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Hi,
Can someone give me some ideas here? I have a hand-me-down row boat. Aluminum, has a couple colors of paint on it with the last color being green. You can see in the picture that most of the paint has flaked off.

The wood for the benches is weak, rotted. I think there was some styrofoam under the benches but most is gone.

Rivets are not the best but it doesn't leak.

I'd like to not put a lot of money in it as it sits in the woods and is my pond-maintenance vessel for checking on the aerator or any future jobs where I might need to be in the middle of the pond.

I'm fine with going back to bare aluminum. Is there a spray-on or brush-on paint stripper that won't etch the paint? Would sand blasting leave the aluminum surface scratched or blotchy?

For the benches I could try to find some remnant or warped composite lumber from a local big box store or maybe someone has an idea of some way to recycle some plastic and use that for seats?

Here is a picture I found that shows the outside and the inside of the boat. Most of the paint is gone on the inside, the outside and especially the bottom of the boat have big hunks of various color of paint in various stages of flaking off.


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Tin boats

canyoncreek, is that boat a semi V, or a flat bottom? Semi V's handle rear trolling motors, and flat bottoms can handle either front or back.

Last edited by FireIsHot; 04/21/16 10:24 AM.

AL

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Media blast, not sandblast. Try and find a place that soda blasts.

Paint over aluminum needs a special primer, or at least it used to (it's been awhile).

Plastic/composite needs supports no further apart than 16", for the seats, I'd stay with wood.

If the rivets start to leak, there is a special technique that is used to install those types of rivets. Google search for "installing buck rivets" or "installing solid rivets".

Same procedure is used to "tighten up" the rivets.


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I'm not sure the boat is worth bringing it away to do the media blasting. I have access to a sand blaster but if that isn't wise, then i'd probably research spray on paint strippers and see if I can do it myself. Otherwise a buffing wheel with a little coarse wheel (not wire) might get most of the paint off.

I don't plan to repaint, just use some aluminum polish, or acid wash or something to clean and brighten the aluminum. I know temporary as it will tarnish again.

It is a semi V, only trolling in the back.

Thanks for tip on plastic, I'll replace wood with wood.

No leaks on the bottom yet.

There is a great youtube video on a guy who used air conditioning coil cleaner concentrate on his pontoons and the results were amazing.

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See if you can use soda in the sandblaster. Sand will create a rougher surface which makes it perfect for applying paint as it gives the aluminum "tooth" for the paint to adhere to.

To strip the paint, see if you can get scotchbrite pads to attach to a power tool.


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Without doing all the hard work of complete sanding,primer and sealing...it is not going to make a whole lot of difference how you paint it.A nice paint job is 80% preparation and 20% actually painting. Why not sand off all the loose stuff. Clean it real well with paint prep and rattle can it with undercoating or bedliner. It would be tough and protected and not have to worry about so many inperfections. I do my own body work and have painted many show cars.Hope this helps.Just an idea for something quick and inexpensive.


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Flame,
Great idea. My original thought was to remove as much of the paint as possible from the outside (hopefully all...) and then just clean/brighten with some type of aluminum brightener like the AC coil cleaner or similar aluminum pontoon cleaner, then powerwash and leave as is. My idea was even a dull aluminum finish would be fine. I worried that like you said without proper surface prep, primer, sealer it would just flake again.

I thought since it sits outside in the woods that no paint would be better than half painted like it is now.

But you have a good idea, if I just used rattle can some bedliner or undercoating that would be pretty much once and done too. Do they make rattle can bedliner or undercoating in a color outside of black? Say brown, grey, dark green etc?

I assume the bed coating would still need a etching primer first (rattle can too?)

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After sanding off the loose stuff just go over the whole thing with 400-600 grit sandpaper to just "rough it up" enough to hold the undercoating.Then wipe it down with paint prep (I actually use rubbing alcohol),no need to primer. Just spray bedliner on and you are good to go. FOOTNOTE: Hard to get to places for sanding you can use Scotchguard pads. I like the Red. You can purchase it by the sheet at any auto parts. Send me a PM if you have any more questions. I will help if I can, Good luck. Let me know how it turns out.


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Flame, I remember years ago Zinc Chromate primer was used on aluminum to prep it for paint. That has changed now?


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Flame,
Any idea if i can get other colors of bedliner or undercoating (thinking budget here) besides black? I don't think my wife would like a black boat parked near the pond smile

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Yea, Zinc chromate is basically what we called galvanizing. I had a uncle who galvanized everything with brush on zinc chromate!!! I know you can get bedliner in tan but not sure of all the colors. A quick phone call to your auto parts or check on the internet.


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If your going to use water based paint, You can 50/50 vinegar/distilled water, wash the aluminum. It pickles it so as to hold the paint. A cheap man's Zinc chromate primer. If using Z.C. all you do is fog it on, not try to color the whole project. Dan

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Over the years I have cheaply purchased 3 aluminum jon boats with leaky rivets, and I easily fixed them by way of simply smearing some silicone sealer over the rivets, on the outside of the hull. This repair lasts for years, and will even stand up to dragging the boat across the ground.

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Originally Posted By: gully washer
Over the years I have cheaply purchased 3 aluminum jon boats with leaky rivets, and I easily fixed them by way of simply smearing some silicone sealer over the rivets, on the outside of the hull. This repair lasts for years, and will even stand up to dragging the boat across the ground.


GW...back in the day for leaky rivets, I used to take 2 hammers. Get someone to help you and hold one hammer head against one side of the rivet (as a back-up) and tap the other side of the rivet until it tightened it up....works pretty good. Of course, there's nothing wrong with silicon either.


...when in doubt...set the hook...

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