Pond Boss Magazine
https://www.pondboss.com/images/userfiles/image/20130301193901_6_150by50orangewhyshouldsubscribejpeg.jpg
Advertisment
Newest Members
Shotgun01, Dan H, Stipker, LunkerHunt23, Jeanjules
18,451 Registered Users
Forum Statistics
Forums36
Topics40,899
Posts557,071
Members18,451
Most Online3,612
Jan 10th, 2023
Top Posters
esshup 28,411
ewest 21,474
Cecil Baird1 20,043
Bill Cody 15,110
Who's Online Now
17 members (Bob Lusk, LeighAnn, Shorthose, catscratch, Justin W, Requa, Freg, DenaTroyer, Blestfarmpond, Snipe, RAH, Rick O, bstone261, Theo Gallus, esshup, jpsdad, Bing), 775 guests, and 186 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 6 of 16 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 15 16
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
J
OP Offline
J
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
Added picture to previous post.

Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
That looks excellent.

Harbor freight has an adjustable receiver that might be handy for that application. I noticed the receiver is at the bottom, so for most level hitching you will likely have the 3pt raised fully.

Sometimes moving trailers and such short distances it is handy to be abale to back under the hitch, raise the trailer to above level, and move it a ways (to mow for example) without messing with the jack.

One of those adjustable hitches might be just the ticket. It has two pins to adjust the height. I don't think I would really trust one much for serious hauling behind a vehicle, but it should handle everything your size tractor will dish out.

Last edited by snrub; 02/26/17 02:46 PM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
J
OP Offline
J
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
I wonder if six 60 pound sandbags would be about the right weight? Combined with the box weight, that would be 492 pounds.

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 996
Likes: 57
T
Offline
T
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 996
Likes: 57
I needed some more weight on the front of my old 1969 IH2444 so I had some cut out of scrap at work(no FEL). Added 200#'s in addition to the cast iron weights up front. Put them on 9 years ago and it sure keeps the front end on the ground better.

Also had some cut to that fit the plow trays.




Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
The sand bags would sure be a cheap and easy thing to try. If they worked to suit you, keep them. If you feel you need more weight, keep your eye out for some scrap cast or someones unused tractor front weights. You can always use the sand elsewhere.

One thing that is handy is having a place on the tractor to store a chain. A 16-20' 5/16 gr70 chain is invaluable to have with you all the time (especially if you weld 2 grab hooks on your loader bucket as I suggested). Keep that in mind with your weight box and think about incorporating a chain box or rack back there too.

Last edited by snrub; 02/26/17 07:14 PM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 400
F
Offline
F
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 400
I always go in the house and ask the lady folk to come out and sit in the box. Weights it down pretty well.



Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
Why am I having a hard time believing that?

I'll answer my own question. Because you are still alive! grin


John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
I got one of these that I use in the receiver tube I welded to the back of my box blade.

adjustable receiver hitch

Notice how good we are at spending your money for you John? We got lots more suggestions! smile

Last edited by snrub; 02/26/17 07:29 PM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 184
P
Offline
P
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 184
I welded a ball on the box blade and back up to trailer and away we go

Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 1
Offline
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 1
Originally Posted By: snrub
The sand bags would sure be a cheap and easy thing to try. If they worked to suit you, keep them. If you feel you need more weight, keep your eye out for some scrap cast or someones unused tractor front weights. You can always use the sand elsewhere.

One thing that is handy is having a place on the tractor to store a chain. A 16-20' 5/16 gr70 chain is invaluable to have with you all the time (especially if you weld 2 grab hooks on your loader bucket as I suggested). Keep that in mind with your weight box and think about incorporating a chain box or rack back there too.


I use sand bags in my weight box and they have been ok. Very easy to remove as I often use the weight box to carry tools and other stuff I need for the job of the day. I will say there are occasionally times I wish I had more weight than the sand bags provide.

Snrub,

I thank you for reminding me about the grab hooks on the bucket! When I was growing up on the farm, my dad had those welded on every bucket and they were fantastic. I don't have a welder but next time my tractor is in the shop they will be installed!

I carry a 20 foot 1/4 inch chain on the tractor. I have a 3/8 in the garage if a big job comes along. Anything bigger than that is a waste for the HP I have available.

Last edited by Bill D.; 02/26/17 08:51 PM.

