Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Tilapitopia 3.0

EDIT:
Maybe just install a disconnect for now. You have the heater fused.

I learned a new trick today.

Searching around for stuff Brian could use, the first thing I was looking for was a disconnect switch or load switch rated for his high voltage DC. I found quite a few, but they don't give that stuff away. Yikes$$$

Anyway, after reading a number of spec manuals from ABB, Allen Bradley, Square D... I came across some info on using these AC rated load switches with DC.



The pic is of an ABB 16amp 3 pole AC load switch. Designed primarily for 3 phase equipment.

Look at the top row of terminals marked 1L1, 3L2, 5L3, then the bottom row marked 2T1, 4T2, and 6T3.

Here's the LEGAL trick. If you bring your high positive VDC into 1L1 from the PV, then run a wire from 2T1 on the bottom to 3L2 on the top, and do the same and run a wire from 4T2 on the bottom to 5L3 on the top, then connect 6T3 to your load, which is the heater, the switch is now rated for 220VDC at 16 Amps. These are ABB's published ratings, and is legal to use in this manner per NEC code. If you just ran it thru 1 contact, it's only rated for about 48VDC, but series wiring the 3 contacts bumps it up quite a bit.

ABB does make a purely DC rated load switch for PV, but it's >4X the dollars.

You can use this as a disconnect and a means of turning on and off your heater as long as the load side from 6T3 is fused properly.

List price is $40.98 each from: Kendall Electric There is some additional hardware you need and a NEMA rated enclosure to mount it in, if an inspector is on the prowl We'll cover that later. I logged into our account at Kendall and it's like $9.00 cheaper, but I could just email it to our account manager for a quote and he'll get me a few more bucks off. Free shipping as well. (They deliver every day to the shop)

Also ran across that NEC2014 requires that every solar installation must have a means of disconnecting PV panels from the load they are supplying, and this fits that code for this application.

I'll have more later.

Phil,

I understand that completely!! I like staying safe and to code!!

I'll email you.

please do Brian...
we had an employee a few years ago get in pond water to fix a fountain
and he was electrocuted as his granddaughter watched from shore.

Had a nice phone chat with Brian today. Sheesh, I don't much like driving in 40kt winds close to the ground, and he's flying in this!

Anyway, just a simple question on the load switch, which I thought I would clarify to everyone here, as well as a few other things.

Unlike many other switches of this type, the poles on ABB switches are symmetrical, meaning that power flow can be reversed. Instead of looping from the bottom of one pole to the top of another pole, you can simply jumper across from 2T1>>>4T2 on the bottom, then 3L2>>>5L3 on the top. Makes for a cleaner installation, and less wire. But if you are not sure, loop.

It is a growing trend for these reverse flow characteristics in a lot of devices. Eaton recently released a new line of circuit breakers that you can reverse feed. I've used these on the last 2 projects, and it's kinda difficult to get use to the concept that your line could be coming into the bottom of a device like this. It was forever since the dawn of history, line>top, load>bottom, power flow, so everyone was on the same page.

I kinda like it tho. Akin to my quirk about people who must have decimal dimensions on drawings equal fractions or they get lost because it's not on a chart. What's the big deal?

Also, keep in mind that this rig is way below 250VDC and feeding a purely resistive load with appropriate circuit protection. I could go on, but Brian has it well covered.

Went to lunch today about 3:30pm, and the water level in Spring Lake is up a good +3' or so. Waves from LM with winds from the west pounding the shoreline and pushing lake water back up the river. It was right around bottom of dock level, which is fairly significant. Starting to calm down tho, so should recede back to the lake.

Phil,
Thanks again for the clarification. I'll PM you about the switches, I think I am getting two to work with. I did also get the Midnite combiner/disconnecter box and three 10 amp DC breakers. They are on the way.

The switches will be added to this or another project.

Temps and water quality are looking great. I think we are in a much better place this year. Now I need the Barry White music to start playing. I need more numbers.

Sounds good Brian.

That combiner box should work well for you.

