I have a new farm pond I completed this year I filled it with my well water and a natural spring that feeds the pond from underground, I put 500 bluegill in my pond after it had been full for about a month, they seemed to do very well minus the few I lost the first three day, they've been in since June 2,2017 and seemed to have spawned twice, for the last week every morning I go out I find 1 to 3 dead fish, I have not put bass in or anything else for that matter, I'm going to attach or try to pics of the one I pulled this evening of him and his gills, I will also post the results in a bit of the water test, I'm at a loss water is clear and pond is aerated, what can I do to stop this!! I'm starting to panic a little
What do you mean squashed gills of still living but impacted, that's the thing I'm not seeing them before they die, I thought I seen one this morning, but he swam off however swimming was a bit weird like something was wrong.. do you have any ideas is there anymore test I can run?
I will say this the pics I posted represent all the gills they seem to all look this way when they die and this fish couldn't have been dead more than an hour, I mowed and checked when finished and came back out an hour later or less and he was there, so not dead long at all
Positive ID of organism needed. Most treatments are pricey and you do not want to invest in something is not going to work from the git go. If fish stock valuable enough, then I would send samples to a fish health specialist. You have the following that can give you more sound advice.
Robert Durborow, PhD Professor and State Extension Specialist for Aquaculture Aquaculture College of Agriculture, Food Science & Sustainable Systems Aquaculture Center Room MPB 112 400 East Main St. Frankfort, KY 40601 (502) 597-6581 robert.durborow@kysu.edu
Also, how low in the pond do you have your air stones?
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:" "She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
Based on calcium content and pH as determined initially there should be sufficient buffering capacity to prevent wide pH swings. That is assumes hardness is coupled to alkalinity as typical in most bodies of freshwater.
What would you consider to be a wide pH swing? (Just trying to put numbers to words is all.)
IMO 8.7 is to high. That's like African Cichlid PH. Your pushing almost 9ph... PH can hurt you both ways... to low or to high. I know some folks may get by with it around 8 or 8.2 but it only takes a couple of extra points to put it over the top.. couple that with other stresses like spawning and such and your in trouble.
Just saying, it may not be all of it but your PH is to high IMO.
RC
Last edited by RC51; 08/15/1709:30 AM.
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
I see you have the air stones a foot off the pond bottom from what you wrote.
How deep is the pond?
Do you know the water temperatures?
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:" "She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
Just to reiterate....Not saying this is your only issue just could be part of it.
Fish Symptoms
One of the most obvious signs that your pH is too high is that the fish are behaving unusually. Fish suffering from alkalosis (illness caused by high pH) will exhibit excessive excitement, swimming quickly and chaotically. Fins will be spread wide, and the gills may secrete mucus. The fish may also appear sluggish and their breathing may be labored.
Last edited by RC51; 08/15/1709:37 AM.
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
The commercial Lime I use is on the dolomitic end of scale and it appears to dissolve more slowly than the more calcitic ag lime available in the same area. When your pH gets high and swings a lot, then addition of the carbonates can bring the pH down and buffer swings but it will still be alkaline (>7).
The limes are all buffers that under typical real life settings are used to counter acidity. All buffers have the capacity to raise or lower pH depending on pre-existing pH of water they are added to.
So, if I understand this correctly, you prefer the lime with magnesium in it for high pH swings in ponds where the waters pre-existing pH is >7?
Is it the magnesium in that scenario that is more important than the calcium carbonate or does the magnesium just enhance the calcium carbonate effectiveness in that situation?
Magnesium (Mg) is the central ion of the chlorophyll molecule, thus magnesium could help create better plankton development by stimulating the production of chlorophyll?
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
Jeremy, sorry to hear about your fish dying. I hope the info ewest provided helps you out. And ewest, Thank you once again for the information on water quality. It's always good to refresh my thinking. It reminded me, I could use some gypsum in my pond water to raise the waters hardness from 45 to 100ppm.
Last edited by TGW1; 08/16/1705:54 AM.
Do not judge me by the politicians in my City, State or Federal Government.
.gif)
