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After seeing what one gets for the price, I am beginning to think I don't actually "need" a tractor. Maybe a ATV for hauling stuff to the pond and pulling my small trailer would be enough.

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If you're thinking atv, I would go with an rtv or utv instead...something with a dump bed rather than a machine to race around on. That may be all you need if you're not looking to mow, cut, till, or lift.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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No, not looking to race around at all. I don't care if the top speed is 15 MPH. Looking at some of my pond banks today, I think the D-R walk behind is safer. At least the D-R can't roll over on top of me. I need to mow the banks and the surrounding semi rough area about every three weeks in the growing season (. Hopefully, I will be able to handle it for a few more years. If I could get rid of several 3 inch high stumps, I could eventually cut it with a self propelled high wheel finish mower. The D-R mows at 4 inches and glides over them, but it's a rough cut. Total rough/semi rough area is just under an acre.

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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
... That may be all you need if you're not looking to mow, cut, till, or lift.


John,

Not my business but, as a friend, are you sure an ATV will really ease the burden of shoveling and hauling? I'm soon 61 and having that front end loader (FEL) on my little tractor is absolutely awesome when it comes to lifting. I moved 10 yds of stone last summer and never lifted a shovel or wheel barrow! I also put mulch around 200 trees, again, no shovel or wheel barrow. A tractor with a belly mower/finish mower would also allow you to eliminate the maintenance on your lawnmowers. My wife uses our little tractor like a golf cart as well whenever she wants to just run down to the pond.

Again, this is definitely none of my business.

Just my 1 cent.

Good Luck!

Last edited by Bill D.; 02/20/17 08:11 PM.

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Bill, No offense taken at all on my part. Your opinion is welcome.
I am three years older than you. Last week I moved a 12 ton load of creek rock with wheelbarrow, shovel, and rake. The decent small tractors cost as much as a good car. My brother in law has one of the small Kubotas with loader and belly mower, and he has maintained it well over the years. Seldom does he do a job with it when nothing breaks. He says it has cost him on average over $500 a year for parts, some years $3,000. I have helped fix it a number of times. It seems really fragile, like if something bad can happen it will. I spent the last few days looking, and have found nothing I truly want.

The ATV would be more for my wife. She has bad ankles and walking over the mole infested ground down to the ponds (1,000 feet of path) sometimes greatly pains her and she likes to go to the ponds. I could even get a small one as she's only 110 lbs. Maybe she'd like to ride a small tractor there and back.

I'm not totally giving up....sometimes good deals come along unexpectedly.

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That Kubota must be a lemon. I can count on my fingers the number of times I have had to fix my small JD over the last 27 years, and I have used it hard. That said, I understand how the tractor works and don't do things in a way that breaks things. I also do not lend it out except when it comes with an operator (me). I don't know your brother, but do you think he might be hard on equipment? Kubota's are known for reliability, and my friends that have compact versions have been very pleased.

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My only regret with my small Kubota is that I should have bought one with a cab with air and heat. My dealer says I bought one smaller than I need,( I think he is a saleman and wants me to buy another larger one). They come and get it for yearly service and he says I work that little one to hard lol I have had to replace one hydraulic connection that was leaking and that is it as far as repairs. I would suggest if u r shopping for a tractor, always buy the next size up, but I would stay away from the new California emission control system if possible. a friend has one and it seems to have some problems with it.


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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
I've turned (turning) enough wrenches, I'm ready to hop on the seat and get the job done, without working on any more stuff. I find myself buying new these days.


Tony, I have to admit I did a small fist pump when I read this. It was almost an emotional decision for me to start buying new, but I'm there now too. I knew I could and can fix most things here, but at what point are you just spinning wrenches? It's nice to just pull a rope, or turn a key to start my day.

Adequate HP, and a FEL would be a have to for me if purchasing a new or used tractor. Awful lot you can do around property with hay forks and a bucket.


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A JD 3032 with loader would be my vote for something that should last probably as long as he will be able to drive it without a lot of repair costs. I think the new ones now have a power train 5 year warrantee.

But that is about 15 grand if you find a dealer that has had one on the lot a while. Probably not within his budget.

