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#416690 06/25/15 07:35 PM
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DrLuke Offline OP
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After considerable amount of reading the numerous threads in PB, I am getting very close to 'biting the bullet' and installing an aeration system, as part of my pond management goals. Here is the scenario:
1.97 acre pond, over 40 yrs old, ~ 43 surface acres, ~ 1500 feet of shoreline, has two inlets (one long and shallow, the other short and shallow, both ave 2-3 feet deep max), main body of pond ave 13 feet deep, single outlet (4 foot corrugated pipe), no leaks from pond; both inlets have small dams with inlet pipes. Both fed from run off (local farm fields, actively farmed with corn or soybeans annually). Pond is overtly eutrified, with LOTS of FA. Depending on the wind, FA fills entirely the long inlet bay and most of the small inlet bay.
[img:center][/img]


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I was too late this spring (took ownership at the end of May, went to "PB school" for the past several weeks) to begin any FA control measures before it was so widespread.
Plan is to install bottom diffuser system with 3 discs. I already have power with 75 yrds of the pond, so will run PVC to the edge and then weighted line the rest of the way.
I also plan to spot treat with cutrine plus granules, but admit may be wise to wait until next spring (avoid massive FA die off and subsequent loss of DO). I am thinking of also applying some biologic agent to the bottom, to try and reduce the sludge/nutrient load, but haven't done my home work on the brand or amount.
And finally, I am very seriously considering use of a trash pump to pull as much FA matting off as I can, to again reduce the nutrient load.


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There are reproducing populations of BG and BCP (I've caught mature fish, fingerlings and seen fry, as well as BG on their beds). I've caught only one LMB so far (10 inches), but have only fished off the dock to date (i.e. haven't fished any appropriate bass structure). I've become aware BCP and LMB are competitors for the same feed, and the timing of the BCP spawn favors them crowding out LMB.


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DrLuke Offline OP
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I have been wanting to do some water testing, but have been reluctant to buy the kits I've seen due to their price, and my inexperience with their use. I have then been looking for someplace to send some samples locally (Iowa) but no luck so far. An accurate assessment of my nitrite load, alkalinity, pH and DO levels would be very instructive, as I've learned from the PB crew. Some disc testing for clarity would also be nice, especially to measure any improvements in clarity. However, I am reluctant to dabble at something so important to formulating a proper management plan.


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Last but no least, we've now received ~ 14 inches of rainfall in the past 3 weeks! I now know the inlet/outlets are able to manage super heavy rains, but it's done me no favors to say the least.


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The outflow at the base of the dam, after almost 4 inches of rain in one day:


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Any input PB members want to share would be great. Sorry for the long opening post(s).
- Luke


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Big rains help knock down the FA. Other than that, if you're not going to put copper sulfate in, I use a pool skimmer net and manually remove it. I dump it into a garden cart I pull behind my golf cart then go and dump in in my deer plot field.

Manually removing it does the trick but it's time consuming but pretty rewarding too.

Aeration doesn't really remove algae. It can "help" with beneficial bacteria growth that "can" help with the junk at the bottom that's helping cause the blooms, but you really need a lot of constant aeration to make that happen (think water treatment plant type of aeration going on).

I have a 3 acre pond similar to yours. I get a lot of spring runoff from the planted fields surrounding me. I got the Kasco 220v aerator running as early as I could this year and I still got a huge bloom (not as bad as yours though). I used copper sulfate and, with the Kasco, knocked it down in a day.

Aerators help a pond be healthy and they help the fish (if they need help), but they are not a FA removal option (in my opinion).

Last edited by Timinator; 06/30/15 04:25 PM.
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I'll agree with what Tim said also! I have had air running in my pond now for 5 years and I still get FA. What has helped it or reduced I think is the air running and I add 2, 1 pound bags of Beneficial bacteria each year to help my pond jump start. My pond is 1 acre over 65 years old.

I know some guys use Cutrine plus on those mats. If you can use that in your area. Mix it up in a pump pray bottle and spray the mats. That will help you get going in the right direction then with your air.

I used Cu. Plus granules in my pond one year for my bad chara problem. That year I could actually fish a Texas rigged worm off the bottom of my pond in the summer. I couldn't believe it. You have to catch the chara early enough though then it works best! But FA mats I am sure you could spray at any time you need to.

RC

RC


The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Keep I mind you don't want to spray but about 30 to 40 percent of your pond at one time so you don't have a big D.O. crash and accidentally kill off some of your fish.

RC

Ideally you would want your air setup and in place before you do any treatment. I always have my air running full max when I treat my water with anything just to make sure my fish have enough D.O. in the water.


Last edited by RC51; 06/30/15 03:38 PM.

The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Yea, good point. Only do a small area at a time with copper sulfate if you don't have some type of aeration. The dying FA can suck a lot of oxygen out of the water in a just a single day.

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DrLuke Offline OP
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I appreciated the input guys! I'm working on setting up the aeration system now. The Mrs and I have already worked the dip nets on the FA a couple times. We got pretty discouraged by the sheer volume we are facing. But it is kind of rewarding to actually get rid of some of it (and the nutrient load).

For the aeration, I am thinking about running it all year round, which means even when it freezes up here in Iowa. If I've read correctly, that means I should move or put a diffuser in a shallower location for the winter, so I don't super cool my pond during the winter, correct? Do you all have your diffusers set up so you can turn off some and run others (i.e. not have to move them around each season)?


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You can either move one or two into an area that is approx. 1/4 the total pond depth for the winter and move it back out for the summer, or have a manifold box on shore and just turn on and off different ball valves.

Buy the back issue of the Pond Boss Magazine that was Jan/Feb this year (2015). Bill Cody and I did a winter aeration article.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
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I hope you like duck hunting. When all the water in the area freezes and your pond stays open it really attracts waterfowl.

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DrLuke Offline OP
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Actually I do! My old yellow lab might balk at the cold water on his bad joints, but hey...


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