[Linked Image]
Be Brave Enough to Suck at Something New!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
S
Ambassador
Lunker
Offline
Ambassador
Lunker
S
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
I have to admit that I'm surprised at the number who utilize their three point to hold weight. Once fitting a loader, does the hitch simply go unused from that point on? Around here, tying up the three point with a weight box is virtually unheard of. Wheel weights, liquid in tires, and suitcase weights account for the majority of ballast.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
J
OP Offline
J
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
The owner manual specifies to use a heavy rear implement or weight box when using the loader in order to unload the front axle.

Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
We used them any time we were not using the tractor for something else on the rear for our two barn tractors that were used in our turkey grow out operation. But the loader was used daily to chore and the rear of the tractor was only used when we were either tilling liter or using a pull type house keeper to remove cake manure. So our weight boxes got used a lot.

When cleaning out barns, the longest one of four was 630 feet long but only 40 feet wide. If we used a weight box on the back for ballast with the 4 cylinder 4wd utility tractors we could turn around fully without backing up with the weight boxes on but with a rear blade run the high risk of hooking a metal truss along the wall when doing so. The weigh t boxes worked well for us.

I built both of those weight boxes and incorporated my own quick attach system. Our pull type housekeepers used the three point to set depth of the cutting edge and used a standard drawbar for the 3pt lower links that can be found in any farm store. I used these drawbars as the basis for a lower quick attach for the weight box so it was a matter of about 30 seconds to a minute to hook up or remove the weight box. Using a conventional 3pt hook up about once in 5 tries you might get it in a minute but the rest of the time you had to move the tractor around to get all the pins lined up. And we even had extendable lower links. So for us dropping or attaching the weight box was nothing and was done as needed.

Now I have a new boughten one for my JD 5083 that I have hardly used. I much prefer the box blade on the back because it is useful with the loader, yet is still fairly short coupled. But if doing lots of repetetive loader work, like when we were doing total cleanouts of the buildings or loading litter trucks to spread in the fields, the weight boxes were the much preferred method of additional rear ballast. And we had a full set of cast weights on the rear wheels (but no fluid - I did not know about winshield washer fluid then and did not want calcium chloride).

If you have a weak loader, weighting the wheels might be enough. The tractors we used, with an oversized bulk material bucket for liter or even a standard bucket with dirt, we had enough break away force to lift the rear end off the ground unless there was additional weight on the 3pt. The Deere 5000 series tractor manual listed three forms of additional rear ballast as acceptible and to meet the rear weight requirements of the loader at least two of the three were required to meet the weight requirement. We simply could not get enough rear ballast without something on the 3pt, and the weight boxes were the most effective in confined spaces. To have not used 3pt weight would have been not observing the operator manual requirements and based on some of your other posts I am sure you can appreciate the operator trying to operate the tractor according to mfg's requirements. The tractors, lifting to maximum heights loading trucks were really not safe without proper rear ballast. The weight boxes did not tend to accidentally run into things like bulkier rear attachments.

Weight boxes have their place. The nice thing about his size tractor, most of his size implements (including probably the weight box) can be man handled around a little to line up the pins. My JD 2520 was that size. When I went up to the JD 3038E, not so much. Stuff is just enough bigger I like a quick hitch on its 3pt. But quick hitches on cat. 1 tractors have their own set of glitches. I finally have all my implements quick hitch compatible, although I still hook the top link seperately. But that is a whole nuther story.






Last edited by snrub; 02/27/17 07:03 AM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
Originally Posted By: John F
The owner manual specifies to use a heavy rear implement or weight box when using the loader in order to unload the front axle.


Bingo.

Same thing in Deere manuals. The tractor is way more stable with rear hitch weight also if you are loading heavy material, and doubly so if you are lifting to maximum height on anything other than level ground or have to turn to dump.

More weight you get on the back the safer it will be and the better it will be on the front gears. Weight sticking out the rear, pound for pound, is more beneficial than rignt at the rear wheels. Leverage particularly makes a difference on a short wheel base tractors. Our 4 cylinder tractors (various 5000 series Deeres over the years) were much better in loading applications involving lifting to height than the 3 cylinder because of the 6" longer wheelbase. But they also were not as manuverable in the barns.

Last edited by snrub; 02/26/17 10:24 PM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 1
Offline
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 1
Originally Posted By: John F
The owner manual specifies to use a heavy rear implement or weight box when using the loader in order to unload the front axle.


+1 In my way of thinking, adding weight to the rear wheels improves traction but does nothing to unload the front axle as there is no fulcrum point with wheel weights.


[Linked Image]
Be Brave Enough to Suck at Something New!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
S
Ambassador
Lunker
Offline
Ambassador
Lunker
S
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
So what I'm hearing is that loaders are matched more to the prospective buyers eyeballs, rather than the capacity of the tractor to adequately handle them.

