 PM
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The sheepsfoot has to roll/compact the clay WHILE they are putting it down, not after. Best to do only one layer, compact, another layer, compact and repeat.

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(perhaps this should now be in the FIsh Stocking thread?)

Well, the pond is in, but unfortunately water is not.
My pond holds about 4’ of water. Not sure if it is due to inadequate runoff ( which I know is not good) or a leak….or both.
Anyway, at this point I’m trying to make something out of nothing……so, am wondering with what I have it if is worth stocking with at least some BG of some sort for family entertainment (and/or other).
I have no intent on adding an aerator but do intend to feed the fish (suggestions?) and/or fertilize as necessary. The water size is roughly .33-.40 acres.

My ultimate goal for years was to have a place to catch bream on "beetle spins" with a few decent bass mixed in....but given the size/depth I'm uncertain.

Any suggestions on types and quantity of fish, or any other advise/direction would be greatly appreciated.

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.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #507765 06/19/19 01:28 PM
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Sorry to hear about the lack of water, wish I could offer you some of my watershed, I have a bit too much.

I assume 4 foot of water is deep enough in your area to sustain fish.

If you are ready to make lemonade and are looking to stay with a light budget, I would suggest getting some FHM's in there right away, then consider the traditional BG, CC, LMB mix for next year. But if stocking costs aren't too big of a concern...I have enjoyed my HBG and HSB (and RES) pond so far. Feeding would be more important in this case.


Fish on!,
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I have no concern about budget - want the best fishing I can have. I’m not much on CC, and if it’s mean more bass with NO CC I’d certainly rather that route. Also trying to understand why one would prefer hybrid bluegill vs straight bluegill. Also prepared to fertilize, feed etc. no idea what fertilizer I should start with and am reading about the many types and opinions of feed. Have a Feeder on the way.

Thanks


.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
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I've never fertilized my pond but I think you want something with high phosphorus (second number on the bag).

I do feed. Started with Gamefish Chow but moved to Aquamax 400. Higher protein. I also supplement that with black Soldier fly larva.


.10 surface acre pond, 10.5 foot deep. SW LA. The epitome of a mutt pond. BG, LMB, GSF, RES, BH, Warmouth, Longear Sunfish, Gambusia,Mud Minnows, Crappie, and now shiners!!...I subscribe!!
jpws #507811 06/20/19 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted By: jpws
Also trying to understand why one would prefer hybrid bluegill vs straight bluegill.


The difference between the BG/LMB route and the HBG/HSB route has to do with their reproduction and recruitment rates. BG and LMB will reproduce a lot more than the HBG and HSB. HBG typically reproduce with the majority of the first and second generation being males while the HSB very rarely reproduce in ponds. This lack of reproduction does not create as much forage (baby gills) and is typically accompanied by feeding pellets to make up for the lack of forage. The possibilities of overcrowding and stunting should be reduced and requires less culling in trying to maintain a good pond balance.

Here's a quick thread on my first years success with the HSB in the pond...

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=38025&Number=494998#Post494998

This route is set up for growing larger gills while the HSB are really just there to help keep the HBG's under control without adding recruitment on the predator's part. My thoughts are to allow the original stocked fish to grow without much competition so that they "can be all they can be" while culling out HBG offspring that get too big for the HSB to eat. It's still a chore sometimes, but much less of one when compared to culling BG and LMB. Here's a massive read on growing bigger BG which is a better fit for smaller pond when compared to trying to grow larger LMB...

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=189988#Post189988

I plan to cull HSB for table fare on occasion and ladder stock them as I go. As far a the original HBG...we'll see how well their individual sizes go and their overall populations to determine if ladder stocking is required.

I did not stock CC and merely bumped up my HSB numbers....

My 1/4 acre pond received 500 HBG, 42 HSB, and 90 Res. So far so good. It's been about 14 months and the pond records are HSB = 1.6 pounds, 14.5" long and HBG = 1/2 pound. I believe their growth is due to the large population of FHM's that was achieved the year prior to stocking the gamefish.


Fish on!,
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Thanks for the detail.
The HSB story is absolutely exciting!

