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esshup #229404 08/02/10 08:31 PM
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Bill that's my catch all wine glass, it works great for catching crickets and Jap. beetles.

Cecil the fish seem healthy and I'm grinding up aquamax 600 and the Krill and feeding that to them.

Eric your welcome to use any of the photos, I figure the oldest ones hatched around June 20th.

Thanks TJ.

esshup I have some fry that are bigger than the biggest ones in the photo, so I would guess the 2 bigger ones are 4 weeks and the smaller ones 2 weeks old.



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AP,

Keep in mind the Aquamax 600 does not have the amount of protein the smaller sizes do, which fry need more of than larger fish. However if you're mixing in the krill you should be O.K.

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 08/03/10 05:58 AM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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So around 45 days old when the pic was taken?
















ewest #229499 08/03/10 12:07 PM
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So I guess that I am the only one here that is concerned that AP is putting fish in his Chardonnay.


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Yeah Eric I'm not sure, but the bigger PS's in the photo are not quite as big as some of the ones in my aquarium, so maybe 4 weeks old for them vs. 6 weeks for the biggest ones I have.

JHAP I drink my NY grown "Sweet Walter red wine" from a big coffee mug, wine glass is too small. grin



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Thanks !!
















ewest #237183 10/08/10 06:23 PM
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With the nights getting cold I brought my large PS's indoors to the 100gal. RAS, and have picked out the 12 largest offspring from about 300 that survived from the mini pond.
I've set up a 40gal. aquarium for the 12 PS's and hope to grow them to maturity by next summer and get them to breed.
Eventually this selective breeding might give me some jumbo PS, but like they say "It all depends". grin

At 3 1/2 months old a couple of the largest are 2 inches long.




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Nice looking fish AP!


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Cecil how big would a BG be at that age being raised like your BG?



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Originally Posted By: adirondack pond
Cecil how big would a BG be at that age being raised like your BG?


3 to 4 inches although I saw one that has to go 5 inches.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
Originally Posted By: adirondack pond
Cecil how big would a BG be at that age being raised like your BG?


3 to 4 inches although I saw one that has to go 5 inches.

HOLY COW Cecil, 5 inches in such a short time, do you get your feed from the W.W.E. whistle



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Originally Posted By: adirondack pond
Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
Originally Posted By: adirondack pond
Cecil how big would a BG be at that age being raised like your BG?


3 to 4 inches although I saw one that has to go 5 inches.

HOLY COW Cecil, 5 inches in such a short time, do you get your feed from the W.W.E. whistle


Well that was only one fish. He's called a "shooter" in the aquaculture business. I put him back hopefully to be re-seined when I am ready to move a few thousand into the house. He's one that needs to end up broodstock. Bruce did a nice job of selectively breeding his ancestors!

I've had a setback. One of my stock tanks leaks at the center drain. I had to remove the drain which consists of two toilet seat flanges bolted together back to back with the tank bottom sandwiched in between. Yes, that's right the center drain that is used for a stand pipe is nothing more than toilet seat flanges! I'd post pictures but I still don't have my computer back.

I will replace them with new ones and a gasket under each. Considering there was no gasket or even any kind of sealant it's amazing it didn't leak before. Just four bolts!

There was some rust under the inside flange and just enough space to allow water to drip out.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Cecil:

Hit it with a wire wheel in a drill to get the rust removed, then apply the anti-rust stuff that you have. After that cured, I'd put a thin coat of silicone caulk on both sides of the metal, then install the gasketed toilet flanges. Wait 24 hr before adding a lot of water, although you could mist the outside of the seal area with water for a faster cure of the silicone after the gaskets are in place.

That should take care of any future problems.


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Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1

Well that was only one fish. He's called a "shooter" in the aquaculture business. I put him back hopefully to be re-seined when I am ready to move a few thousand into the house. He's one that needs to end up broodstock.

I'm surprised you didn't keep that shooter and put him in a small tank so you don't take a chance on loosing him.

Is that leaking tank the one you used in your basement or a different one?



esshup #237276 10/09/10 09:20 PM
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Scot,

That's just what I plan on doing although I'm seriously considering just putting in a PVC floor drain instead of the flanges, and gluing in a 2 inch PVC pipe down to the floor across the floor and then up into a bulkhead fitting into the bottom of 55 gallon drum.(The clarifier) Correct me if I'm wrong but both water levels will stay the same right? Then the 55 gallon drum is filled with deer fence netting as before, and a pump on top of the netting pumps the water to the biofilter in a separate biofilter tank, which is a little higher than the fish tank. This then overflows into the fish tank via a pvc pipe to start the cycle again.