That does make sense now that I think about it, as similarly sized tractors from yesteryear featured much smaller buckets on their loaders. I'm used to adding weight for traction and stability, NOT as a teeter-totter off the back axle because the front axle is too marginal to get the job done. And instructing the owner to add three point weight, rather than just beef up the axle, appears shoddy at first, but then again we have become a society that takes everything literally.

"The manual states the bucket will carry 1500 lbs, and I'm not going to be satisfied with 1499!"

Never mind that the max weight was calculated on paper, under absolute perfect conditions.

I'm not in a production environment, so I don't think under utilizing the weight capacity of the loader will bother me any more than tier 4 emissions will. It's either that, or an older machine that's built heavier, and I'm over that.

Guess I'll just have to use a little horse sense, and pay attention to how I load the bucket. I'm not prepared to use my hitch as a hat rack at this stage, I need to have both front and back of whatever tractor I choose in play.

I do think following the manual is safest, especially if one is not used to a tractor. They will hurt you, be careful!


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
The weight might be an issue on the front axle, but I think when they refer to loading they are talking about the amount of horsepower being transferred through the front drive train. The components in the front drive train are much smaller than the rear end of the tractor. Thus if the rear wheels are providing very little traction the front end gears take the brunt of the power being used and shorten its life.

We have (I say we, actually my mechanics) been into the front end outter wheels twice on my FIL's JD970 (Yanmar). I think he has about 2500 hours on it. The gears are not very robust, but then it is only around 25 hp.

The reason for both times repair on his was not loading issues though. It was plastic baler twine issues. He has a pasture that is rented out but he has a very small Dearborn manure spreader that he likes to spread manure from the feeding area on the pastures. The neighbor does a lousy job of removing the plastic twine from the hay bales. FIL with very poor eyesight would spin the front wheels in the manure to get a bucket full, wrapping the twine around the wheel and streching it into the bearing seal area. Even if the outter area was cut off, the part that could not be seen eventually takes out the seal and that eventually leads to bearing failure. The first time we had brought the tractor to our shop for a much needed service job and caught it just in time. Oil was almost leaked out and outter bearing bad but new bearings fixed it. The next time it happened not so lucky. A bearing ball dropped down into the gears. It chipped a tooth about a quarter way off but some judisious use of a carbide bur and new bearings and he was going again. Had the ball broke a tooth off, broke upper shaft, or punched a hole in the casing the repair would not have been cheap.

So that is a warning to anyone with these front wheel drives on these small tractors. Don't let baler twine wrap around them as it destroys the seals (actually same goes for rear axles). Also, if you see a leak start for whatever reason, get it repaired. There is only a small amount of oil in these units and what might look like a small leak might mean it is close to running dry. Or at least check all the front end fluid levels more often if there appears a seep or leak.

Last edited by snrub; 02/27/17 07:29 AM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
S
Ambassador
Lunker
Offline
Ambassador
Lunker
S
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
Sad that the front axles aren't up to the tasks commonly associated with a loader. A good case for buying the next larger sized machine, and NOT loading it to capacity either.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 281
R
RAH Online Content
Lunker
Online Content
Lunker
R
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 281
My JD1070 has never needed work on the front end. Next size up from the 970. My loader is a Great Bend. Tried the JD loader, but it hit the exhaust.

Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
Originally Posted By: sprkplug
So what I'm hearing is that loaders are matched more to the prospective buyers eyeballs, rather than the capacity of the tractor to adequately handle them.

That does make sense now that I think about it, as similarly sized tractors from yesteryear featured much smaller buckets on their loaders. I'm used to adding weight for traction and stability, NOT as a teeter-totter off the back axle because the front axle is too marginal to get the job done. And instructing the owner to add three point weight, rather than just beef up the axle, appears shoddy at first, but then again we have become a society that takes everything literally.

"The manual states the bucket will carry 1500 lbs, and I'm not going to be satisfied with 1499!"

Never mind that the max weight was calculated on paper, under absolute perfect conditions.

I'm not in a production environment, so I don't think under utilizing the weight capacity of the loader will bother me any more than tier 4 emissions will. It's either that, or an older machine that's built heavier, and I'm over that.

Guess I'll just have to use a little horse sense, and pay attention to how I load the bucket. I'm not prepared to use my hitch as a hat rack at this stage, I need to have both front and back of whatever tractor I choose in play.

I do think following the manual is safest, especially if one is not used to a tractor. They will hurt you, be careful!


