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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3
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OP
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3 |
Hello All,
I've been lurking for a while and decided it was time to log in. This is a great forum but unfortunately if has me second guessing every step of the pond building project I'm planning.
I have runoff onto a low spot on my pasture and the cattle I'm about to put on the property will turn the area into a mud pit unless I fence it off or just go ahead a build a pond.
The pond will be approx 1.5 - 2 acres and I have a good friend that works in construction and told me he can arrange for the pond to be dug by a pond builder and the topsoil sold to entirely offset the cost. He stated that the pond builder could leave a large pile of soil and he would bring out a sifter and sell the clean topsoil to a local builder.
I told him that the pile of soil would need to be removed by year end but is this a relationship I want to create? What questions or concerns should I have? Please advise and thank you in advance.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842 |
Welcome to the forum.
Fence the pond to keep the cattle out, and put in an above ground tank for them to get water from.
When the pond is constructed, have them use a sheepsfoot roller to compact the whole pond bottom. A tracked vehicle (dozer or excavator) typically won't create enough compaction unless you have clay that you can make pots out of.
Slopes should be no steeper than 3:1, less if you plan on driving anything on them to mow.
Usual procedure is to have the sheepsfoot compact everything from bottom to top until it "walks out" of the soil, add a fresh 6"-8" layer of clay, repeat. Do that a minimum of 3 times to seal the pond. If the builder doesn't want to do that, ask them if they will come back on their dime and get it to hold water if it doesn't, and get it in writing.
Try and minimize the runoff from the cattle pasture to the pond. It will bring in nutrients to the pond that will grow a lot of underwater plants or algae.
Check with your counties NRCS agent on how deep the pond should be, and if any water control devices need to be added (emergency overflow, etc.)
Once you find out that info from the NRCS, talk to the pond digger and make sure he agrees to that info. If the NRCS says that the pond should be 12' deep, ask them what % of the pond should be that deep. Remember that they are talking from the current ground level down, not measured down from the top of any soil that comes out of the pond.
The dirt that is left for removal later, have it far enough from the pond that it won't wash into the pond, and determine where the stuff that is sifted out will end up.
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424 Likes: 19
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,424 Likes: 19 |
My pond is in nearly pottery quality clay and was only compacted with a dozer, and now leaks about 3/4 to 1 inch per day. If I was on PB back when it was renovated, I would have required better compaction, at least with a wheeled vehicle. The dirt guy thinks it will eventually seal, since it's been less than seven months since reaching close to full pool the first time last Nov. 18.
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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3
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OP
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3 |
John F, Since we are in the same area, do you recommend your pond builder? If so, please shoot me his info. I don't believe I'm going to go this route and will be looking for recommended dirt movers. Thank you
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