Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Building a dam POND SYPHON SYSTEM

I AM BUILDING A 1.5 ACRE POND IN NE GEORGIA APPROX DEPTH IS 19FT. ALL THE DIFFERENT AGENCIES I HAVE HAD TO DEAL WITH HAVE SUGGESTED THAT I USE A 10IN.PVC SYPHON SYSTEM BUT HAVE NOT OFFERED ANY TYPE OF SCHEMATIC ON THIS RELATIVELY NEW SYSTEM HERE IN GEORGIA.

ANY INFO WOULD BE HELPFUL
THX AL

Check out Pond Dam Piping
http://www.ponddampiping.com/

Allan, ok here's the parts list for the siphon system which can be found at any decent hardware store. Depending on how much watershed you have 8" pipe would probably do and that would lower the cost quite a bit. You'll need three 45 degree angles, one 90 degree angle, a tee with bushing to 4" pipe, a cap all in 8" diameters. Then in 4" diameters you'll need one 90 degree, and a 45 degree angle. Then you'll need at least seven 20' sections of 8" pipe for a 19 foot deep pond and one 10' section of 4" pipe. 19 feet by the way is way too deep, the fish won't live that far down. 8 feet is plenty deep.
First dig your trench as deep as you want the highest crest of the water to be. One important step is the make sure the pipe is slightly angled down toward the back of the dam to promote water flow. On the back side of the dam install the 8" 45 degree so it angles down and then run some 8" pipe down to the very lowest point on the back side until it touches the bottom down there and then install the 90 degree angle so it points up.
Ok back in the pond, fix the pipe across the dam so the end on the pond side is just peeping out from the dam and check again to be sure that where the pipe is here is where you want the highest crest of the water to be. Once you've got all that situated, then install the 8" tee with it pointing upward. Make a short connector out of the 8" pipe and then connect a 45 degree pointing downward into the pond. Install a length of 8" pipe so that it extends to the deepest part of the pond and put the other 45 degree angle on so that it points out in to the pond. Now you should have some 8" pipe left over, use that to make the strainer that extends out into the pond. I've used a hole saw that fits in a drill to make holes no larger than 1.5" all along and around the pipe at the bottom of the pond. You'll need at least 6 feet of this homemade strainer with holes all up and down it and then put the 8" cap on the end. Now for the vent, connect the 90 degree 4" to the bushing on the tee and then using the 4" pipe extend it out as far as you want and use the 4" 45 degree to dip it into the pond. The further you put the 4" pipe into the pond the deeper it will suck it down to. Typically it shouldn't go any lower than the 8" pipe.
Yes I know it will be a pain to glue all those joints together and you'll want to have at least two people available to help you hammer them on. I have cut pipe that big with a chainsaw. It doesn't make a smooth edge but that is what the rasp is for. Use the rasp to take off any burs on the outside.
Just remember that the level of the tee determines the highest point of the water at any given time and the end of the vent determines the lowest point of the water after it finishes sucking.
If you stopped the vent up then the pond would drain completely. If you wanted to start the siphon but it's not currently running then you'll need another 8" and 4" cap to plug all the ends up and some other kind of fitting to apply a vacuum pump to suck all the air out, then stop that hole up and open the back end up and you have your water show again.
That's all there is to it. I've installed three of these systems myself and I give anesthesia for a living so if I can do it then I know you can.
If you have any question just e-mail me.
Nurseman out

Allan check out Easyway Plastics in Ga. there number is 1-877-387-5472 . They should have all the fittings for the siphon sytem as well as conventional standpipes, they been doing the pond fittings in plastic, (including siphons) for many years, alot of the contractors know how to get in touch with them. They should be more than competitive too.