Pond Boss Magazine
https://www.pondboss.com/images/userfiles/image/20130301193901_6_150by50orangewhyshouldsubscribejpeg.jpg
Advertisment
Newest Members
Shotgun01, Dan H, Stipker, LunkerHunt23, Jeanjules
18,451 Registered Users
Forum Statistics
Forums36
Topics40,899
Posts557,083
Members18,451
Most Online3,612
Jan 10th, 2023
Top Posters
esshup 28,414
ewest 21,474
Cecil Baird1 20,043
Bill Cody 15,110
Who's Online Now
9 members (Sunil, Requa, Jason D, Jared015, Freg, Justin W, LeighAnn, Donatello, Theo Gallus), 768 guests, and 250 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
OP Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
We have a 5 acre online pond where our spillway / dam has 15 feet of oak tongue and groove boards holding the water in at the outlet. The overall height is 15 feet with each board being 2-3/4 x 5-3/4 x 37 in size. The top 3-4 feet have had there time and need to be replaced.

Is it advisable to replace these pieces only and not the rest? There is also some sort of material / wood (similar to hardboard, but more plyable) in front of the oak that was slipped in a partial way down the chimney as if it's had an earlier repair.

I understand it would probably be best to drain the pond and do the repairs from empty, but I would like to know anyone else's experience with this repair.

I should mention that I have 1 more slot that I could use for a new top to bottom gate build. I would hate to use my last spillway lifeline if I didn't have to.


thx in advance mem's

Last edited by plumcrazy704406; 09/29/15 08:38 AM.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Welcome to the forum!

Being in "O Canada" and getting supplies across the border from the states may be costly.

You can try contacting Agri-Drain and seeing if they will custom make boards for you.

https://www.agridrain.com/about-us/contact-us

Or you could see about finding a local sawmill and having them cut some from local native hardwood.

To repair it, could you put boards in the last slot (if I'm understanding your post correctly) let the water level stabilize between that slot and the pond, then remove the boards in the first slot? Yes, they will have water on both sides of them and it will be a wet, cold job. Then once you have those boards replaced, remove the boards on the outer slot, going back to using the first slot as the primary "dam"?


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
You might be able to find a piece of 60mm pond liner or roofing membrane. Cut that to fit and replace the previous hardboard like material?

Flashboard riser systems like that always leak a bit of water between the boards as there is no "seal" between the boards. Maybe that hardboard like material was put there to minimize the leakage between the boards?

The closer the boards fit together, the less water will leak.

I wonder if the SoilFloc Polymer treatment that TJ sells would help seal those type of leaks??

I almost forgot, yes, I would replace all the boards at once.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
OP Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
To repair it, could you put boards in the last slot (if I'm understanding your post correctly) let the water level stabilize between that slot and the pond, then remove the boards in the first slot? Yes, they will have water on both sides of them and it will be a wet, cold job. Then once you have those boards replaced, remove the boards on the outer slot, going back to using the first slot as the primary "dam"? [/quote]

Thx for the welcome and the response esshup.

I'm not sure I understand your reply. Here is a numerical order of my slots

1- pond (water side)Someone jammed a piece of plywood down this one at one time, again, I think for a past repair. I can't get it out. I assume the silt is holding it tight

2- worn out (now holding all the water in the pond, needs rebuild)

3 - last lifeline (after this slot nothing but air)

It appears to be filled up to a couple of feet below #2's top with silt, so to use the last slot as a interim stop gap, wouldn't the silt all come forward as I removed the damaged wall?

Sorry, I don't have a photo to post. I can get one on the weekend.

Last edited by plumcrazy704406; 09/29/15 04:14 PM.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 9
C
Moderator
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Lunker
C
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 9
Plum,

Do you have any pictures so that we can better understand what you have?

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
If you put boards in the last slot, let the water level stabilize between the last boards and the pond, then remove the bad boards, no, I don't think the silt will be disturbed except when you get down to the bottom of the bad boards.

Google how canals and locks work. I believe the same principle. Nevermind, I found one.



Basically you'd be running the video in reverse, with no water between the locks. The lock on the right in the video is the new, unused slot. Boards are put in, the water level is allowed to come up to the pond level, and the bad boards are removed. If the water is the same level, then only when you get down to the sediment will it need to be disturbed. It'll be a PITA because it's narrow and the boards on the bottom (when replaced) will want to float.

The other option is use the same method, but only replace the top boards. BUT, if the bottom ones go bad the whole pond will drain. (then it'll be easy to replace all of them, including the ones buried in silt)

Once the bad boards are replaced, remove the 2nd set of boards and keep 'em for when you need to do it again.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
OP Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
Originally Posted By: Chris Steelman
Plum,

Do you have any pictures so that we can better understand what you have?


I will take some photos on the weekend and post them.

Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
OP Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
photos.

The material that is in front of the existing wood gates is hardboard. It was put in front during a past repair. Up to the bottom of the hardboard (which is bowing out with the water pressure) the remaining boards appear solid. It appears I would have to go down aprox 3-4 feet to do a repair. My question at this point is how deteriorated can I expect the tongue and groove slots to be with the wood that has silt built up against it and how to get the new replacement to seal against the old.

