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#477756 08/08/17 10:29 AM
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unplugged my aerator so I could mow the lawn and when I plugged it back in nothing happened. Opened it up and it was covered in a red orange powder. Was working fine yesterday. Any ideas on what i can do, I need it fixed as quick as possible.


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I would youtube your type of aerator and see if they have any videos on how to repair it? If it overheated if my be locked up tight and toast.... sorry to say. Hard to tell on this end. Does it hum or anything when you turn it on? You could have some brushes going bad. Unplug it again and take a hammer and hit it lightly on the side of it just tap it in a few spots. You may have a dead spot on your brushes and it may take right back off again if you can get it off the dead spot.

RC


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when i turn it on there is a very quiet hum. I don't understand what you mean by hitting it? I'll post a picture of it.

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Last edited by ThePondDragon; 08/08/17 11:09 AM. Reason: Added picture

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If you unplugged and it was working fine, then plugged it back in and it didn't do anything I wouldn't think overheat but thats just a thought.

Starters on engines do the same thing. You will get a spot on the motor where the brushes do not contact very well and you'll get a dead spot. When you tap on it the brushes will make contact and it will go again. We have to hit caterpillar starters from time to time. If they happen to stop on that spot they do it again.

Can you turn the motor by hand with it unplugged? Might be the first place I would start...see if you can turn it.

Maybe capacitor?? I've heard of them blowing...without the capacitor the motor won't be able to start and it will hum. The capacitor holds a good bit of juice for start up. When the motor trys to start, the capacitor unloads all that juice so the motor can start, then it begins running at normal amperage. Kind of like when you A/C in your house kicks on or your dryer and the lights dim for a second.


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Peach gets it. lol

Yeah just take a hammer and lightly rap it a few time on the metal housing to get the motor to kinda vibrate slash move a little from the tapping. You don't have to hit it real hard just a solid tap, tap, and then plug it back it and see if it takes off. Do this a few times as it could take a few taps for it to work. If it still don't kick in then you may have other issues then a simple dead brush spot.

RC

Last edited by RC51; 08/08/17 11:53 AM.

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When I hit it with a hammer i got it to work for 1 second and then it went back to quietly humming. Did this a few times with similar results, but it would not keep working for more than a second. When I plug it in there is a pop of it working then it stops.


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I called the company and they suggested that the magnets were stuck together. They said all I can do is repair it or return it and buy a new one.


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There isn't a blockage or water in the line? Have you tried to take the air lines off and run it without any pressure on it? Sounds like the motor may be done. But if there is to much back pressure it might run a second then start humming. Do you have a check valve on it? Maybe water siphoned into the line after you cut it off and the motor doesn't have enough torque to clear the lines.

Just some thoughts. Pull the lines off the pump and try it again. If that works, pull the diffusers up, turn it on then let them sink again.


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What kind of motor is it? In a typical electric motor the magnets are glued to the can (north and south on opposite sides) and do not move and could never get "stuck together". The brushes can wear out...or need to be adjusted...can't do that on all motors though. Normally when the brushes wear or get grooved (like a disc brake and rotor) you loose power and or the umph from the motor because the electricity can not move from the brush to the commuter.

Here are some pictures to try to describe it. You can see the magnets that do not move, and the brushes that ride on the commuter. After the brushes wear you loose that good contact between brush and commuter and the motor gets weak. Sometimes you get grooves on the commuter and it has to be cleaned or honed. Many motors anymore are throw away motors though.


How it works


The parts of a typical motor






I don't know if any of that helps or not. Just thought I would throw it out there.

Last edited by peachgrower; 08/08/17 02:15 PM.

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Peachgrower, it was disconnected when I was messing with it. The company told me that it was likely that the vibrator magnet and the electromagnet were stuck together. I don't know what that means but maybe someone does.


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Is that like a septic pump aerator? I was just looking. I guess its a diaphragm pump?? So I'm barking up the wrong tree with what all I was saying. That will act alot like a solenoid going in and out, working the diaphragm to pump air. I'm guessing thats what those coils are for on top of the pump?

EDIT...found it. Looks just like a Hiblow hp80 or so. There are many youtube videos on changing the diaphragms. I watched them and it looks as if you took the sides off and the diaphragms you can get to the spindle if thats what you call it that goes through the magnets. Maybe it has become dirty and is not able to move back and forth now. Still looking at stuff. Trying to find you a diagram for the motor part. It looks to be a very simple setup that shouldn't fail often. You said there was lots of dust. Maybe some electronic aerosol cleaner?? Maybe some dry lube or something on the moving parts.

Not any help, but trying to find you some information...its hot in the shop...lol.


Edit again:

You can get the elctromagnets online. I have attached links. The rod that goes through it is called a actuating rod. If it is seized up that would stop it from moving.

HP 80 parts

actuating rod/magnet

I would try to take the diaphragms off and move the rod back and forth and see if its binding. That may be why it starts then stops all the sudden. cleaning it all may help also.

Here is one of the youtube vids on taking the diaphragms apart. They do not get into the magnets, but you can see how it works once you get the diaphragms out. Pretty neat setup. Hope this helps.

Youtube vid of hiblow pump disassembly

Last edited by peachgrower; 08/08/17 04:15 PM.

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thanks peachgrower I will do that when I have time.


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I have discovered the problem. As you can see, the center plate with the screw is connected on one side when it should be in the middle. These parts are all strong magnets.

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Thanks for posting that Dragon, I'm assuming that is where the diaphragm sits?? Is that the plunger that pushes them in the picture??

What holds that plate in the middle? Seems it would have to have some kind of track or something?? Thanks for posting that. Keep the pics up if you don't mind...this will be a good repair thread for someone I'm sure!! I'm always up for learning how something works! lol Yeah, I read service manuals for fun. crazy


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The plate in the middle holds the diaphragm and moves parallel to the two metal boxes inside. As far as what holds it your guess is as good as mine.


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Going out on a limb here...found some more pics. Could one of the studs on the "actuator" or the plate in the middle have broken or come loose??? Looks like from the pics the diaphragms themselves hold the plate in the middle, then the magnets pull back and forth which pushes the two diaphragms. The two diaphragms will try to self center I would think. Maybe one of the diaphragms tore, making the plate loose and get pulled against the magnet? Or the nut that holds the diaphragms tight backed off??


The pics are a parts breakdown of a hiblow hp80, the actuator plate thing in the middle #18, and the diaphragms. I don't know if yours is a hp80, but just going by similarities in the pics. Maybe it will help.








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Took it apart and one of the center plate screws is bent causing the magnets to connect. This is beyond my skills to fix so I think I'll just return it and get a new one.


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May be easier in the long run. The screw couldn't be replaced or straightened? I found that middle plate for sale online for less than 50 dollars but if they'll make it right that would be the way to go.


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The orange dust is the magnet getting too close to the coils its iron oxide. It means the coils are going bad or it was rebuilt and the magnet didn't stay aligned. This typically only happens in Secoh units. Check for rubbing marks on the magnet.Most of the time the unit is no good if this happens.

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Thanks for bringing this back up, after rigorous cleaning and new diaphragms the aerator returned to normal(ish) working order. Figured I owned a completion to this story


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