My FIL bought a new JD 970 with loader and used some of his retirement funds to do so. This has been 10 or 15 years ago and he has enjoyed it immensely. He also thought he could not afford it, but after looking at 20 year old used stuff pretty beat up for almost as much money, he bit the bullet. He has had some repairs, some of which we have taken care of, but a lot of that was his lack of mechanical apptitude, a grandson driving it, and extremely poor eyesight. Had the tractor had an easier life I think the repairs would have been minimal.

If you can at all swing it John, get a 3032JD. That is almost identical to the 3038 you saw in my shed. They are price cometetive with most brands and parts or service if needed is available. You will not regret it every time you climb onto it.

Last edited by snrub; 02/21/17 07:59 AM.

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I have a JD, about 35 HP(don't remember model) with a FEL and 4WD. I seldom use it to plant anything. However, it is my ladder for trimming trees, hauling rocks/junk/firewood/deer and pig carcasses.

When I decided to upgrade from my Ford 8N, a local Rancher told me that a tractor without a FEL was half a tractor and that a FEL without 4wd was useless. I agree with that. I also believe that you ought to buy one size larger that you can possibly imagine ever needing.


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We have a DK45 cab kioti with loader. We have the industrial tire on it. These tires work the best if your not going to load the back tires and use it for cutting grass.

We cut about 2 acres of grass with a 6 foot finishing mower, blow snow with a 6 foot single auger blower, and rototill our garden plot that is about 6000 square feet each year. Have had it for 7 years now and only have 450 hours on her.

Its is hydro static so when it is cold it is not very responsive but after about 400 feet shes good to go in the winter.

Cab is great with the AC. No bugs, dirt, or dust all over you when cutting the grass. Don't get as nice of a sun tan as I did with the kobota.

4X4 helps in the winter and with the 6 foot loader its hard to get stuck. The loader is based off the bobcat quick attach so all the bobcat attachments will hook up.

Cheers Don.


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I would suggest a JD or Kubota in the 30-40 hp, 4x4 , and FEL. The advantage to a tractor is the will reduce your manual work, get things done way faster, open up many options that aren't available without one(left heavy items, digging dirt, tilling gardens, piling limbs, PTO generators, post hole digger,....) Another great thing is they really don't cost you much of anything since they hold value so well. Most MAJOR BRAND tractors you can buy and in 10 years they will bring about what you gave for them. If you could buy a good used one with low hours, I would strongly consider it.


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I found a brand new 2014 New Holland Boomer 24 with FEL for a decent price. Still thinking about it. Any opinions on that one?

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The 24 is going to weigh approx 2500 with loader, have a rear lift of 1400 and FEL actual lift guessing about 600 pounds. While a WHOLE lot better than no tractor, still light. If you jump to the 30-40HP range those #s go up 80-110%.


http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/008/1/3/8133-new-holland-boomer-24.html


I had a Kubota 3830 HST 4x4 would lift about 1000 actual weight with FEL and not sure on the rear.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/8/5/1852-kubota-l3830.html

Boomer 35

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/006/7/4/6745-new-holland-boomer-35.html


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I have a MX 5100 Kubota that does wonders at our 65 acre place..... but it has limits

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My trailer is 3500 pound GVW, 5x12 deck. I want to be able to transport the tractor if need be and the tractor itself stretches my retirement budget. (15k out the door)

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LS builds New Holland, and is usually a little cheaper for the same tractor. But don't know if you could find a 2014 model still in inventory.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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at $15k you have a lot of options.

Tractors are like ponds, you start out thinking you will get one for $ then you look up and you are at $$ or $$ or $$$$$. There will always be a bigger and better one just out of reach.


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You need to evaluate your needs for the tractor. What do you intend to use it for? What do you envision it's capabilities to be?

Personally, my opinion is to go no less than 40 hp, and 4000 lbs. Adding weight is fine, but adding hp is problematic once bought. You don't want to end up like a banty rooster, just scratching around on top of the ground without getting anything done. But, not all situations require the same tractor. What do you want to do with it?