What I have removed is oak but I did find a piece of cedar downstream, maybe from a past washout? Oak or cedar for new ones?

Or should I just use the last slot (photo 9632) and build a new wall

Attached Images
IMG_9627 (Medium).JPG IMG_9628 (Medium).JPG IMG_9629 (Medium).JPG IMG_9630 (Medium).JPG IMG_9631 (Medium).JPG IMG_9632 (Medium).JPG IMG_9633 (Medium).JPG IMG_9634 (Medium).JPG IMG_9636 (Medium).JPG IMG_9638 (Medium).JPG
Last edited by plumcrazy704406; 10/04/15 07:25 PM.
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,026
Likes: 274
D
Moderator
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Lunker
D
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,026
Likes: 274
fiberglass instead of wood?


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Originally Posted By: plumcrazy704406
photos.

The material that is in front of the existing wood gates is hardboard. It was put in front during a past repair. Up to the bottom of the hardboard (which is bowing out with the water pressure) the remaining boards appear solid. It appears I would have to go down aprox 3-4 feet to do a repair. My question at this point is how deteriorated can I expect the tongue and groove slots to be with the wood that has silt built up against it and how to get the new replacement to seal against the old.

What I have removed is oak but I did find a piece of cedar downstream, maybe from a past washout? Oak or cedar for new ones?

Or should I just use the last slot (photo 9632) and build a new wall


I have no other ideas besides what I said earlier.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
J
JKB Offline
Hall of Fame 2015
Lunker
Offline
Hall of Fame 2015
Lunker
J
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
The dam up north has an aluminum system that replaced the wooden planks when they renovated it. From the few times I've been up there, I have never noticed it leaking.

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Offline
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,414
Likes: 792
JKB, I believe those aluminum ones have rubber seals.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


http://www.pondboss.com/subscribe.asp?c=4
3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
S
Ambassador
Lunker
Offline
Ambassador
Lunker
S
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 6,979
Likes: 14
It would need seals between the sides of the concrete slots also, to be truly effective. I would have a local mill cut some boards, and prepare to get very wet and muddy.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
OP Offline
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 6
Is it a smart idea to simply use the last slot (photo 9632), put up a complete new wall and call it a day?

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
J
JKB Offline
Hall of Fame 2015
Lunker
Offline
Hall of Fame 2015
Lunker
J
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
Originally Posted By: esshup
JKB, I believe those aluminum ones have rubber seals.


I believe it is sealed somehow, but never paid much attention, as that is not the part of the dam I was dealing with.

I do have some CAD files from the PE firm who noodled this up. It only shows concrete and iron for that part and very little on the aluminum stop log's. I wish I took a close up picture when I was there, because I thought it was pretty neat. I do have all the mechanical details of the hydraulic side tho.

That's that 8400 acre lake up north I'm messing with on occasion.

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
J
JKB Offline
Hall of Fame 2015
Lunker
Offline
Hall of Fame 2015
Lunker
J
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
Originally Posted By: plumcrazy704406
Is it a smart idea to simply use the last slot (photo 9632), put up a complete new wall and call it a day?


You can search "stop logs" and find companies that will custom make them for you to fit your needs. You can show them all the pictures and their engineers could come up with something. I am sure you can retrofit this with something decent.

The dam up north was renovated and they utilized a lot of the original concrete. They had to pour some new stuff and tweak it in and such.

The biggest thing might only be dewatering for the work to be done.


Link Copied to Clipboard
Today's Birthdays
Bob Lusk, GaryK, GrizzFan, PhotographerDave
Recent Posts
1 year after stocking question
by Requa - 03/28/24 01:39 PM
Happy Birthday Bob Lusk!!
by Sunil - 03/28/24 12:39 PM
New 2 acre pond stocking plan
by Sunil - 03/28/24 12:39 PM
Paper-shell crayfish and Japanese snails
by esshup - 03/28/24 10:39 AM
Brooder Shiners and Fry, What to do??
by Freg - 03/28/24 09:42 AM
Relative weight charts in Excel ? Calculations?
by esshup - 03/28/24 08:36 AM
Dewatering bags seeded to form berms?
by Justin W - 03/28/24 08:19 AM
Reducing fish biomass
by FishinRod - 03/28/24 08:18 AM
Questions and Feedback on SMB
by Donatello - 03/27/24 03:10 PM
2024 North Texas Optimal BG food Group Buy
by Dave Davidson1 - 03/27/24 08:15 AM
Freeze Danger? - Electric Diaphragm Pump
by esshup - 03/26/24 09:47 PM
Newly Uploaded Images
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
Eagles Over The Pond Yesterday
by Tbar, December 10
Deer at Theo's 2023
Deer at Theo's 2023
by Theo Gallus, November 13
Minnow identification
Minnow identification
by Mike Troyer, October 6
Sharing the Food
Sharing the Food
by FishinRod, September 9
Nice BGxRES
Nice BGxRES
by Theo Gallus, July 28
Snake Identification
Snake Identification
by Rangersedge, July 12

� 2014 POND BOSS INC. all rights reserved USA and Worldwide

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5