Your comments are well taken sprkplug, and if what you are used to using is older 2wd tractors, the new mfwd imports are significantly different. Miles better, in my opinion for a home owner, but definttely different.

Some things you may not have thought of. A 25 hp compact utility tractor is significantly lighter and shorter wheelbase than compared to a 1950's or 60's American tractor. That is both good and bad. The compact utilities drive and handle more like a lawn tractor than a farm tractor. They are exceptionally manuverable. All that for a home owner is good. But that short wheel base makes rear ballast more of a must.

Also a mfwd (mechanical front wheel drive in JD talk) will do just so much more than a 2wd that a person will not believe it till they use one. But......... when a person has the front end of the tractor somewhat pointed down while digging a hole, it is not so much the loader lift capacity that causes one to notice lack of rear ballast. It is the fact that while lifting with the bucket and going into reverse the little front wheels literally try to crawl underneath you. A 2wd will not do that. The rear wheels just spin. But the more weight transfer the bucket gives the front end wheels, the more traction they get, not less. So an under ballasted tractor will have the rear wheels off the ground (not a safe thing) in a hearbeat. 2wd can never do this. The rear wheels on a 2wd can only be lifted off the ground by whatever loader lift capacity there is. There is no front traction trying to drive the front end back underneath the loader. It is just unbelievable what the little mfwd tractors will do.

As far as bucket width, you are right in that most of them are marginally too big if a person is loading dirt or sand (heavy materials). They make these buckets shorter to compensate to lessen their capacity somewhat. But there is a very good reason to put that width bucket on the tractors. The bucket is usually designed to just cover the tread width of the wheels. This makes it very handy when trying to load something up beside a wall. Also, the front bucket is about ten times better at leveling by backdragging than a rear blade. Rear blades and box blades have their place, but I use the bucket 90% of the time when leveling fresh gravel by back dragging. By altering the angle of the bucket and down pressure an operator can get a baby butt smooth job. I have operated farm and construction equipment, both small and large for over 50 years, and I still can do much more from a smoothing standpoint with the loader bucket than a box blade and a regular blade is even worse to control. So that is the other reason for a wide bucket in relation to loader and tractor capacity. Having the bucket as wide as the tractor is very useful.

If you ever buy one of these small hydrostat mfwd utility tractors sprkplug, you will think you died and gone to heaven tractor wise. My FIL still has an 8n Ford and uses it to spread manure and a few things when 2 tractors are better than one. But you ought to have seen the grin on his face the first time he used it. And it only has a mechanical transmission and clutch. No hydrostst.

I relate my commercial and farm use on here hoping my experience and range of tractor use might useful for others, even if their tractors will never be exposed to that level of use. I started driving tractors on my dad's knee at the ripe age of 6 and was doing limited field work at 8 (B Jd and 8N Ford at the time). By 12 years of age I was a regular field hand when not in school. My first new tractor purchase was a 3020 JD Diesel at the age of 13 (purchased from savings earned doing field work for quite a few years) and had bought two new tractors and one used before graduating high school. I had employees (school buddies) by the time I was 16 and had my own custom hay baling business operated in the summers. I've lost track of how many tractors I've bought over the years but the smallest was a Bolens 15 hp Diesel (used inside the turkey barns tilling while turkeys were in the barn) and we have several now that exceed 500 hp. When my high school buddies were reading Hot Rod magazine in high school, I subscribed to Implement and Tractor, fudging a little on my occupation since it was an industry magazine with limited and controlled circulation. By the time I was 21 I owned a small farm equipment business, had mechanics hired, and was selling new tractors. Owned that business for 7 years while also farming, selling it when I had the chance to farm full time.

I don't want it to come across as bragging, although reflecting on it all I've really been blessed by the opportunities presented over the years. I guess my point is, I've had a pretty fair amount of experience with a range of sizes of tractors. Not sure how many off hand we have on the farm at this time, but something around a dozen.

Some guys like to see a big rack on a deer. Some want a trophy Bass on the wall. Some guys are classic car or Corvette guys. Some like Harleys. I really, really wanted a brand new Dodge F250 pickup with bucket seats in 1968. Instead I bought a 3020 JD Diesel and an old 1955 3/4 ton Chevy pickup that was my high school date car. Me???.......I'm a tractor guy.

I hope my experience can at times benefit others here on the forum.


Last edited by snrub; 02/27/17 08:34 AM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
Originally Posted By: Pat Williamson
I welded a ball on the box blade and back up to trailer and away we go


I just welded a plate and had a 2" ball on the back of my 4' box blade with my 2520 tractor. When I went up in size to a 5' box blade for the 3038 decided to get fancy and weld a receiver so I could change things if wanted. The reality is I rarely change the hitch out but the ability is there if I want to. That and a long receiver tube worked perfect to tie the three point hitch to the rear of the box blade structurally, so it was a natural fit.

