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#428062 10/31/15 09:28 AM
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I have a 1 acre pond, roughly circle shape, at 12' deep in middle. I called vertex and they quoted me $2500 for an aeration kit. I was wanting something a little more reasonable. Does anyone have a parts list and places where they got all of their parts from. I would like to use membrane diffusers. Thanks

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Do some searching on here for RC51. He did a DIY system.

If your pond freezes over, be prepared to either move the diffuser from the deepest point in the pond to around 3' deep for the winter, or put in a remote valve box and have winter and summer diffusers.

For a circular pond that is 12' deep and one acre in size, that $2500 price tag sounds high, and I'm a Vertex dealer. A simple system for a pond that size with 3 diffusers and 150' of bottom line tubing should be closer to 2/3 that price (minus shipping)


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benford here is what im getting for my pond, and mine is 1 acre and 30ft deep, and its 1/8 the price of what you are saying

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291529539535?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


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Be aware that those pumps are rebuilt and from experience have a wide range of life spans some long, some fairly short. Be aware of the risk. Those porous tube diffusers make small bubbles but they plug up or clog relatively quickly with carbonates and attached microalgae compared to membrane diffusers. Cleaning those porous tube diffusers to close to new condition is a real challenge. Anyone discovered a good way to clean those diffusers?

Last edited by Bill Cody; 10/31/15 06:19 PM.

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Originally Posted By: esshup
Do some searching on here for RC51. He did a DIY system.

If your pond freezes over, be prepared to either move the diffuser from the deepest point in the pond to around 3' deep for the winter, or put in a remote valve box and have winter and summer diffusers.

For a circular pond that is 12' deep and one acre in size, that $2500 price tag sounds high, and I'm a Vertex dealer. A simple system for a pond that size with 3 diffusers and 150' of bottom line tubing should be closer to 2/3 that price (minus shipping)


I just read this post and your response. I am preparing to buy my system now and DONT want to have to move my diffusers come season changes. So you mentioned a "remote valve box and have winter and summer diffusers"

what does this look like or consist of? Is it something you buy or build or both.

Thanks. DAVE

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Just like building a motor, you have to get parts/pieces that work with each other. No sense throwing on Edelbrock Performer Intake mated to a 950 cfm Ultra XP carb, a high lift roller cam and a 5500 rpm stall converter.

Just like you have to research parts to go together, you have to research compressors and diffusers. If the place where you are buying the parts from cannot tell you the specs on those parts, and you cannot find the specs on those particular parts somewhere on-line, move on to a supplier that can tell you that information.

How many cfm does the pump put out at what psi? How many cfm does the diffuser need to work at what psi? More importantly, how many gpm does the diffuser move at the installed depth?

To correctly design the system, you need to know how many gallons of water are in your pond, and design the system so it turns the pond over at least once per day. i.e. brings the total pond volume of water to the surface once per day (during the summer).

Make sure the air line that you use is long enough and big enough I.D. for the application too. 1/2" I.D. (or 5/8" I.D.) is the most common. Self Sink tubing for in the pond is recommended.

For winter aeration, have the diffuser in 1/4 to 1/3 the total pond depth, close enough to shore to allow anything that might go in the water to get footing on the pond bottom and crawl out of the pond without having to crawl up on the ice if at all possible. You want to keep 10% or so of the pond surface area open in the winter.


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Originally Posted By: esshup
Just like building a motor, you have to get parts/pieces that work with each other. No sense throwing on Edelbrock Performer Intake mated to a 950 cfm Ultra XP carb, a high lift roller cam and a 5500 rpm stall converter.

Just like you have to research parts to go together, you have to research compressors and diffusers. If the place where you are buying the parts from cannot tell you the specs on those parts, and you cannot find the specs on those particular parts somewhere on-line, move on to a supplier that can tell you that information.

How many cfm does the pump put out at what psi? How many cfm does the diffuser need to work at what psi? More importantly, how many gpm does the diffuser move at the installed depth?

To correctly design the system, you need to know how many gallons of water are in your pond, and design the system so it turns the pond over at least once per day. i.e. brings the total pond volume of water to the surface once per day (during the summer).

Make sure the air line that you use is long enough and big enough I.D. for the application too. 1/2" I.D. (or 5/8" I.D.) is the most common. Self Sink tubing for in the pond is recommended.

For winter aeration, have the diffuser in 1/4 to 1/3 the total pond depth, close enough to shore to allow anything that might go in the water to get footing on the pond bottom and crawl out of the pond without having to crawl up on the ice if at all possible. You want to keep 10% or so of the pond surface area open in the winter.


Thanks, but Im talking about the valve box to switch from summer to winter diffusers? is that one part in its self or something I can build?

Dave

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You can build it yourself.

Take a large underground sprinkler box, the one with the removable top, usually plastic. Airline from compressor goes in, you make a manifold with ball valves going to each diffuser. Turn on or off each diffuser there. If you want to get fancy, you can put in a "T" to add a low pressure gauge for each diffuser to monitor their performance. Typically 0-30 psi range.

Box is sunk into the ground with the top flush with the top of the ground so you can mow over it.

An image I grabbed from the internet. If I were to make my own, I'd make it from plastic and have brass ball valves.

Last edited by esshup; 01/10/16 02:53 PM.

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Originally Posted By: esshup
You can build it yourself.

Take a large underground sprinkler box, the one with the removable top, usually plastic. Airline from compressor goes in, you make a manifold with ball valves going to each diffuser. Turn on or off each diffuser there. If you want to get fancy, you can put in a "T" to add a low pressure gauge for each diffuser to monitor their performance. Typically 0-30 psi range.

Box is sunk into the ground with the top flush with the top of the ground so you can mow over it.

An image I grabbed from the internet. If I were to make my own, I'd make it from plastic and have brass ball valves.



Perfect----thanks a TON!!! yes I will do this as I prefer to spend a little extra on the parts initially instead of moving stuff constantly.

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If you are going to divert all the air from deep summer diffusers to a single shallow winter diffuser, you may want to install a tee and bleed-off valve in the winter air circuit. Doing so will prevent damaging your shallow diffuser.

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Originally Posted By: dg84s
If you are going to divert all the air from deep summer diffusers to a single shallow winter diffuser, you may want to install a tee and bleed-off valve in the winter air circuit. Doing so will prevent damaging your shallow diffuser.


Good point IMO. I have a problem with spending $s on electricity to bleed off air though (I did that last winter). FWIW on the advice of one of the pros, I just turned off the deep water diffuser and now full flow goes to the winter diffuser (shallow water). It was sized originally to take the full compressor flow. Now I will be bringing the deep water summer diffuser on line when the water warms. I use my winter diffuser year round. I know the winter diffuser still works fine at the reduced flow during the summer. For this winter, full flow through the winter diffuser blows a bigger hole faster than a small winter diffuser with reduced flow. Working well so far.

Last edited by Bill D.; 01/10/16 09:29 PM. Reason: Clarification

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Originally Posted By: dg84s
If you are going to divert all the air from deep summer diffusers to a single shallow winter diffuser, you may want to install a tee and bleed-off valve in the winter air circuit. Doing so will prevent damaging your shallow diffuser.


Another way would be to have the same number of diffusers in one area as you use total in the pond during the summer. i.e. if you you use 2 air stations during the summer, each with 2 diffusers, then use a 4 diffuser air station for the winter.

OR, use a few airstones that produce coarser bubbles for the winter. Fine bubbles for water movement during the summer with membrane diffusers, coarse bubbles for the winter to produce wave action.


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