Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations My first aquaculture system

Hi everyone. I am a new user to Pondboss but I have been reading the forum and magazine for a while now. While I do not own a pond, I still find it interesting and hope to one day have my own pond to manage. Since that is not an option for me now, decided to build an aquaculture system instead. I don't have any specific goals in mind for this system; my main reason for building is just because it seems like it will be a fun endeavor.
I have been working on this system in my spare time for the past month or so, and I just finished it today. I am trying to use items I find laying around to help minimize costs. My basic setup is an IBC tote as the main fish tank, with three 30gal drums for my swirl filter, bio filter, and sump. Here is are a couple pictures of the overall setup. If you are wondering why the floor is wet, it is because I just got done making the spray bar and accidentally drained some water from the tank.


This picture shows the drain faucet I installed coming out of the fish tank. When making water changes, I will screw a garden hose on and just drain it out into the yard. I can also use this to fill buckets so I don't have to dip out of the tank and make a mess. Also in this picture the drain to the swirl filter can be seen. It is a shower drain that I attached to the bottom of drum. I then downsized the pipe to 1 inch and attached a ball valve to the end. This will be used to drain out the solids.


This is the swirl filter. I brought the pipe in through a uniseal and put a 90 on the end of it. An inch or so below the planned water level I have the exit pipe. First I had the pipe with holes drilled on the top and a cap on the end, but I noticed not enough water was entering, so I removed the cap and instead am using a 90 to control the outflow. Out the exiting uniseal I decided to connect a valve.


This is the bio filter. The inflow pipe cannot be seen in the picture, but it is just a pipe with a lot of holes drilled in it, and a screen on the end so no media gets sucked into the pipe. I am currently running two gallons of the Kaldnes K1 media. I am not sure if this is enough media, but I am guessing it will depend on the load of my tank. How many pounds of fish are recommended per gallon of this media? How many square I put in two air stones into this bio filter, which I hope will keep it circulating and provide adequate oxygenation. The outflow for this filter is located on the bottom, and attached to another valve.


My last tank is just a sump that I have my pump in. I am running an 800 gallon bilge pump. I read that bilge pumps are not optimal for this use, but I had it on hand so I decided to go with it. I have it running through an AC to DC converter. The water is pumped out through a hose, which I then attached to a piece of 1 inch pipe with holes drilled into it to make a spray bar. This shoots the water into the tank and forms bubbles, which I hope will help keep the dissolved oxygen levels up. This is also the stage that I am planning to add my heaters to.

The last and possible most important thing that I want to cover is the fish. My main goal would be to raise tilapia, because of their fast growth rate compared to native fish in my area. I did research on the legality of this, and raising tilapia in South Dakota is legal as long as they are not released into any waters, whether public or private. What I am more concerned about is where to sell them, and if it is legal for me to sell the fish. Do I just put an ad on Craigslist? What types of people are usually in the market? My other issue is temperature. As I said, I live in South Dakota. In the winter, its not uncommon to see -20F temps. My setup is located in a garage. We don't normally run the heater in this garage, but I could probably run it and keep the air temp around 50 degrees. Would it be possible for me to heat the water to temps that support tilapia, or would I be best off waiting until spring? Right now in the tank I have one walleye, one rock bass, one bluegill, and a few chubs and fatheads from the bait shop.


Lastly, I was wondering if there would be any added benefit of using some sort of filter padding like in this picture, or if the swirl filter will go a good enough job removing solids. For the past few weeks I was running a mini filter that I make with a 5 gallon bucket, and I had a few pads like this inside. It kept the water extremely clear, so I was wondering if maybe I should figure out some way to add something similar to this bigger system? The grey piece is gutter filter, and the smaller pink stuff is just some filter material I ordered from Amazon and cut down.

Thanks for taking the time to read. Feel free to offer me some input on how to improve my design, as I know that some members of this forum are very experienced at aquaculture. I will try to keep this thread updated as I continue on this project.

Looks awesome Derek. What I know about aquaculture wouldn't take up much space. There are some people here that can answer your question though. Good luck with it all.
And welcome to the forum

Cmm

Welcome aboard Derek. Managing 7 small scale RAS' at 5 locations (4 at 4 high schools) I'm a big fan of DIY small scale RAS.' It's fun yes but can also be stressful.

My systems are quite different than yours, but there are lots of ways to do this, and if you're like me you will make changes as you go.

Here is something out of AES/ Pentairs catalog that should help you with the amount of media material you will need.