The reason I'm interesting in this is, if the mechanics are right, the circular tank will be self cleaning if I add another pump in the fish tank to cause a circular flow. Most likely that pump would have a dual purpose such as another filter and pump or an ultraviolet light and pump.

Of course there will be a drain on the bottom of the califier also to drain the clarifier when the netting is cleaned and there is a water change. Also a shut off valve in the PVC to the clarifier to cut off flow when the clarifier is drained.

Thoughts from Mr. Engineer?



Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 10/09/10 09:34 PM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Originally Posted By: adirondack pond

I'm surprised you didn't keep that shooter and put him in a small tank so you don't take a chance on loosing him.


He's better off staying in the pond and not being stressed until I am ready for him. I'll probably drain the pond after several seine passes so I shouldn't miss him. Hopefully there are more that size.

Originally Posted By: adirondack pond
Is that leaking tank the one you used in your basement or a different one?


No, it's the second stock tank I have which I am going to move the residents of the present stock tank into after I get it going. I will use the same biofilter though. And I will be adding the 5 to 7 inch YOY perch to that tank with the largest bluegills which are running 6 to 7 inches. Then I can dry and do some repairs on the first one, and it looks like I will have to. I see some rust spots popping through the epoxy.

Once I get the second tank up and running and cycled, in come the 3 to 4 inch bluegills and ~ 3 inch YOY perch in the same tank. A few thousand of each.


Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 10/10/10 09:26 AM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Cecil, yes, the water will seek the same level.

I've used this stuff to combat rust and it's worked pretty well. If the directions aren't followed, all bets are off. I've done it both ways and following the directions definately give you a better result long term.

http://www.por15.com/


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esshup #237305 10/10/10 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted By: esshup
Cecil, yes, the water will seek the same level.

I've used this stuff to combat rust and it's worked pretty well. If the directions aren't followed, all bets are off. I've done it both ways and following the directions definately give you a better result long term.

http://www.por15.com/


I was 99 percent sure about the water seeking it's own level, but always working in uncharted waters makes me still want to ask. wink

As far as the rust treatment it looks like the same stuff I have. BTW the only real gaskets I'm seeing for toilet flanges are the beeswax ones and I don't want to use them. I've got some sheet rubber around that will make my own out of. I may use RTV rubber with it instead of silicone. For some reason I'm not having the best of luck with silicone adhering to the metal for a long period of time.

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 10/10/10 09:46 AM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
Scot,

That's just what I plan on doing although I'm seriously considering just putting in a PVC floor drain instead of the flanges, and gluing in a 2 inch PVC pipe down to the floor across the floor and then up into a bulkhead fitting into the bottom of 55 gallon drum.(The clarifier) Correct me if I'm wrong but both water levels will stay the same right? Then the 55 gallon drum is filled with deer fence netting as before, and a pump on top of the netting pumps the water to the biofilter in a separate biofilter tank, which is a little higher than the fish tank. This then overflows into the fish tank via a pvc pipe to start the cycle again.

The reason I'm interesting in this is, if the mechanics are right, the circular tank will be self cleaning if I add another pump in the fish tank to cause a circular flow. Most likely that pump would have a dual purpose such as another filter and pump or an ultraviolet light and pump.

Of course there will be a drain on the bottom of the califier also to drain the clarifier when the netting is cleaned and there is a water change. Also a shut off valve in the PVC to the clarifier to cut off flow when the clarifier is drained.

Thoughts from Mr. Engineer?



Thats the way I would do it. Bottom tank drain to the bottom of the clarifier with a ball valve. I would also put in a tee at the bottom of the tank with a drain hose attached. I have 2" pvc shower drains. I like these because you can easily take the plumbing apart without having to install unions. They were only about 6 bucks at Menards. They fit through a 3-1/8" diameter hole and come with gaskets.

On the outflow of your biofilter, you could plumb some pvc to create your circular current. You may have to diffuse the flow of water back to your tank to get the right current speed.

If you need more solids filtration then you could side stream with another pump. I would rather put in another barrel with a bag filter for that. Up flow out of your clarifier and down flow into the bag filter. You then put the pump in this barrel. You could still also side stream if you really need it.

