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#444531 04/19/16 11:00 AM
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Aeration answers needed please. Goal is to protect my fish from low DO numbers in the hot summer months in E. Texas.

#1. After requesting aeration plans from two companies, I understand the diffusers in number and size are determined by the volume of water in the pond. And the industry standard is to circulate the volume once per 24 hrs. So here in Texas this past summer my surface water temp hit 90. So would one run the diffusers 24 hrs or 12 hrs(run only midnight to 6am) I would think running 24hrs would heat all the water up and not what I would think one would want. And a 12 hr run will not circulate but half the pond volume. I have not asked this question to the two companies. Any opinions and or recommendations would be appreciated here.

#2. Water depths very in my pond from winter to summer. last summer my pond dropped approx. 18" and the two shallow areas of 1 acre each would change water depths from 7' to 5'. My plans are to run the diffusers in the summer only when the water might be much shallower. So would this reduce the number of diffusers necessary? I am thinking this is two acres of water reduced by 18" of volume might reduce diffuser numbers. But, if plans are to run only for 12 hrs, would you add more diffusers because of the 12 hr cycle?

#3. When looking at Vertex and Kasco diffusers which is easier to clean when needed.

Thanks

Tracy


Do not judge me by the politicians in my City, State or Federal Government.


Tracy
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1) If the quote that you received is for turning the volume of water over once per day, that would be in a 24 hr period. The idea is twofold - mix the water top to bottom to allow the fish to utilize the whole water column, and bring the O2 bearing water to the bottom of the pond to help minimize muck build up by ensuring that aerobic bacteria has good habitat to live in.

I have installed systems where the volume of water is turned over 2.5 times in a 24 hr period. I would consider once per 24 hr period a minimum.

2) No, that is an incorrect assumption. If anything, less pond depth would INCREASE the number of diffusers needed, depending on how the water volume in your pond changes.

See this chart:


See how the GPM changes with a reduction in depth?

If you plan on only running your diffusers 12 hr a day, make durn sure you tell that to the aeration expert that is doing the calculations for your pond. You don't want to spend the $$ and get a system that is incorrectly sized for how you plan on running the system.

Warmer water can hold less O2. BUT, in the summer you don't have a choice - the sun will warm the water up.

There is one way that I know how to keep the lower depths of the pond cool AND oxygenated, that is to put Point 4 micropore diffusers on the pond bottom, and run pure O2 to them. That will add O2 to the deeper, cooler water without mixing it with the upper, warmer water.

3) I only have experience with Vertex and Koender diffusers. Both take the same amount of labor to clean them.

If you want to ensure that your pond will not experience a summer kill, in addition to the bottom diffuser system, I would install two or three AquaMaster Volcano II surface agitators http://www.aquamasterfountains.com/volcano-ii-hydromax-series/volcano-ii for use during the hottest time of the summer. Run them at the very minimum from sundown to an hour after sunup.

A clients pond that was stocked with Trout, has a Vertex bottom diffuser aeration system that turns the pond over 2x in a 24 hr period, PLUS a Volcano II like is in the link, PLUS a waterfall that turns into a stream that has 13,000 gpm+ moving thru it during daytime hours.. That pond is 7/8 surface acre and 8' deep in the deepest part. At a water temp of 81°F from top to bottom, the O2 reading was at saturation level (7.7mg/L)and the trout were still alive. He ran both systems 24/7. The pond is highly eutrophic, and even with the bacteria using up O2, it was still at saturation levels.


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
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esshup, once again you jumped in to help out. Thanks for that.
I pretty much figured I would need the surface agitator like the one u posted here. My problem is the lack of elec @ the pond. I am truly concerned of a fish die off during the hot summer months in a fertilized pond, especially when it might hold some numbers of good fish. Looking back through this forum, George G along with the help of highflyer(Brian) put together a solar system surface aerator. looks like I am going to have to get elec to the pond or go solar, and the solar, I am leary of because of my lack of knowledge. I have learned, like always, there are no cheap hobbies. It cost money to get from here to there. And can be a lot of money smile

Tracy


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esshup, on the diagram you posted above, what is the difference between the XL2 and the XL2-S They both seem to do the same amount of water lifting?

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Tracy, I would bite the bullet and go grid electric vs. solar.

The equipment is much cheaper to buy, and I doubt that you will ever recoup your $$ in capitol costs vs. money spent for power. Plus having power there gives you more wiggle room in doing things, and what equipment will be available to you. Just make sure that you run a big enough wire. Running wire that is too small albet cheaper in the beginning, will cost you in the long run due to motors burning out quicker.

XL2-S is for shallow water applications i.e. 4'-8', XL2 is for deeper water, starting at 10'.

I have a question in to my contact at Vertex and I asked that same question. I will post the answer when I get it.

Last edited by esshup; 04/20/16 08:30 AM.

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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).

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