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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6
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OP
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6 |
Hi all, we have a concrete pond about 60 ft x 30 ft hourglass shape and 6 feet deep which is used for pasture irrigation and drinking water for horses in the pasture. Around the pond is a large pine tree and a pepper tree (previous owner's brilliant idea) which contribute some of their unwanted needles/leaves/seeds to the pond. Making their home in the pond are are some goldfish type fish and tadpole/minnow looking things.
Sediment (greyish silt-like consistency) has built up on the bottom and is threatening to cover the screened outlets to the irrigation pipes.. The water also has a rather greenish murky look.
My number one priority is getting rid of the stuff on the bottom and second is making the water clearer. I understand that some type of muck pellets combined with aeration would be the way to go (right?) and I've been trying to understand aeration sizing and timing but it's making my head spin, as is the choices and claims of the different de-mucking stuff.
So, I'm turning to all you knowledgable pond people for recommendations on an aeration system, preferably under $400, how long to run it, and which muck stuff to use that will work and be safe for horses and grass, or any other advice, or referral to a reputable and reasonably priced dealer. The pond is in California if that makes a difference.
Thanks for any help!
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,099 Likes: 23
Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,099 Likes: 23 |
CaseyL, aeration and Bacteria will make the leaves and needles decay faster, but will not remove them. It will only slow the speed of the buildup. Most aerobic bacteria's are already present in a pond, adding aeration provides the dissolved oxygen needed for the bacterial colonies to thrive.
Since this is a concrete pond, it may be easiest to use a trash pump with a weighted intake strainer and pump the muck out of the bottom. Adding the aeration will certainly lessen the pace of new buildup, and improve overall water quality for you.
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 7
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 7 |
If you are going with aeration the Matala MEA PRO 4 PLUS KIT would be a far better option. http://www.matalausa.com/subcat272.htmlAt 6ft depth it has air flow of up to 2.3 cfm where the EasyPro PA10w would be under.7 cfm. You may need more that 50 ft of tubing depending on where your air pump is placed They are both diaphragm pumps so you can plan on replacing the diaphragm in 3 to 4 years
Last edited by omaha4; 08/06/15 05:08 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1 |
Hi this is my first post. We got a 1/2 acre pond about 2 years ago in NY, Sullivan County. We added some fish last year to fight with algae, but now we have problem with fresh water growth from the bottom up. I am thinking of puting the solar system to operate the airpump. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The pond at the deepest part is 13 feet. My goal is to keep it swimmable and prevent the fish kill.
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