URL=http://s11.photobucket.com/user/CecilBaird1/media/bee1ed73-fcc6-48df-b39c-889290c1e47e_zpsnyvopuwl.jpg.html][/URL]



Additionally you can get a media from Allied Aqua that is similar to Kaldnes but has more surface area and is cheaper.

http://alliedaqua.com/moving-bed-bio-media-by-the-cubic-foot.html


In case I missed it how do you plan on cycling your system: fishless or with some fish? I'm a big believer in fishless myself.

As far as heating your system I use a 1000 watt aquarium heater and controller for my 250 gallon systems because they are economical and do not run continuously.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Watt-Titanium-Aquarium-Heater-w-Controller-150-400-Gallons-Marine-Fresh-/231482300351?hash=item35e56b97bf:g:fBgAAOSwEeFU4g07


I would recommend insulating your tank with some form of water proof insulation around the outside and most of the top. Something like sheet foam or bubble wrap.

IMHO for best performance I would have your air come up from the center bottom of your mbbr tank. This will cause the media to boil up the center and go down the sides.

I prefer mag drive pumps for their efficiency and low cost. I use this one or a similar one on my 250 gallon systems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Danner-Mag-Drive-Supreme-7-700-GPH-Water-Pump-New-/151878870790?hash=item235cafa706:g:OZsAAOSw7hRWP3iw

Prefer a linear air pump for my air supply. Quiet and efficient. A Bluewater model ET60 that produces 60 lpm only uses 40 watts.

http://www.bluewaterpumps.com/air-pumps.php

Interesting project.......what are you going to try and raise?

FWIW, You really should get that particle board painted before the moisture/humidity damages it.

Tbar you might be surprised. I have two tanks in the back of my basement in a log home (wood foundation) with no issues. In fact it's a plus in winter and helps with the dry air.

Derek,

Welcome!!

First off, congratulations for having the drive to get started. Now learn, learn, learn. I have done most everything you have done, and I have done everything wrong you are about to do. That said, It is fun learning, but the panic side of it can be a little unnerving.

I have two threads from last year and this year showing my attempts. Last year was panic on a grand scale. This year, we have done a better job getting ready for our winters and they are nothing like what you are going to see. Depending on the type of Tilapia you are allowed to use, you are going to have heat issues. My goal for our Mozambique Tilapia is 80 degrees F plus or minus. I know I will be okay down to 65 degrees F, but I am taking no chances. I have solar power and shore power available running half of the system.

About selling them, there are a lot of hoops to jump through, I would raise them for your own consumption, it just easier. After you get established, think about selling some if you would like.

Also look at RDF filters, they are easy to make and better than settling tank. You Tube is your friend.


About Media, Cecil gave you the gouge. I would go with his recommendation. Most of the time it is talked about in cubic feet not gallons.

Last item for now, Learn about AIRLIFT to move your water (again, You Tube is your friend). With one air pump like Cecil showed you, you can move all of your water and keep your MBBR happy with some air to spare.

Hope this helps.

I was planning on just putting a whole bunch of fatheads into the system, but I hadn't really considered fishless. What are the advantages of fishless? Would it be doable for a newbie like myself?


I have seen that some people recommend using two lower wattage heaters rather than one big one, so if there is a malfunction with one there is still another heater left running. Would two 300W aquarium heaters work for me? I found this heater on amazon that I thought I would go with. http://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-S...aquarium+heater If I insulate the system well, how many degrees above the outside temperature will I be able to keep the water?

I plan on ordering the filter media you suggested - between the price and surface area its my best option by far. Thanks again for taking the time to offer your input.

My original plan was to raise tilapia, but I have also been throwing around the option of raising golden shiners to use for pike bait. Only one bait shop in my area carries anything other than fatheads, and their biggest chubs are only four inches or so. Depending on the growth rate of GSH, would it be doable to grow them up to around six inches? I know there is a demand for bigger baits in my area and I wouldn't have any problems finding people to sell my excess GSH to.

From what I understand, the blue tilapia are the most cold resistant? They can survive temps down into the 50s, but what temperature would I need to maintain to keep them eating and growing?


I almost went with the radial flow filter over my swirl filter while designing my system, but I decided not to. How big of a difference would me upgrading to a RDF make? Would I be able to just modify the drum I already have set up for a swirl filter, or would I need to start from scratch?



I had not considered an airlift before you mentioned it. From what I was able to find, it does the same thing as a regular pump, except it oxygenates the water at the same time. Are there any other advantages to using an airlift?

Thanks again for taking the time to respond. I have actually already read the threads you mentioned, and there were extremely helpful to me while making my system. I might go back through and reread, since they might make more sense to me now that I have went through the building process.

