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I've had a large bloom growing on my 1 acre pond in the past week and its getting larger. I've got pictures of it but don't know how to upload them so that I can share them. HELP

Last edited by ScottO; 07/29/15 05:10 AM.
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Pictures can be loaded from the "full reply" window, or better, upload to a site like PhotoBucket.com and then copy the "IMG" link into your regular post here.



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Looks like filamentous algae which unless I'm wrong is not technically an algae bloom. At I least I was always under the assumption an algae bloom refers to phytoplankton. Could be wrong though.

If you get a good breeze going this will probably stack up on one end of the pond and you can remove it if you have the proper equipment. Removing it may impede more in the future.

Is this a new pond where rooted vegatation has not taken hold yet?

Any nutrient source near the pond that may have washed in?

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/28/15 11:17 PM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Thank you for the info. It does move as the wind blows. I do have other plants in the pond that root into bottom. There has not been any nutrients washed in, however we have recently started feeding the fish. Perhaps my kids got over zealous in feeding them?

Are there chemicals I can use to remove this that are fish friendly? And would it kill all vegetation?

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Once it's on the surface treating it is a waste of effort IMHO as it grows on the bottom and floats to the surface. I would physically remove the floating FA and if you still fill the need to treat the bottom growing FA use Cutrine Plus granular.

However I defer to more knowledgeable folks here.

Anybody?

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 07/29/15 07:22 AM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Thanks shorty! :-)

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Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
Once it's on the surface treating it is a waste of effort IMHO as it grows on the bottom and floats to the surface. I would physically remove the floating FA and if you still fill the need to treat the bottom growing FA use Cutrine Plus granular.

However I defer to more knowledgeable folks here.

Anybody?


So is this FA a continuous growing plant/algae? Or does it just come and go? Will it go away on its own?

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I'm making this post tongue-in-cheek, but there is an element of truth involved nonetheless. Per the teachings of Bill Cody, along with years of observation of my own ponds, I have decided there is a type of FA for every condition. Every temperature, water level, time of year, moon phase, and day of the week. It doesn't appear to discriminate on the basis of religion, political climate, gun control, sexual preference, wind turbines, or the effects of using gizzard shad as forage.

It is perpetual. And versatile. And unrelenting. grin

I have sprayed for it during the summer when water temps were in the 90's, and I have chopped through 8 inches of ice to find lush blankets of it growing during the coldest winters. Probably not the same variety mind you, but FA to be sure.

Spraying the floating stuff makes you feel good, and I do it myself. But, it's the FA growing below that you really need to target. I try to rake out all I can, and treat the perimeter of the pond, shallow areas, out about 10' or so. It's still a near constant battle, and will continue to be unless I can figure out how to tie up all those excess nutrients. That sounds great on paper, but successful implementation is another story.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Is this stringy stuff like beginning of filamentous algae?

Or maybe your bloom is now dying off and releasing protein from the algae. That first picture looks like a covering of snot like film on the surface.



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Shorty we need some 'clear' close up pictures of the stuff in a white or light colored bowl with a small amount of water. Get as close of clear focus as possible.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 07/29/15 11:26 AM.

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I will try to get better pictures.

Does it matter the variety? Would the citrine plus granular still be the proper remedy? Also, since my pond is 1 acre, do I need 60# to properly treat?

Last edited by ScottO; 07/29/15 02:05 PM.
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Better photos will help. Need to establish just what it is you're dealing with first, before treatment options are discussed. Maybe it isn't FA.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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This may sound crazy but I like some of the stuff. I do know it will show up in a week if you blow the grass clippings from cutting your grass or whipper snipping the pond edge.

Lots of good life lives in this stuff but what you have I would say is a problem.

Just start scooping.


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Here are some better pictures I uploaded at Photobucket.

http://s304.photobucket.com/user/scottankarens/library/?view=recent&page=1

Someone mentioned grass clippings. We have cut/weeded around the pond in recent weeks. Does that contribute as well?

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Shorty - It is one of the fine strand FA and green algae (Chlorophyta). It could be one of several genera of warm water Chlorophyta. I can't give you a specific name unless I see it using a microscope. Being fine stranded it may be a little more susceptible to standard FA algaecide treatments. Tilapia will eat it but it is a little late in the season to be adding tilapia.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 07/30/15 08:53 PM.

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Hi Bill,

My goal is to have a nice swimming pond for the kids (9,6,5,2) as well as have a great bass/bluegill fishery.

No thoughts on how to remedy it? Will it simply run its course and go away on its on? I've heard from someone that using a chemical that may reduce the nutrients may be worth considering. Thoughts?

Again, thanks for all your help.

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FA can be difficult to consistently reduce. Get rid of one and another appears. Do your homework and look at the research projects for nutrient reducing chemicals. I have my doubts.
I like to learn more towards low chemical inputs. I like reproducing blue tilapia for FA control with maybe a small amount of algaecide early in the season before the water is warm enough for tilapia. Adding enough tilapia to get effective control is the tricky part.


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Thanks Bill,

I'm in southern indiana. Max water depth of my 1 acre pond is 13'. Is that enough for Talapia?

Thanks!

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Tilapia will do well even in 3ft of water. FA algae is probably not growing any deeper on the bottom than 5-7ft unless the water is very clear such as 6ft of visibility.


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Im not a scientist or an ictheologist or even a doctor, however I do have a pond. A new one none the less. From what I can gather, when the water gets warm, and if you have shallow water with gradual banks you will get alegea. The little fish seem to like it but it does make the water unsightly.

There is so much information written/typed on this web sight about it that it literally overwhelming.

I have come to the conclusion that alegea will be a permanent part of pond life as long as there is a sitting bowl of semi stagnant water. The main culprit that I have witnessed is shallow waters. I have one area in my 1acre pond with a shallow grade and that is where my alegea factory is. Everything else is steep banks and nothing grows there.

I keep the O2 going and treat the alegea a little bit but I am of the belief that it's all one big food chain and chlorine is not an option.

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Another option is to plant things like hardy lilies and *gasp!* cattails (in controlled areas) that will incorporate nutrients before the FA can get to it. If there are other plants to compete with the FA, then it will minimize FA from taking over.

Otherwise, a more permanent solution is chemically tie up the nutrients as suggested. Otherwise just killing it will liberate nutrients until the toxin (to algae) is gone, or some other plant that is immune to the toxin takes over.


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