Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Tilapitopia 3.0

In that case, guess I'm stuck with "a scant 64th" for my detail work.

I like that approach

Precision, finally!!

Spent some time today transferring the media from the SS to storage barrels that seal up nice. Wanted to keep the rodents out because that would be just like one of those fun places to hang around.

Measuring fairly carefully, conservatively, just shy of 23 cubic feet. I can live with that

Gonna re-purpose the super sack because those dang things are tough. Anyway, sheet inside within a plastic bag said 24 cubic feet, and I only paid for 18.

Cost of ownership per cubic foot just went down

How did you measure cubic feet? 7.48 gallons of the stuff per cubic feet?

Used a relatively decent cu-ft measure, and that also equated to the gallon fill mark, but put a bit more in each storage barrel.

Anyway, I'm good with it!

At least it wasn't short. That has happened in the past.

So I have to ask, how many pounds of fish are you planning for? And how big is your bio-reactor going to be? I am estimating you will need +300 gallons for your reactor tank and can handle about 20 pounds of food per day with that much bio media. At .5 to 1% food vs fish weight, that is also a crapload of fish.

Brian,

Just got extra for down the road, should it go that way.

got it.

Only controversial when describing the bodily origin of such hair....

And its color

Compressors and heaters were delayed in shipping so won't be here for a few more days.

Well I have had a few days to read up on growing Tilapia (SRAC pubs) and now I think we are going to try for 83-85 degree water.

With the heaters, we are still making heat. They are making enough heat to raise the temp every day. But so far, the temps have only dropped into the 30 once or twice. So we will see. I do know the igloo was time well spent. It is doing its job well!!

Now we are adding more feed, I am going to see if this helps to get them to spawn!! Worse case, they will be big a healthy when we set them free in the spring.

The other lesson this year is that I want more batteries, and I think I am going 48 volts for the next install!!

Brian,
One thing I never asked is what your heater voltage is?

From what I have pieced together (may not have been paying attention that much and missed something) is the solar panels are in series generating higher voltage, then running thru a charge controller, topping off batteries at 24VDC, then burning the excess off during peak times thru the heaters and lights. Anywhere close?

After Christmas, I'm going to start buying pieces and parts for a 600 watt AC rig (with some DC as well). Got this bug in my bean about using the ABB (formerly Power One) Micro Inverters. They are a grid tied rig, but have some decent info on how to trick them into thinking they are grid tied.

Some issues with that as well, because if your generating more power than your eating, you need to push it someplace to burn it off to balance it out. That's where a resistive device like a heater would come in handy.

Anyway, a way's to go yet.

Our heaters are running 120vDC using the panels in series. Those heaters are not tied to the charge controller. l can run the excess power from the charge controller to a third heater if I wish, but that one would only be running 28 volts. So far we do not need the third heater.

Got it! I forgot you had that other rig

Browsing around today, I noticed the ABB micros came down in price a bit, actually seem like quite a bit from the last time I checked. Think it might just be best to start off with a 0.3Kw rig to get a feel for it. That way, if it sucks, I'm not out too much.

Yey!, they finally shipped a bunch of stuff I ordered last week. They had already created the FedEx shipping label and sent me an email that the order was complete and shipped, along with tracking. The guy sent me an email today explaining the snafu. Did the paperwork first then went to go pack it up and discovered they were out of inventory on a few things.

Now I can get some media started this weekend and install a couple of bulkheads in the fish tanks. Start getting stuff moving along.

Ever drive a 70 mile round trip to pick up pipe and fittings?

You thought you were careful when selecting from the bins, but when you got home, there was this one Odd Duck, which is a key player in what you wanted to do that day?

Go back tomorrow.

Arrrrgggggg........!!!

That is why I always get one or two extras of the thing I need, the extra is cheeper than the gas to get it.

Once bitten......

I usually buy bulk and had bags of the correct ones in my cart, but a Geritol moment took over the decision process (old age and why do you need all of these?) Would have been cheaper to get it as usual. Transition effects.

Ah, yes. The other reason I use to buy in bags is no darn stickers on the fittings where you apply the cement.

Hey Brian I received your message with questions about spawning tilapia. I apologize that I have not returned your call. We are all learning from your project, and I feel this thread is an appropriate place to discuss.

I think first of all, you would need to define your program. Back to basics...what are your goals? Looks to me like you have set up a RAS production system capable of overwintering. With your overwintering system, your goal could be to hold and grow fish produced from a prior season so that you may stock em in your lake when the time is right in the spring. With this program you may be able to produce and/or hold up to 1/2 lb of fish per gallon of water.

A tilapia hatchery spawning setup is intensive and involves few fish: only one stud male, several females. Normally the tilapia will spawn without any help or special nesting material. Give the females a place to hide, and they will find cover once they have a clutch of fertilized eggs to protect. A short 8-10" section of 4" PVC pipe, capped on one end, is a good tool. If you can determine that you have a female fish in the pipe, simply trap the female by capping the open end, and move her to a separate tank or flush the eggs from her mouth and hatch them in specialized hatching jars. If you have a side view of your fish, you can identify broody females by their bulging mouths, but if you have a top view then you can't see this. Once you have successful fry production then it's game on, starting with fry powder and working up to pellets. Fry survival is critical in the captive tilapia hatching game.

From my perspective, your setup is best suited for pond tilapia production through the spring/summer, then harvest and stock your indoor system in the fall, overwinter them, and stock em in your lake in the spring...

Not the same thing but I now always bring the fitting, hose section, bolt, nut etc. with me to the local Ace to make sure I get the correct corresponding part, or I invariably have to make a second trip! Eyeballing doesn't always work for me!

And people do put the wrong size back in bins especially at the hardware store!

I had that fitting in my hand and was intentionally going to purchase it, then realized that won't work correct and thought I put it back and grabbed the correct one. Guess not

Todd,

Thanks for the info. I get it.

The basic plan is to hold some fish over for the winter so we can restock the ponds in the spring.

Secondly, I would also like to spawn a group of fish for the grow-out ponds. So, I think it is time to set up the aquariums. We have two readily available and we did get fry powder to try this with. I have no idea if it will work or the numbers we might get, but learning is about to happen again!!!