You could then run an inline uv system directly out of the pump. With the polished water, you will have fewer cleanings of the uv unit, and it will work better.

What specific goals would you want to achieve with UV? The pond units you see are generally for destroying algae, and may not destroy viruses etc...

Here is an interesting pdf from Aquafine: Aquafine UV

JKB #237315 10/10/10 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted By: JKB
Thats the way I would do it. Bottom tank drain to the bottom of the clarifier with a ball valve. I would also put in a tee at the bottom of the tank with a drain hose attached. I have 2" pvc shower drains. I like these because you can easily take the plumbing apart without having to install unions. They were only about 6 bucks at Menards. They fit through a 3-1/8" diameter hole and come with gaskets.


Only problem is the existing hole in the stock tank bottom is 4 inches in diameter. Maybe I can still find a large drain that will fit?

Originally Posted By: JKB
On the outflow of your biofilter, you could plumb some pvc to create your circular current. You may have to diffuse the flow of water back to your tank to get the right current speed.

If you need more solids filtration then you could side stream with another pump. I would rather put in another barrel with a bag filter for that. Up flow out of your clarifier and down flow into the bag filter. You then put the pump in this barrel. You could still also side stream if you really need it.

You could then run an inline uv system directly out of the pump. With the polished water, you will have fewer cleanings of the uv unit, and it will work better.

What specific goals would you want to achieve with UV? The pond units you see are generally for destroying algae, and may not destroy viruses etc...


I was thinking if I did go with UV of using a bulb powerful enough to kill bacteria, etc. I have a UV system minus the bulb for ponds that was given to me...?

Thanks for the info JKB!


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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My drain will consist of a toilet seat flange with the pipe insert cut off flush with the flange. This flange is on the inside while another flange is on the other side of tank with the insert pointed down to glue in the exit pipe.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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I would just try patch up the holes in the tank and start over.

As far as the UV unit you have, do you have a MFG and part number? It may be easy to look it up and see what it is , and determine what you can do with it.

I really should start hacking and whacking out a simple RAS for PB members. The new galvanized stock tank has been outside, full of water since early spring. It is under a canopy and no algae, or even skeeters took a shine to it. Reason for doing that is I am leaching out the Zinc, and corroding it a bit. Makes it a bit easier to scuff up and coat with epoxy. I know it is toxic, as my dog wont come near the water in the tank. I had a 30 gallon polypropylene barrel collecting water off the canopy not much more than 3 feet away, still out of direct sunlight. And it was full of Algae and all stages of skeeter development shocked

Not a perplexing issue to me, as I know what is taking place. But you can get some really "clean" flow characteristics, and suck out and contain the TSS (Total Suspended Solids), before they turn into TDS (Total Dissolved Solids).

I suppose, that is another chapter!

JKB #237335 10/10/10 06:05 PM
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Plastic tanks have their advantages, and their disadvantages.

Cecil, you could get 2 pieces of thick plexiglass and bolt them to the bottom of the tank (one outside and one inside) with gaskets between them to seal the bottom of the tank. Then drill a smaller hole thru them for the smaller fitting.


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JKB #237340 10/10/10 06:46 PM
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JKB,

I was going to go with 2 inch hose or PVC from the drain to the bulkhead in the bottom of the clarifier as VanGorder felt the 2 inch pipe worked the best for the u tube siphon. Is it as crucial with the drain and upflow to the clarifier?

I'm not crazy about what AES charges for a 2 inch bulkhead fitting! Maybe I can find a cheaper source on line?


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Originally Posted By: esshup
Plastic tanks have their advantages, and their disadvantages.

Cecil, you could get 2 pieces of thick plexiglass and bolt them to the bottom of the tank (one outside and one inside) with gaskets between them to seal the bottom of the tank. Then drill a smaller hole thru them for the smaller fitting.


Hmmm... that would work but I already have the fittings for the drain so...

I'm now waiting 24 hr for the rust killer to cure and then will coat that with the epoxy and wait another 24 to 36 hrs! Then I can install the drain and wait another 24 hrs. for the silicone to cure!

It will be a miracle when I finally get this second tank up and running! Oh, and I have to wait for a couple of bulkhead fittings from AES once I order them tomorrow. It seems like it takes at least 4 days to get anything from Florida!

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 10/10/10 09:33 PM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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