But a ball hitch on the back for me lets me move trailers around that I otherwise might just be lazy and not unhook the blade. And I am extremely lazy because I even have a quick hitch, so hooking and unhooking is a breeze.

Last edited by snrub; 02/27/17 08:49 AM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
S
Ambassador
Lunker
Offline
Ambassador
Lunker
S
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
I can appreciate your experience snrub. Certainly where the newer stuff is concerned. Equipment, rather it be tractors, lawnmowers, chainsaws, whatever, is a great example of getting what you paid for, I believe. I'm hoping the 45-50 hp tractors I'm looking into are robust enough to handle their bucket. Stripping gears out of the front axle is not on my to do list.

I'm also a big fan of not using something to its capacity, certainly not all the time. If I find myself doing so, I've purchased the wrong machine, and need to go bigger.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
S
Offline
S
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 93
Farm and utility quality loaders are not really meant for continual hard use. But for a home owner or farmer with reasonable use and reasonable care can function for a long time.

Knowing what I know now, I would have owned an industrial loader of some type back when we owned and operated the turkey operation. We now have a Cat IT28 articulated loader and a JCB tractor loader backhoe. They make a farm loader look and act like a toy. I can do more with an 80 hp industrial loader than a farm tractor loader twice the size (and I have one with a CTV transmission). There is just no comparison to what they can do, and do without breaking, compared to a farm loader. And we own and have owned farm tractor loaders with hydraulic reversers and CVT transmissions, the best that farm tractors can be for loading. But an actual torque converter and a loader with twice the beef just dwarfs the farm tractors ability. The highest hour turkey barn tractor had over 5000 hours when we traded it with minimal breakdowns or down time, starting and operating 365 days a year. But it was a toy compared to our TLB.

I cut my teeth on 50's and 60's tractors growing up, and traded for a number of them while in the business. Worked on them too. So I'm no stranger to the older stuff (though it has been a while).

Last edited by snrub; 02/27/17 10:22 AM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
S
Ambassador
Lunker
Offline
Ambassador
Lunker
S
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
Agreed, I'm still not convinced I wouldn't be better served with a backhoe, rather than another tractor.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
J
OP Offline
J
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 19
I couldn't justify buying the next size larger tractor for what I will do with it: occasional dragging of brush, a motorized wheelbarrow for carrying rocks, dirt, and mulch. Also pulling a trailer around the place once in a while. General light duty maintenance. Plus, my shed is not very big and only has a 8 x 7 ft door.

Page 6 of 16 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 15 16

Link Copied to Clipboard
Today's Birthdays
Bob Lusk, GaryK, GrizzFan, PhotographerDave
Recent Posts
Brooder Shiners and Fry, What to do??
by Freg - 03/28/24 09:42 AM
Alum vs Bentonite/Lathanum for Phosphorus Removal?
by DenaTroyer - 03/28/24 09:38 AM
Happy Birthday Bob Lusk!!
by esshup - 03/28/24 08:45 AM
Relative weight charts in Excel ? Calculations?
by esshup - 03/28/24 08:36 AM
Dewatering bags seeded to form berms?
by Justin W - 03/28/24 08:19 AM
Reducing fish biomass
by FishinRod - 03/28/24 08:18 AM
New 2 acre pond stocking plan
by esshup - 03/27/24 06:05 PM
1 year after stocking question
by esshup - 03/27/24 06:02 PM
Questions and Feedback on SMB
by Donatello - 03/27/24 03:10 PM
Paper-shell crayfish and Japanese snails
by Bill Cody - 03/27/24 10:18 AM
2024 North Texas Optimal BG food Group Buy
by Dave Davidson1 - 03/27/24 08:15 AM
Freeze Danger? - Electric Diaphragm Pump
by esshup - 03/26/24 09:47 PM
Newly Uploaded Images
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
by Tbar, December 10
Deer at Theo's 2023
Deer at Theo's 2023
by Theo Gallus, November 13
Minnow identification
Minnow identification
by Mike Troyer, October 6
Sharing the Food
Sharing the Food
by FishinRod, September 9
Nice BGxRES
Nice BGxRES
by Theo Gallus, July 28
Snake Identification
Snake Identification
by Rangersedge, July 12

� 2014 POND BOSS INC. all rights reserved USA and Worldwide

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5