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I'll get the same ones you sent me, garlic stuffed, and I'll send you some jerky in return, for your offer to do this.

But the 30 chews is pushing it!

Question is, will you be able to stomach the video? sick


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Originally Posted By: Lovnlivin
I'll get the same ones you sent me, garlic stuffed, and I'll send you some jerky in return, for your offer to do this.

But the 30 chews is pushing it!

Question is, will you be able to stomach the video? sick


Maybe we could cut it down to a solid 10 chews, but they would need to be substantial, like you are really into it. Obviously, has to go down the tube.

Listen guy's and gals, Keith really don't like Olives - at all!!

Had a thought for a mini fund raiser based on olives consumed, but that would just be too cruel.

I'm game!

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First off I want to apologize to RUMBLON for getting off-topic!

Regarding the olives, you won't see me "really into it", I'll be lucky just to choke them down without up-chucking on camera.

A fun challenge between you and I, Phil since initially you had me eating these while on Lake Michigan, which in that regard I think we're all lucky that didn't happen! So we'll leave it at that.

BTW, I figured if I got the jumbo olives only a few would fit in my very, very small hands grin


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Both my rotary vane compressors and my smaller piston driven compressors for winter use go into 2' X 2' X 2' plywood boxes with a vent installed opposite of each other for air flow.

Here is one:


Here is showing one of the smaller piston compressors I use for shallow winter aeration. The manifold system for the rotary compressor was left inside to be reconnected to the rotary compression in early summer.



This one shows the rotary vane just before removal for the winter. Must have got some snow inside somehow.




I've since made sure they were mouse proof as I had a mouse chew into the power cord connection of a pump last year which crossed some wires and cause an arc which ruined the compressor.



Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 01/13/16 07:57 PM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Hey Cecil, I believe I saw that cabinet! Although, I think that's a new lid?

It doesn't appear you have a fan(?), if not do you feel you get enough ventilation to keep the motor cool? (yet I also don't recall how long and/or how often you run it).


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Originally Posted By: Lovnlivin
Hey Cecil, I believe I saw that cabinet! Although, I think that's a new lid?


Probably saw it. I had two of them then and have three of them now. Lids are the same.

Originally Posted By: Lovnlivin
It doesn't appear you have a fan(?), if not do you feel you get enough ventilation to keep the motor cool? (yet I also don't recall how long and/or how often you run it).


Never had a fan and don't seem to have issues without one. I run mine 24/7 in the summer.

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 01/14/16 09:42 AM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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You don't need an accessory fan when the shelter is well ventilated so cooler air can come in near the floor and heat can escape near the roof or upper part of the cabinet - natural air flow & ventilation. It is in the more airtight, sound deadening cabinets were accessory fan become very important to cool the heat producing compressor. I've seen some cabinets get hot enough to melt the compressor's cord coating and compressor 'died'.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 01/14/16 10:00 AM.

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Here is my setup. It's worked great and was not very expensive at all. Keep in mind though I am in Arkansas and we don't really have any real harsh winters. It's worked great for me though. I now have a different pump in the house but still works just as good!

RC






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Originally Posted By: Bill D.
Here's what I did. I wanted a little storage space as well so it is bigger than need be. It's built elevated for ease of maintenance, to keep the pump up out of water (standing water can occur in this area of my property) and to keep critters from burrowing underneath to make homes. To insure good ventilation, the floor is constructed with spaces between each board and the side walls only go up as far as required to get under the eaves. BTW, you can buy small pump enclosures with ventilation fans built in. You can see an enclosure like that in my pics actually sitting inside the pump house.


Now this is fancy!


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Originally Posted By: JKB
Originally Posted By: RUMBLON
Ok, Im lost on what you guys are talking about. I will be running basically the same pump a GAST OR THOMAS that uses the same AMPS from a plugged in extension cord that will go to a 20 AMP circut breaker in a panel I have down by my pond. It will be the only item on this 20 AMP breaker. This is what is currently installed.

what kind of electrical breaker or device should I be using to help this motor? Is this something in my breaker panel or something on the other end of my extension cord in the small home i build for my pump?

eventually I will put an underground line but the area in questions will be ripped up for a home build so no underground lines at this time.