Fishless cycling simply consists of adding sudsless ammonia (about 4 ppm) initially to get some bacteria going and the ammonia is something to feed it. Keep the ammonia at about 4 ppm until you read nitrites, and once you see nitrates, and your ammonia and nitrites quickly drop to zero you are ready to add fish. An alternative to the ammonia is some fish feed that has been made into a soupy mix. Advantages of fishless cycling are not bringing in parasites or disease with fish that are notorius for issues like fathead minnows or goldfish. It's also not needlessly stressing or killing fish which I am strongly against.

As far as what size heater to get, i would go with the 1000 watt or two 500s for a 250 gallon system. 300 watts is not enough and it will be contantly sucking juice. Insulate well!

Here's a great read on nitrification and cycling. Geared to aquariums but still applies.
http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html

In case you're not familiar with the following test kits they work great and don't cost much.

http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Mas...+kit+freshwater

I had some time last night and I was able to get some work done on the setup. I decided to add another filter to help remove the smaller solids.


I took a 5 gallon bucket and put a drain in the bottom, as well as an overflow drain towards the top. I plumbed them together and have the outflow going into the IBC. At the top, I shortened up my spray bar and drilled more holes, and it is evenly spreading the water over the filter pads. Inside, I am using some gutter filter that I picked up at Menards. When wrapped up, it fits perfectly inside. I also have one of the white and pink filter pads like the picture in my first post. Within 24 hours the water cleared up considerably.


I also received in the mail a 300W heater that I ordered a while back. It is keeping the water about 4-5 degrees above the air temp (53 degrees in the garage and between 57 and 58 in the water). I think I am going to go with Cecil's recommendation and order a 500W heater in addition to the one I am running now. This is the heater I plan on ordering. http://www.amazon.com/SUN-JRB-250-SunSun...aquarium+heater

I am also going to order a water test kit so I can keep track of the water as it cycles. In regards to the cycling of the water, I have been doing some research and I think I am going to go fishless. What water temperature should I aim for while cycling the tank? I have read that the bacteria will not grow in cold water, so I was thinking I would aim for high 60s or low 70s Fahrenheit. I am hoping to get the tanks insulated this weekend to help bring up the temps. Will bubble wrap be a good enough insulator, or should I try to get some of the sheet foam?

Bacteria will grow in cold water down to 32 F. but much more slowly than warmer temps. Optimum temps are in the link I posted in this thread.

http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html

Can't tell you which would be the best insulator. Perhaps someone else can. You will lose most of your heat from the top of your vessels so cover the tops in addition to the sides.

I know I'm repeating myself, but If you use ammonia for cycling be sure it doesn't sudz when you shake it. If it does that means it has detergent added and you don't want to use that. I got mine from Ace hardware.

I hope 800 watts is enough. I'm skeptical in your garage with your winter temps unless you build a frame and plastic and/or foam sheeting to isolate the system from the rest of the garage to create a microclimate.

And remember if you try and skimp on heater wattage you may end up using more energy as it will have to run more.

The heater in your link seems very cheap for a quality 500 watt heater. I see you can set the temp but I prefer one with an actual controller.

I use this one for all my school systems:

http://www.amazon.com/Catalina-RF-1000T-...aquarium+heater

Derek,

Cecil uses good stuff for a reason, it works the first time. Look for best value, it will save you money and time down the road.

About filtration, more is better to a point, but try to keep it simple. It will work better and be easier to maintain if you keep it simple.

Look at the RDF filters on youtube. They are very simple and very effective. And most of all, they would simplify your system.

Sorry I haven't gotten back to this post sooner, as I have been very busy the past couple of weeks. I haven't made too many changes to my setup. My 500 W heater arrived. Between the total of 800W, the water is staying just below 60 degrees, compared to the 50 degree garage. I am happy with this temperature, although it is not ideal. Based on the link Cecil provided, the bacteria growth will be around 50% of what it would be in ideal temperatures. Does this just mean that it will take twice as long for my tank to cycle? If so, I'm not too concerned if I just have to wait a little bit longer. I also received one square foot of the biomedia that Cecil recommended for my MBBR. I am starting to think I am going to need to order a larger air pump because the media isn't circulating how I would like it. If I do buy a new air pump, I would consider switching over to an airlift. I have decided that I will cycle the filter fishless, and use the ammonia without sudz. The water test kit that I ordered from Amazon has arrives, so I will keep a close eye on the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

As far as the species I am planning on, I was wondering if anyone has experience with pumpkinseeds? I would think they would be similar to raising bluegill. The reason I would like to use PS is because I am planning to dig a pond next summer in one of our pastures, and I would like to make it a SMB and PS pond.