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
You need to evaluate your needs for the tractor. What do you intend to use it for? What do you envision it's capabilities to be?

Personally, my opinion is to go no less than 40 hp, and 4000 lbs. Adding weight is fine, but adding hp is problematic once bought. You don't want to end up like a banty rooster, just scratching around on top of the ground without getting anything done. But, not all situations require the same tractor. What do you want to do with it?


Ya mean adding Nitrous isn't a viable option? grin


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Originally Posted By: esshup
Originally Posted By: sprkplug
You need to evaluate your needs for the tractor. What do you intend to use it for? What do you envision it's capabilities to be?

Personally, my opinion is to go no less than 40 hp, and 4000 lbs. Adding weight is fine, but adding hp is problematic once bought. You don't want to end up like a banty rooster, just scratching around on top of the ground without getting anything done. But, not all situations require the same tractor. What do you want to do with it?


Ya mean adding Nitrous isn't a viable option? grin



Diesel, bro.......probably be adding propane and more turbos!


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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I found a brand new Bobcat (made by Kioti) I've been very happy with it. It was by far the cheapest "new" tractor w loader I could find. It's still under warranty, etc.. I only get to the farm on weekends, and I'm not the most mechanical individual. I didn't want to be drinking around with the tractor all weekend, when I finally got up there. You can still get a Kioti, that would fit under your budget.
I do a lot of mowing with the brush hog, have made some trails through the woods using a box blade, and the loader. Hauled a lot of gravel also with the loader.
I did fill the rear tires with beet juice. It made a huge difference on stability with the loader full.
It's got four wheel drive, but that just means when I get it stuck, it's really stuck..


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I think that's about all I should put in my little pond.
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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
Originally Posted By: esshup
Originally Posted By: sprkplug
You need to evaluate your needs for the tractor. What do you intend to use it for? What do you envision it's capabilities to be?

Personally, my opinion is to go no less than 40 hp, and 4000 lbs. Adding weight is fine, but adding hp is problematic once bought. You don't want to end up like a banty rooster, just scratching around on top of the ground without getting anything done. But, not all situations require the same tractor. What do you want to do with it?


Ya mean adding Nitrous isn't a viable option? grin



Diesel, bro.......probably be adding propane and more turbos!


I agree, and adding a new injection pump and injectors. But, it's not only for gas motors. Here's what Gale Banks Engineering has to say:

Now that we have an overview of nitrous oxide injection on gasoline engines, let's consider nitrous oxide and the diesel, or more correctly, the turbo-diesel. To begin, a turbo-diesel has no air throttle. It is free to intake as much air as it can draw, or the turbochager can supply, on every intake stroke. Therefore, hot rodding the diesel is a matter of supplying the engine with as much fuel as can burned by the air available at maximum power. In fact, you can overfuel a diesel in the quest for power, but that results in excessive exhaust gas temperatures that will kill the turbocharger and the engine. It also results in black smoke from the exhaust (see "Why EGT is Important" elsewhere on this site).

Let's assume you've modified your turbo-diesel to the point that it is overfueled and belching black smoke under a full load. What can you do? One solution is to add nitrous oxide injection, but in this case, you would not add extra fuel because you're already too rich. Three things happen when you do this. First, the extra oxygen from the nitrous oxide leans out the mixture and the black smoke will be reduced or eliminated. Second, the excess fuel will now be burned for extra power. And third, exhaust temperatures will decline since less afterburning of fuel will occur in the exhaust manifold and the intercooling effect on the intake air will drop the exhaust temperature by a roughly equal amount.

When you think about it, adding nitrous oxide injection to a diesel is easier than adding it to a gas engine because you don't have to mess with adding extra fuel. In fact, there's no point in doing it unless you're already in an overfueled condition.

We've probably started something here that will quickly find its way into the pickup pulling power contests. If you've been to such a truck pull, you've seen the black smoke from overfueling. At Banks, we design our systems to increase engine airflow, and then we add fuel. Of course, if you go even further and intentionally overfuel a Banks power system, injecting some laughing gas just might bail you out before the pistons begin to melt and change holes.


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Add em' both! grin


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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