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Another vote for a tractor and chain - but make sure it's a strong chain. Pull, don't jerk it.

If it doesn't move, don't try and jerk it. Get a bigger piece of equipment.


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Try to hook to the fixed drawbar, but if you use a drawbar on the three point for a particular job, remember to lower the drawbar below the axle centerline before pulling.


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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Thanks everyone for all the replies so far. I'm planning on borrowing the tractor this weekend and giving it a shot. I'll keep you guys posted as well.


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Originally Posted By: sprkplug
Try to hook to the fixed drawbar, but if you use a drawbar on the three point for a particular job, remember to lower the drawbar below the axle centerline before pulling.


Sprkplug says this to reduce tipping hazard. If pulling from too high a point the tractor rearing and tipping over backward is greatly increased. On that same line of thought, a tractor positioned going up a hill is already at a greater hazard than one on flat ground.

As an example, an older row crop tractor (in this case a 1958 620 JD _ high center of gravity tractor) can tip over backward pulling nothing if engaging the clutch on a steep incline. Learned this at about 12 years old many years ago. It did not go over backwards, but had it standing about straight up. After two tries, turned around and backed the tractor up the steep incline.

Point is, pay attention to what you are doing, pull steady as esshup says, and be alert and ready at the clutch. Pulling at the factory fixed drawbar will help cause the tractor to spin out before it goes over backwards because as the front end reaches a certain height geometry will cause the force to reduce traction and attempt to pull the front end back down. Raising the pull point too high changes geometry and will actually pull the tractor right on top of you......quickly.

Last edited by snrub; 05/05/15 09:51 PM.

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Originally Posted By: snrub
Originally Posted By: sprkplug
Try to hook to the fixed drawbar, but if you use a drawbar on the three point for a particular job, remember to lower the drawbar below the axle centerline before pulling.


Sprkplug says this to reduce tipping hazard. If pulling from too high a point the tractor rearing and tipping over backward is greatly increased. On that same line of thought, a tractor positioned going up a hill is already at a greater hazard than one on flat ground.

As an example, an older row crop tractor (in this case a 1958 620 JD _ high center of gravity tractor) can tip over backward pulling nothing if engaging the clutch on a steep incline. Learned this at about 12 years old many years ago. It did not go over backwards, but had it standing about straight up. After two tries, turned around and backed the tractor up the steep incline.

Point is, pay attention to what you are doing, pull steady as esshup says, and be alert and ready at the clutch. Pulling at the factory fixed drawbar will help cause the tractor to spin out before it goes over backwards because as the front end reaches a certain height geometry will cause the force to reduce traction and attempt to pull the front end back down. Raising the pull point too high changes geometry and will actually pull the tractor right on top of you......quickly.


Well said snrub.... and quickly means it can happen under a second, even at slow speeds. Too little time to do anything unless you are prepared ahead of time!!! A possible point this may happen in this case would be if that log hits the stump or digs into the bank and stops it. Having foot ready at the clutch at all times can be a life saver.

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That's also why I mentioned my initial attempt would likely be made by hooking to the front of the tractor, and backing up to gage the resistance. Safer, as traction will be the limiting factor. If you do that, be sure you have a structurally sound place to hook too....lots of brush guards torn off that way!


"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"

If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1)
And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1)
Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT?
PB answer: It depends.
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I welded hooks on the bucket to hook chain to .. Slow is definitely the best way....

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TSK, you have a lot of good options on here. I'm not an expert log remover, but if it were me and I was borrowing a tractor with a loader (bucket, etc.) I would first try and use the loader to lift and move the log over the stump and bank without moving the tractor. Not sure what size tractor, but most with a loader should be able to handle the weight of that tree. I have welded hooks on the front of my buckets blade also and would hook a log chain to the front of the bucket lower the bucket until its about 6 inches over the log and wrap the chain around the log a few times. Then slowly begin lifting the bucket until the log is a foot or two over the stump and bank. You don't want to raise the bucket as high as you can because the higher the bucket the more unstable the tractor becomes. Keeping the bucket raised begin tilting the bucket down like you are dumping the bucket. This will move the log towards the tractor and the land. The log will go a little lower as you tilt the bucket down. Make sure the bucket is just high enough to avoid hitting anything with the log. Depending on the tractor and loader you may be able to move the log around three feet using this technique.

I have pulled several logs like this out with a pickup also, just make sure your hooked up to a strong point (not a bumper hitch) like a frame mounted towing hitch or the front tow hook and go very slowly. This will surpise roadwarrior but my chevy's done it several times. I would agree with Sparkplug, however, this is tailor made for a tractor and if you could get one that is the route I would go. I have seen a lot of damage from what appeared to be an easy problem around the farm.

Good Luck

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My two cents: Mix 40# of flash powder, pack into 5g bucket, seal with polyurethane, install a 5' fuse, light and run like hell. Please video for me.


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T I like your style! Let her rip!

+ 1 on the bang and video

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I had to remove a couple trees about this size from my parents pond when they purchased it 7-8 years ago. Luckily it was the middle of the summer when we did it so I was able to swim and wade out and rig them, although treading water with a log chain over your shoulder is a little bit on the difficult side... We used my 3/4 ton truck to pull them out because neither my dad or I had our tractors at that time. In 4 low my truck pulled them out with ease and there are no worries of a truck raring up plus you are a lot safer should a strap fail. With the log only being a foot in diameter I would try this first if you access to a 4x4 truck.


Originally Posted By: teehjaeh57
My two cents: Mix 40# of flash powder, pack into 5g bucket, seal with polyurethane, install a 5' fuse, light and run like hell. Please video for me.


If you go this route I would like video as well!


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Well, the tractor worked like a charm. It was so easy I am a bit embarrassed I didn't just try it myself earlier. I had been expecting a fight but it went quite easy. The tractor did try to lift a few times but taking it slow caught things before anything happened. Now all I have to do is snag all the broken branches down there. Thanks again.


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Awesome! Glad it went off with out a hitch. IMO it never hurts to get advice when doing something potentially dangerous.


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That's what is so good about this place. You can learn from others mistakes before you go and hurt yourself (usually that is!).


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