Brian,

When you get those circuit breakers, email me a pic of the label.

Seen a number of them on the net now and have concerns as to the equivalent ratings for the purpose.

Yeah, this stuff can get deep!

Do you know why, even the DC rated load switches/contactors, must go thru multiple poles? That is something you should learn about.

Phil.

Will do on the CBs I sent you an email about them.

And no I do not know, please enlighten me and anyone following along.

Will do.

Yep, those are the ones we talked about.

I got a tad concerned because browsing the net I saw some selling what appears to be a circuit breaker but it's actually a supplementary protector. They look the same, but in no way can you use one in place of a real circuit breaker.

I'll explain later, late for work.

I got this barrel at the little store where I picked up the other ones a while back: (the one on the right)


Basically the same dimensions of the LSB3 rig shown in Cecil's pic. Well, it's 1/2" larger in diameter. They are going to try get more. The top is removable with the band clamp. Had some sort of non-active powdered pill binder in it. They had some other ones, basically the same size, but where the two ribs are toward the top, it tapered quite a bit and thought that might not work so well with a uni-seal. Because of the height, I might not need a platform under it.



I'm using the other ones with the handles for storing stuff. Keep stuff nice and dry out in the sticks.

Oh yeah, that barrel was made in Texas!

I need to find one more blue barrel for my fourth and last high school to fill for water changes. My usual supplier, which is a factory that makes carmel popcorn and other products,refuses to save one for me, and when I call they tell me they'll check and call me back. Never do.

They never give me a receipt ether, but when they do have one the price is right at $10.00. And the barrel smells good for a while!

If esshup buzzes up here for RBT after hunting, and if he want's to haul them back, I'll just give you, or anyone all of the closed top barrels I have. Either had Sunny Delight or Dr. Pepper concentrate in them. Both 55G and 30G. Blue was Dr. Pepper and white was Sunny D. All rinsed out really well with the well water from my former shop.

The open top barrels are $15.00 ea, but that saves you the trouble of cutting the top off. Plus, it's really clean looking, and you can modify the lid to your pleasure without messing up the barrel.

Food for thought.

Thanks Phil for the generous offer but believe I found one after I made my post. Scott has a supplier by him too but Scott is a 2 hour round trip for me.

It's a Rural King on my way to the high school on Thursday.

Thanks again for the offer!

In my area there are a lot of blue barrels on Craigs List. The price varies a lot.

I'm lucky, there is a place on the way from the house to the farm that has a never ending supply!! I'm almost to the friends and family discount at this point!!

Tried that. Closest one was 45 minutes away.

This place is on the shortest route to work, but rarely go that way. 19 miles of twists, turns, hills and plenty of slow drivers. Not many places to pass at all and you might be the 20th vehicle behind the slow person. The other day it was like top speed of 34 in a 55, and I was way back! All you do at that point is enjoy the scenery.

The other route I take is a few miles longer, but they will whip you the bird if you are not at least 10 over the speed limit on certain roads, which the fines can be substantial up here, but never, ever, saw a cop on those roads. Always a first time tho.

I'm usually one of those 5-8 MPH over guy's, and no problem with those that want to pass. 10 MPH over is where they usually take interest up here, if it's sustained speed.

Well I got the new CBs for T3. Here is what it looks like.



Also there is a new firmware which should make more power available even in lower light. We shall see!!

The Temp is great at 77F and the numbers are 0,0,5. The fish are getting fat and growing well. I think we are in a good place right now.

Gotta love those firmware updates. Never flashed one that was not an improvement.

Is your water still getting greener?

Phil,

We should know in a hour or so if the new firmware makes more power!!

Cecil,

The water is still green. Some days it is greener than other days. I am contemplating adding a cap full of fertilizer to the water to see if that helps.

Any thoughts?

Cecil,

Also, we have new bulbs for the flood lights coming this weekend. They should give off more light in the right range to help generate more green water.

Any improvement, is a step in the right direction, even if it's slight.

No idea of what fertilizer would do, but remember, Cecil peed in his tanks