A few questions as I get more impatient about stocking it...
1. Earlier you mentioned that you put the FHM in the year before. is that necessary, OR, can you put them in at the same time as initial stocking?
2. # of HBG - you mention 500. on all the fish farm webistes i've visited that is grossly over the suggested qty for .25 avres. in fact, on the Harrison website http://harrisonfishery.com/stockCalculator.htm it suggested only 63 HBG. I have no intent of adding CC - so, does the increase in HBG offset the removal/absence of CC?
3. and finally, did you add the HSB at the same time as HBG? the place i'm getting them from don't appear to have HSB. Should I relce with LMB, or nah....and how many if so?
4. I'm a fan of starting bigger - any drawbacks to starting with 3-5" BG ( or HBG)instead of 1-3"?
5. What about adding Redear?

A "truck" is near Thursday of this week https://www.stockmypond.com/product_category/fish?state=ar and just trying to figure out what i need (and/or) if i'm ready.

any other thoughts of suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks

Last edited by jpws; 06/20/19 09:34 AM.

.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
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Keep in mind that my pond has not unfolded yet, but thus far, I am very happy with it...

I believe that giving the first year solely to the FHM's was key to my initial success. The FHM population went from a 35$ dollar bag (3-1/2 pounds) of fish to potentially gazillions. These fish spawned and those YOY matured into adults and spawned again and again. With gamefish stocked at the same time...those YOY FHM's would have been prey. The following year, I stocked 2 to 5 inch HBG which could only prey on the YOY of that year for the most part. The 42 HSB could prey on them all. Now, this year the HSB are preying on the adults and the HBG are preying on the YOY and medium sizes. This approach has given me two great years of natural forage with a potential third good year. I am afraid that if the FHM's and the game fish were stocked at the same time, the second year would be lacking and the third might be inconsequential. This is my guess. Of course, my goal was to grow some BIG HBG not necessarily to catch fish sooner rather than later. Side note: my pellet feed bill is likely a lot less due to the FHM's being the main course.

More later...


Fish on!,
Noel
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Good to know on why you put the FHM in the year prior. I don't think i'm that patient. What'd be wrong with adding more FHM's later in the year....and/or more next year if the concern would be that the initial batch was all eaten?

ALso - regarding Food, how long does a 50lb bag of food last in 1/4 acre? i've no idea how much would be fed per feeding...as i've seen drastically different feeding programs (length of time for it to be consumed) and frequency.

So, is this realistic for stocking :
HBD - 250ea 3-5" (or more)
RES - 100ea 1-3" (or more)
FHM - 3LBS
- And best place to purchase the food?


Feed - what works best?
Aquamax 500 50lb?
Optimal BLuegill 40lb
Carfgill 40-10

Thoughts on the above?

The place i'm getting them from does not carry HSB - SO, i suppose it'd be wise to NOT sub those for LGM...and instead wait and locate HSB later...right?

Thanks

Last edited by jpws; 06/20/19 12:59 PM.

.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
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Originally Posted By: jpws
Good to know on why you put the FHM in the year prior. I don't think i'm that patient. What'd be wrong with adding more FHM's later in the year....and/or more next year if the concern would be that the initial batch was all eaten?


Give your forage minnows a summer to make babies. You can buy them forever at $10/lb, or you can put $50 worth in and let them make $1000 worth of new ones. That's not to say adding minnows later is a bad thing, but 10lbs of FHM tossed into a pond with predators will be gone before you know it. If you have a spot to build a forage pond you can grow your own for a constant supply.

I had originally planned to install RES and YP this spring at the same time my minnows went in. Due to weather and water conditions no RES or YP went in, but the minnows did. 45 days later there are literally clouds of minnow fry everywhere, with new clouds showing up about every ten days.

I'm thinking losing a growing season for the panfish will be more than made up in growth rates after they go in, and my spending on pellet feed will be minimal next year due to the ridiculous number of minnows that are in there.

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Originally Posted By: jpws
2. # of HBG - you mention 500. on all the fish farm webistes i've visited that is grossly over the suggested qty for .25 avres.


I abandoned all the fish farm recommendations that I contacted and stuck with the forum's suggestions. I think the the fish farms recommendations are geared for "one size fits all". I did run my plan by Kurt (Harrison) before buying my fish from him and he gave it his blessing once I told him my plans. AND, if you look at Harrison's Stocking Calculator, you will find that they are suggesting adding a lot more species to your pond. I merely substituted the BG number for HBG, CC for HSB, and tweaked from their.

Originally Posted By: jpws
4. I'm a fan of starting bigger - any drawbacks to starting with 3-5" BG ( or HBG)instead of 1-3"?


