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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 179
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 179 |
Trent.....that YouTube video is exactly what I plan to do except rather than let the water run out at the bottom of the dam I plan to run the PVC pipe into a stock tank and control the flow with a ball float valve.
I think once the siphon is up and running it can be turned on and off at the stock tank as cattle drink water and the tank level fluctuates. If the siphon isn't broken by air getting into the pipe I think it can stay up and running for as long as necessary.
Also is very portable which I need as cattle are moved to different pastures. Trying to fence them out of the ponds I am managing. Thanks for the video link. BM61
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Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 21
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Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 21 |
Yes I don't see why that wouldn't work. I have left mine in for a couple of months at a time. I have had no problem stopping it and then restarting with just turning the valve off and on. As long as the pipe stays full of water the syphon will start right back up.
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 31
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OP
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 31 |
I bought all the needed supplies and am ready to siphon ... using 4" pipe. I have 4" thinwall, elbows, two tees, etc. Except ... shutoff valves for 4" pipe. Local stores did not have them.
I found two ball type 4" pvc shutoff valves at a local irrigation supply but they wanted over $100 each. Yikes. I presume I need one on each end otherwise when I pour the water in the top filler opening it would just run out on the drain side and run into the pond on the water side.
I'm trying to think of a cheaper alternative?
And, I bought a rubber cap secured by a hose clamp to put on the top tee after I fill. I'm hoping it won't get sucked in?
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 134 Likes: 5
Junior Member
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 134 Likes: 5 |
Bronco you can put the same type cap and hose clamp on the end of the pipe where it will discharge. Fill the pipe with water and cap off your filler pipe. Next pull off the end cap releasing the water all at once, this will create a vacuum in the pipe starting the siphon. If it fails to work this way you need a longer discharge pipe (more vacuum). Good luck!
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,346 Likes: 97
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
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Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,346 Likes: 97 |
A 3" Honda Trash pump will pump at least 300 gallons per minute. Here's some math that may be helpful. That pump, even with a 15' head, can move enough water to drop your pond 3 feet in 60 hours. I rented a 4" pump from a local rental company and dropped my 3/4 acre pond empty in a about 20 hours. I'd pump it, and get it done. But, that's me.
Teach a man to grow fish... He can teach to catch fish...
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,110 Likes: 478
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,110 Likes: 478 |
Also check with agricultural guys that irrigate. They often have large pumps that are idle and you can rent their services.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 31
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OP
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 31 |
I have a 2" trash pump rated for 168 gals/min. I'm not at the property long enough to run that for enough consecutive days and hours to succeed. If I was, that would be great, but unfortunately no. I need to start a siphon, then come back a few days later when it is hopefully done.
I am comfortable with my siphon setup except one issue. When I have the discharge capped, pouring water in the tee at the top, it seems it would run down the intake to the pond and just keep going. Won't the water level inside the pipe want to be the same level as the pond since I have the cap at the top open?
I can try this, but it seems I need a shutoff on the intake so I can fill that with water without it running out as fast as I put it in?
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424 Likes: 19
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424 Likes: 19 |
No, the output side needs to be lower than the level you wish to drain the pond to, and about double the length than the intake. Once you fill the output side, replace the top cap, remove the output cap, and the output water will suck water up from the pond to a point lower than the water level in the pond and start the siphon.
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 31
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OP
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 31 |
Great reply, thanks. Makes sense. Will try and report back!
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,099 Likes: 22
Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,099 Likes: 22 |
Be sure to put a 45* elbow pointing up on the outlet, so air cannot creep up the pipe and break the siphon....
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 5 |
All the same, which technique you went you must drain the lake if you can diminish the surface zones that will similarly lessen the misfortune because of dissipation.
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