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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,058 Likes: 7
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,058 Likes: 7 |
Cray if you paint the end grain with high oil base paint you will cut back on the end checking too when drying. All my hardwood whole sales have the ends painted before steam drying. Each mill has a different end paint. There is a red end red Oak from a mill in Pennsylvania that I will never by from ever again. Junk grading and honeycombing from drying to fast.
The reason for the paint on the end grain is because you want the water from drying to come out the face grain. It will come out of the end grain much faster and over dry the ends.
Last edited by DonoBBD; 02/23/17 01:31 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 136
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 136 |
Cray, It's a small world, I had breakfast on that hi top table in your pic in Hahira last Saturday. It's the first time I've been in there since the fire and I remembered this post as I sat there admiring it. Great idea to fit the two slabs together in the middle, functional while you left some of the live edge intact. My "retirement home" is about 5 miles east of there. I will PM you about getting a couple of slabs from you.
2O2S
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 304
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OP
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 304 |
Cray if you paint the end grain with high oil base paint you will cut back on the end checking too when drying. All my hardwood whole sales have the ends painted before steam drying. Each mill has a different end paint. There is a red end red Oak from a mill in Pennsylvania that I will never by from ever again. Junk grading and honeycombing from drying to fast.
The reason for the paint on the end grain is because you want the water from drying to come out the face grain. It will come out of the end grain much faster and over dry the ends. I did paint the ends of a few. It did cut back on the small checks. But not the bigger ones.
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 304
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OP
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 304 |
It is a small world. It's easy to think that you are so removed from everyone online. But you could be talking with a neighbor without knowing.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315 |
The big cracks could be from the log having it before it was even milled into planks. Not much you can do about that. Also, when you cut thicker pieces it is harder to prevent splitting, warping, etc. due to the extra stress of thickness. Then add into the species, some are harder to dry than others. I think pecan would be one of those, as are most fruitwoods.
If you want to decrease the waste factor, I would move to a wax sealant.
Edit; also the pith in planks will crack it. Which means at lest one piece in every log will have it, even more if the tree isn't straight.
Last edited by fish n chips; 02/24/17 09:14 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,948 Likes: 9
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,948 Likes: 9 |
It is a small world. It's easy to think that you are so removed from everyone online. But you could be talking with a neighbor without knowing. I was talking to a member here that was a mile down the road from my families place and didn't realize it for several months.
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,058 Likes: 7
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,058 Likes: 7 |
Cray if you paint the end grain with high oil base paint you will cut back on the end checking too when drying. All my hardwood whole sales have the ends painted before steam drying. Each mill has a different end paint. There is a red end red Oak from a mill in Pennsylvania that I will never by from ever again. Junk grading and honeycombing from drying to fast.
The reason for the paint on the end grain is because you want the water from drying to come out the face grain. It will come out of the end grain much faster and over dry the ends. I did paint the ends of a few. It did cut back on the small checks. But not the bigger ones. The bigger ones come from the hart of the tree. There is nothing you can do when you get close to that.
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