The only drawback that I can think of to starting bigger is that few farms feed to grow their fish and larger fish may actually be older fish that have missed a year of good growth. If you are goinf to forgo the year of FHM only, I would consider going with larger fish, but I assure you, that year (or season) of FHM's would make up for starting bigger. My HBG went in at 3-5" long and by the end of the summer the record was 6" long and weighed 0.28 pounds. The recent record is now just over 1/2 pound (14 months later).

Originally Posted By: jpws
5. What about adding Redear?


I would add redear (RES) to control snails which in turn reduces black spot disease (a parasite). I ended up adding 90 RES because Kurt gave me 40+ extra in fear that they might suffer the trip home in barrels. They did very well so I added them. My pond has ample snails and still has grub parasites.

One of my threads that lead me to the above advise...

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=37268&Number=486999#Post486999



Fish on!,
Noel
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Originally Posted By: jpws
So, is this realistic for stocking :
HBD - 250ea 3-5" (or more)
RES - 100ea 1-3" (or more)
FHM - 3LBS


I hesitate to advise on stocking numbers as my experience is very limited and it depends so much on all the variables. Your numbers look safe if your pellet feeding. The RES # may be excessive depending on your snail populations, but still safe (they eat other stuff).

Originally Posted By: jpws
- And best place to purchase the food?


I get my food straight from Optimal online, delivered to my door. No complaints at all.

Originally Posted By: jpws
The place i'm getting them from does not carry HSB - SO, i suppose it'd be wise to NOT sub those for LGM...and instead wait and locate HSB later...right?Thanks


I would source the HSB upon stocking the HBG. Those HBG will make babies the first summer and the YOY will need something (HSB) to keep their numbers in check. If you wait a year then you will want to stock larger HSB that can eat the larger second generation HBG. They are even harder to come by in a larger size.

LMB can and will take care of the YOY HBG and I would bet that they would run out of forage and overpopulate/stunt in a few years. This is not a bad thing if your goal is larger HBG, but the larger number of LMB would be taking up valuable capacity in your pond and you would miss out on that rare occasion when a HSB take your drag out and heads to the other side of the pond.


Fish on!,
Noel
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jpws Offline OP
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J
Joined: Nov 2017
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Awesome -its fun to learn more and more.
Ok - last thing,,,,for now. how much to feed, how frequent, and how long does a #50 bag of food last. DO you have feed or have timer set for X seconds?

And do i need "BLuegille pond feed" or "junior pond feed" from Optimal?

i got this feeder.
https://www.amazon.com/Wildgame-Innovations-Profile-Directional-Feeder/dp/B001RDXSXA


I have read that you feed only between 60-90 degrees?

Last edited by jpws; 06/20/19 02:30 PM.

.20 acre pond-that leaks/4-5' deep. Stocked 6/22/19 with 300 BG(supposed to be HBG, removed 100+/- so far), 100 RES, 3carp. On 8/20 added 300 HBG, + 21 5"HSB. 8/21 added 5 8" SMB, one 10" LMB , one 14" CC
jpws #507848 06/20/19 03:14 PM
Joined: Jun 2016
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A 50/50 mix of the Starter #4 and Junior was great for my 3-5" HBG the first year. The #4 was for the smaller of the stocked HBG. I have switched to Bluegill only now because it is slightly larger and better suits my HBG that are likely 5-7" now. So, what you choose has everything to do with the size of fish you are feeding.

Rule of thumb is to feed only the amount that the fish will consume in 15 minutes. I think opinions vary as I have heard as little as a few minutes and my fish seem to really take their time, up to 30 minutes, but 15 seems to be the most popular. I had to start by hand feeding as my re-purposed feeder would throw too much at first. Once the fish got into the habit, I started using the auto feeder and it still throws a bit much in my opinion.

I start hand feeding the fish in the spring about the time the water hits 60F, but they do not take to it right away so the amounts are much smaller. I have NOT witnessed my fish NOT eating due to higher water temps. Feed the fish if they will eat and stop feeding when the stop eating.

My auto feeder was throwing about a 1/3 pound last year once a day and I hand fed occasionally, even tried to auto feed in the morning for a month, give or take. I went through most of 80 pounds last year.


Fish on!,
Noel
jpws #507867 06/20/19 10:22 PM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,106
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B
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B
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,106
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Have you considered trying Soilfloc to get it to hold water better? Maybe you can do some work to your watershed to get better run off. That is what I plan to do.


Bob


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