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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979 Likes: 14
Ambassador Lunker
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Ambassador Lunker
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979 Likes: 14 |
Snrub, your play toy is probably more in line with what many here call a tractor.
I've got a rusty, unidentifiable, very heavy rotary cutter that I inherited with the property. Don't know who made it, but I've killed the engine on the 50 horse Ford while using it. Many times. No slip clutch, never sheared a pin, no damage. That thing is tough.
"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"
If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1) And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1) Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT? PB answer: It depends.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315 |
Snrub, I only have a shear pin brush hog, and my experience with it is exactly how you are portraying it. I have really liked it over the years. I am going to need a new one someday soon (it is a Woods mower that is about 45 years old), and I have always wondered if the slip clutch would be better. However after reading your experience with them I am leaning toward sticking with the shear pin. Sounds like the slip clutch is actually a lot of maintenance. I can jump of the tractor throw a new pin in and be working again within 5 to 10 minutes. How hard or how much time does it take to change the friction discs, and how much cost is that to pins?
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,093 Likes: 1
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,093 Likes: 1 |
If you are going with a 3pt hitch mower, some sort of flexible upper link is a plus. If the upper link of the 3pt is rigid, as the rear wheel moves up and down over terrain it has to lift the entire mower. If there is flexibility in the upper link, either through the tractor top link or the linkage going back to the mower, the rear wheel can follow ground contour and the lower links of the 3pt will keep the front of the mower at the proper level.
If you are planning on using a quick hitch attachment system, be advised that not all mowers will work properly with one. Without going into detail, the flexible upper link needs to be part of the mower hitch mechanism if you are going to use a quick hitch. I've had to do some modifications to various machines but finally have everything I use on my 3038E quick hitch friendly. Makes hookup a lot easier. The easier it is to change implements, the more likely you are to change them for small jobs. Or at least that is the way it works for me. i have a 3038e also with a quick hitch. the hydraulic top link makes it a totally different machine. i have never heard of a flexible toplink. i have heard of people using a chain instead of toplink, but there have been deaths because of it. the cutter has nothing to hold it down and supposedly can fly up and kill the operator.
Scott Hanners
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086 Likes: 93
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,086 Likes: 93 |
Some of the mowers have the top link flexibility in a U shaped bracket that is attached to the mower top link frame where it can pivot and the top link attaches to this. They work fine but will not hook up to a quick hitch. The ones that work with a quick hitch have the flexibility built in behind the A frame where the top link attaches, or in this case the upper attachment point for the quick hitch.
As I recall, on the Frontier (sold by Deere) 5' mower I have the flexible upper A frame was an attachment and did not come standard on the mower. It was part of a package that made the mower quick hitch compatible.
Oh, one other thing. A chain guard on the rear of the mower (usually an option) will reduce the hazard of the mower throwing projectiles that tend to break windshields or other important things. Some mowers offer them as an option for both front and rear. I have a chain guard on the rear (removed the back baffle plate to install it) but the front has a belting type shield to keep debris from being thrown up by the operator. The front shield was standard but the rear chain guard was an option.
John
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