not sure how much juice those heater use but it seems like it would be a lot of energy for 10 degrees ...

had you thought about just heating the garage and insulation

Well its been a while since my last update, so I figure its time for another post. The tank has been cycling for roughly a month and a half now. I ran into some issues at the start of the cycle, so it has been taking longer than I had hoped. Before starting the cycle, I drained the water and refilled it. After refilling it, I let everything sit for a few days to let the chlorine dissipate. I then added the ammonia and waited for the cycle to start. A few weeks later, I had some minnows left over from an ice fishing trip, so I filled a bucket with water from the same hose and let it sit for two days before putting the minnows in, but the next morning they all were dead. After doing some research, I now realize my water has chloramines and not chlorine, so it didn't evaporate out. Luckily I had those minnows, or I probably would have had no clue why my tank wasn't cycling. So I then dosed the entire tank with a dechlorinator and started the wait again. Fast forward to today, and my ammonia levels have gone down to almost 0ppm, my nitrates are over 5ppm (the highest my test kit measure), and I have also begun to see some nitrates. I added another dose of ammonia to get it up to 4ppm.

I have also make a couple changes to my system since my last post. I converted the swirl filter into a radial flow filter, so hopefully once I add fish that will be more able to handle the solids.


I also purchased a much stronger air pump and a bigger air stone for my MBBR. Now all of the media boils, and none of it gets stuck on the sides like it used to. The media is also getting a yellow/brown tinge to it, which I understand to be the bacteria growing on it.


The water temperature is still holding in the mid 50s-low 60s. Once the tank is done cycling in a week or two I plan on turning off the heaters. As was sugg

For fish species, I will be hopefully be able to get my hands on some pumpkinseeds for the pond I plan on digging next summer. Pumpkinseeds are very rare around here, which is part of the reason why I would like to have them in my future pond. I have also always thought they were a cool looking fish. My problem is sourcing the fish. There are no lakes in my area that I know of to catch them, and no hatcheries sell them. I found someone who sells them for native fish aquariums. How feasible would it be to buy 5-10 pumpkinseeds, get them to spawn in tanks this spring, and then grow them out in my system?
If the pumpkinseeds don't work out, I will probably just grow yellow perch to eat.

Someone suggested you turn off the heaters? Why?

Your water temp already seems a little low for optimum bacterial production. Am I missing something?

Cool radial filter!

Here is a thread a member did on raising PS you might find interesting.

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=302848&page=1

I don't think anyone directly suggested it, but I wasn't sure if they were worth it for just 10 degrees above room temperature.

As a solution I decided that it's probably time to get around to insulating the tanks. Before I wasn't able to, because everything was right up against the wall and I couldn't move anything because of how they were pipes together. To fix this, I have now removed the pvc pipes that connected the IBC to the filter barrels. I replaced it with a hose, and I also put a valve in it as well. Now I should be able to get in there with the forklift and pull everything out into the open so I can insulate it.


One last question, how many pumpkinseeds should I start out with? I found a source that ships them. They charge $70 for shipping, plus 7 dollars per fish. I was thinking about ordering 10 to make sure I get an adequate mix between males and females. The guy I emailed said they are 2-3 inches now, and they will be big enough to spawn by this spring. Does this sounds right?

Thanks again everyone for the help

Derek,

I agree with leaving the heaters running. Also, the insulation is worth it. One other note about loosing heat, I would not use a spray bar, it is surely loosing heat. Just use the right amount of differs and air pumps to keep the O2 levels right.

I like your RDF, it has a little offset, but it should work well. After you have fish in the system, let us know how it does with the offset.

The new aerator is doing a much better job of moving the bio media. it looks good.

Keep us posted.

I moved my heaters directly into the water flow and that keeps the temps up.

PS reach sexual maturity at 2 to 3 years of age so I would say the answer to your question is maybe. You might want to ask the supplier the age of the fish.

A few years ago I stocked some PS from Smith Creek and they were 1"-2". The next year they spawned.

I've had slightly over 1 year old bluegill spawn. Granted they were fast growers at about 6 inches.

I have 4 to 7 inch bluegills in an indoor tank that won't be a year old until June or July.

If the offset proves to be an issue, it shouldn't be too hard to correct it. I built the RDF using spare fittings and pipe lengths I had on hand, but I might modify it a little bit to make it a bit more permanent.



Do you spawn your bluegill in tanks, or do you stock them into a pond to spawn, and then seine out the yoy?