Dave


Need to know the EXACT motor name plate rating, then you could install a Class CC Fuse (be the least expensive) or an appropriate Circuit Breaker local to the motor installation.

I've never seen anyone here do device level protection on a homemade rig tho, they just buy a new motor when they smoke.

If LL had an appropriate circuit breaker on the compressor he posted in this thread, when it had a mechanical failure, most likely would have saved the motor. Compressor rebuild was in vain because the motor took a fatal hit.

Well, my motor says it's thermally protected, and that's fine for it's purpose when the motor get's too hot, but that won't stop the amps from killing it way before that thermal switch even wakes up.

In my gig, I have to do device/people level protection on everything I do, so maybe this is too much here as I am not in control of the outcome.


JKB, I prefer to do what ever is necessary to protect my investment, especially since I can install what ever breaker I need in my panel. Ok I had no idea what a "class cc" fuse is, but it appears it would not apply to my situation as all my stuff is modern and I will be running an extension cord to start from a 150 AMP panel.

So if Im correct in understanding then when I buy my pump and it arrives, I cant get the info needed from the motor plate and then use the appropriate breaker so that I wont destroy my pump? Meaning instead of using a basic 20 AMP breaker I would use the correct one for my pump. So if I take my motor to an electrical supply place who specializes in this, can they sell me the correct breaker?

Dave

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Dave,
When you get your compressor, take a pic of the motor name plate and PM it to me, or post it here and I'll tell you what to get.

It would be best to install this device local to the motor installation, secondary to the branch circuit protection from your main breaker box.

There are much higher standards for industrial control systems than for residential systems. You should see how some of the Control FREAKS rig up their houses and property.

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Or their elevators....


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
Or their elevators....


Yep! I can imagine. Some of these guys really get into it.

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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
You don't need an accessory fan when the shelter is well ventilated so cooler air can come in near the floor and heat can escape near the roof or upper part of the cabinet - natural air flow & ventilation. It is in the more airtight, sound deadening cabinets were accessory fan become very important to cool the heat producing compressor. I've seen some cabinets get hot enough to melt the compressor's cord coating and compressor 'died'.


If it was melting the wiring, they screwed up really bad in wiring in it the first place!

At least, get a Licensed Electrician with a VALID LICENSE to hook it up.

Sheesh!!! crazy

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Overheated pump was not my doing but one of 'those' fish farm aeration sellers. Melting was not in the motor wiring but clear back on the plug-in cord. Pump was not really in a cabinet but under one of those fake rocks with no ventilation. Sheesh is correct.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 01/14/16 09:21 PM.

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Never said it was your doing.

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Originally Posted By: JKB
Originally Posted By: sprkplug
Or their elevators....


Yep! I can imagine. Some of these guys really get into it.


You wouldn't be one of those guys would you? smile


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Only thing I did with my setup as it gets pretty dang hot here in Arkansas in summer time. I have plenty of vents and no fans, but in the pics above you don't see it, I went ahead and bought a 2 foot heater hose that you would use on your car and put that on first then I reattached the plastic you see in the pic to give myself a little more distance to the ponds edge. I had a lot of heat coming off the end of that pump and the heater hose worked great to absorb some of that heat! Just fyi for anyone that may need the info.

RC


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JKB, I too am interested in doing what I can to protect my pump.

Here's a shot of the tags on my Gast 75R. And sorry, but I have no idea what the draw is on the cooling fan (also 240v), but I'm guessing it's minimal.





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Keith,
That's pretty much the same motor I have on my 75R.

This is the CB I got for it: 4A CB

Keep in mind that my stuff will be mounted in a NEMA 4/12 electrical enclosure, including the compressor.

For your cooling fan, I just use AGC style fuses on those. Those are the 1/4 x 1-1/4 glass fuses. Usually, those fans are too small to use a CB with, and the glass fuses are cheap.

I'll dig out back because I have a bunch of fuse holders here I won't be using: Buss Class J You can use Class J fuses with motors.

