Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Property Projects & Construction Dock Building Questions

I have a roughly half acre dock that I completed last year and I would like to build a dock frame while it's still frozen this winter. I am planning to use galvanized poles with auger bit ends and drive them into the clay bank. What kind of spacing do I need on the poles? The dock isn't going to be real long (maybe 14') and I didn't know if I could get by with maybe 7' spacing or if I need them closer? Thank you!

Hope someone chimes in I am thinking of doing the same thing. How wide are you planning on going? I was looking at some other posts and it looks like most are 4 to 6 feet wide. Are you going with a floating dock or fixed? That will make a diffence on how you build it.

I would think spacing would be solely dependent upon the load bearing rating of the poles. You'll have to estimate the dock weight and maximum weight of people that may be on the dock.

CW
You didn't mention what size pipe you were going to drive in . Also how deep is the pond out at the end of dock. the deeper it is the more sway with smaller pipe

This is a very good book on dock building:

http://www.amazon.com/Dock-Manual-Designing-Building-Maintaining/dp/1580170986/

I referenced it when building our dock.

With pipe that's like inch and a half this is just me but I would go every 4 feet 6 foot tops. I would make my walkway 4 foot wide at least that keeps it simple just cut your 8 foot board in half. If your going to put a deck at the end I would go like 8 x 10 or 8x whatever. Make it a bit wider than tall. Think about it if your going to sit our on it with chairs and all you won't be sitting in front of each other you will be sitting side by side or fishing side by side so that's why I say make is wider then taller. My next dock with be 8 x 12. I would also make it fixed. I have a floating dock and IMO it don't compare to a fixed stable dock! Ok that's just my 2 cents.... take or leave it

RC

I think this response about garden hoses was to be posted in the thread on hoses? Can a mod move it or basslover can maybe delete or edit?

basslover I'll certainly look into these.

Also, I had to chuckle at the typo in the first post in this thread, I bet the Herman brothers probably have built one of these though...


"I have a roughly half acre dock"

Canyon I did too!! I thought to myself a half acre dock??? Dang it man how big is his pond!!!

RC

Sorry for the confusion. I have a half acre POND and looking to build a dock. I am going with a fixed dock instead of floating because my son is in a wheelchair and I need it solid for him. I was thinking making it 6' wide going out to an "L" or "T". The end portion would be 8' tall and maybe 12' wide? I would like to build in some seating and still have room for his chair. I would more than likely use 2" posts and it is about 10' deep at the end. Thanks again guys!

2" Galvanized pipe in 10' of water probably won't be rigid enough, there will be swaying unless you can cross brace it. You might get 4x4 tube steel but it's harder to drive

Thanks Pat. That was what I afraid of. I was hoping to get by with the piping I can buy at the local box store and auger into the clay. I don't know if I have a way to drive in 4x4 is my big problem. Like I said, I'm hoping to do it on the ice while it's in to make it easier.

I was originally thinking I would use 2" galvanized fence posts but would I be better off using something like a 2" galvanized schedule 40 pipe?

Schedule 40 is stiffer and will last a whole lot longer than fence posts. But, it will still sway in water over 6' deep if not cross braced.

Try augering it in, and try sticking a hose down the pipe without an auger on the end. The pipe might just slide down into the pond bottom as the flow of water washes away the dirt from under the pipe.

There are brackets specifically made to clamp on the pipe and have a 90° fitting for another horizontal pipe.

I have used brackets like these:


and brackets from Tommy Docks to build docks and both work well. http://secure.tommydocks.com/parts.asp?choice=parts&page=main

Thanks for the input! I do like the idea of flushing with water to drive them in. That sounds a hell of a lot easier than ratcheting!!! Would these cross braces needs to be below the water level I'm assuming? Sorry if these are stupid questions!!

Water won't help a lot in clay unless is washes out the cut clay from the auger..... The cross braces would be better a little ways down from the pier, you could add them after the ice thaws maybe. Sched 40 is the only way to go- the other is way to thin even to hold the weight of the pier wood.

Thank you all for your input. It is sounding like I will run sch 40 and will ratchet them into my clay with the auger bit attachment. Now I guess I'm back to my original question. What would you suggest for spacing on the sch 40 poles if I went 10' out from the bank and added a 8' tall portion at the end of the 10' walk? Thanks again!

They make a post that actually has a big round plate on the end of it and you don't drive it into the ground at all. It rests on top of the ground. The poles cant move cause they are bolted to the side of the dock with big clamps you can even ratchet the poles up and down as your water level goes up and down, and the walkway of the dock is then grounded at the shore. Course you have to have a fairly level spot to put this type of dock which I do.

They sell them at Fleet and Farm I just can't recall the name at the moment.

RC

Depends on what your using for the side? 2x6 or 2x8 or 2x10s? IMO if you used 2x8 or bigger you could go about 6 feet I think any farther and they may start to bow on you. 2x6 I would go 4 feet. That's just me though. They may not bow right away but after time and walking on them and standing on them you will start to see it. Kinda like when you setup 2x4s for firewood. If you space your bricks that are under the 2x4s to far apart it seems ok at first but all of a sudden you look one day and your 2x4s all have a big ole dip in them now... Not worth the trouble for 2 more pipes....


RC

Totally agree
2x10 would be the best

I was easily able to pound in 3 1/2" steel pipe, but I had to wait until it iced over. Just a thought. I cut the pipe at an angle so that it would drive easier. I would think that you could put 6 or 8 of these in and then use 2x10's for joists.

If you can get 3" pipe you won't prob have to cross brace, maybe

Have you looked at pilings? You can get a lot of mileage from pilings without the swaying of smaller diameter pipe.

Your profile doesn't say which state you're in, but it is likely you can find a piling source in your state. Here are a few;

http://www.americanpoleandtimber.com/poles-pilings/

http://www.gulfcoastpiling.com/wood-pilings.htm

http://www.americantimberandsteel.com/poles-pilings-pilings.html

I was planning to use at least 2x8, but it sounds like 2x10 might be the general consensus. The cost isn't much different so why not!! Thank you again for all of the help here!!!