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Thanks, Phil and I'll apologize now for sounding completely ignorant on this.

With my panel in the fish house being Square D/Homeline, I would be replacing the current breaker (30A I believe) with a 4A breaker similar to what you're referencing (Eaton)? And remember the pump and fan are 240v.

And the AGC style glass fuse would be "inline" so to speak to the fan? In other words I'm sending 4A from my panel, to the outlets in the compressor cabinet (one for the compressor, the other for the fan), then the plug/wire which goes to the fan would be intercepted by the Buss Class J you're referring to?

Or could I just wire an inline fuse [holder], similar to what's used in automotive applications at/near the fan?

Again, please forgive my ignorance as the most basic explanation can still be over my head with some of this stuff! crazy


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Originally Posted By: Lovnlivin
Thanks, Phil and I'll apologize now for sounding completely ignorant on this.

With my panel in the fish house being Square D/Homeline, I would be replacing the current breaker (30A I believe) with a 4A breaker similar to what you're referencing (Eaton)? And remember the pump and fan are 240v.

And the AGC style glass fuse would be "inline" so to speak to the fan? In other words I'm sending 4A from my panel, to the outlets in the compressor cabinet (one for the compressor, the other for the fan), then the plug/wire which goes to the fan would be intercepted by the Buss Class J you're referring to?

Or could I just wire an inline fuse [holder], similar to what's used in automotive applications at/near the fan?

Again, please forgive my ignorance as the most basic explanation can still be over my head with some of this stuff! crazy




Apology accepted. wink

I would just leave your main CB in the panel alone and don't fuss with it.

Device protection will be local in your compressor cabinet, secondary to the main power feed to the outlets.

That make any sense?

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Originally Posted By: JKB
Dave,
When you get your compressor, take a pic of the motor name plate and PM it to me, or post it here and I'll tell you what to get.

It would be best to install this device local to the motor installation, secondary to the branch circuit protection from your main breaker box.

There are much higher standards for industrial control systems than for residential systems. You should see how some of the Control FREAKS rig up their houses and property.


PUMP AERATION QUESTION

OK, JKB, I just got this, opened the box and snapped these pics. Im not sure which label you need but here are both and hopefully the damaged tag isnt missing what you need!

Im also very curious as the seller's ad says ready to plug in and it came with zero instructions. Now, I NEVER pretend to be what Im not and I can wire most circuits in a home but dont know what Im doing here.

Here are the tag pics and some pics of the pump. The pump is a Thomas.

I have more questions as well. The pump came with this plug which is not hooked up. 110 VOLT .The plug has typical wires in BLACK/ WHITE AND GREEN, the ground. However the pump has two wires, BLUE and BROWN and I dont see a place to ground it? So what colors of my plug do the BLUE and BROWN wires go to?

Im addition, there are two BLACK wires in a heavy plastic and the kit included this capacitor. I am assuming the wires go to the capacitor and dont think it matterS to which plug, but I want to make sure?

As far as the air is concerned, there are two exits and an entrance.

The kit came with this little plastic screw in thing???? What the heck, is this a filter? If so, this appears it will break easily? Is there a better filter to screw in that I can purchase?

My intentions are to come out of the pump into a manifold. I want two summer and two winter diffusers and will take all four off of that. That said, can I just block one of the exits on this pump without hurting it and go straight to my manifold?

Here are some pics and thanks for any help. This kit came with two ring diffusers as well but i purchased four vertex diffusers.















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Originally Posted By: RUMBLON
.....The kit came with this little plastic screw in thing???? What the heck, is this a filter? If so, this appears it will break easily? Is there a better filter to screw in that I can purchase?.....


Did you post a pic of this gizmo and I'm just missing picking it out of the pic?


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Originally Posted By: Bill D.
Originally Posted By: RUMBLON
.....The kit came with this little plastic screw in thing???? What the heck, is this a filter? If so, this appears it will break easily? Is there a better filter to screw in that I can purchase?.....


Did you post a pic of this gizmo and I'm just missing picking it out of the pic?


ITS kinda sticking out in the top pic but this will help




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