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#401274 02/18/15 09:53 PM
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This has nothing to do with ponds but I am cutting some slabs from a bunch of 90 year old pecan trees that we cut to sell for BBQ wood. Up until this point we had no way to utilize the large trunks. So we just pile and burn them. But I bought a slabbing mill attachment for my stihl 880 chainsaw just to see what they would look like. And it blew me away when we opened up that first log. The slabs are as nice as any of those imported South American species. I am going to have dozens of these, and I hope I can find a market.

Take a look and let me know what y'all think!

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Cray #401275 02/18/15 10:01 PM
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Wow! Top to a bar, coffee table, ......Great looking wood!


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Very nice.

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Good looking wood. Your chain must be pretty dang sharp to do that.

Just curious; how thin can you cut it? I've never even heard of a slabbing attachment.

Editing here: OK, I started looking around and found a heckuva lot of things for saws that I didn't know existed.

Last edited by Dave Davidson1; 02/19/15 06:38 AM.

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Originally Posted By: Dave Davidson1
Good looking wood. Your chain must be pretty dang sharp to do that.

Just curious; how thin can you cut it? I've never even heard of a slabbing attachment.

Editing here: OK, I started looking around and found a heckuva lot of things for saws that I didn't know existed.


Yes I can cut down to 1 inch. When you go thinner it's hard to maintain an even thickness. I bought a panther pro because I wanted to start basic then add as I needed. There is also the Alaskan mill but it comes as a package and I didn't want all the bells and whistles to start with.

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Cray, Don't know how experienced you are, but if you have any questions on drying, cutting, etc, LMK. I've been doing it for over 30 years.

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Originally Posted By: fish n chips
Cray, Don't know how experienced you are, but if you have any questions on drying, cutting, etc, LMK. I've been doing it for over 30 years.


I have no experience at all. I have been cutting stickering and stacking. I was thinking I would allow them to dry for a year then see what they look like and offer them for sale. Do I need to weight them down? Also I have a few that have a split starting so I put a steel strap across the end and drove a few nails through the strap on both sides of the crack to keep it from spreading. Is that what I should do or is there something better I can do?

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Ok... there is a lot to this. Simply put, you are cutting thicker slabs and of a harder wood. Both make it difficult to dry easily. Stack the wood in area that will only get a light air movement thru them. Also don't let the sun directly on them, or put them in a heated area to begin with. Cover the pile(only on top) to keep the sun and rain off. Coat the ends of each piece with a sealer. Center cut pieces will ALWAYS crack. Sometimes your better off dealing with doing something else with those pieces. Put your stickers about 20" apart.Make sure the sticks are uniform otherwise the pieces will get more deformed as they dry. Make sure they are placed on top of each other as you build the pile. Get a sticker on each end. The weight of the pile as it gets bigger helps pinch the ends much like you are trying to do with the straps. If using straps they will need to be tighten frerquently as the pile dries and shrinks, thus stapling would be a problem. And yes, weight the pile with around 500#, the more the better. I usually take a stack that has dried for a awhile( and thus stabilized) and put it on top of the green one. Lots more to it, but this might give you a fighting chance and avoid basic pitfalls.

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Somewhere along the coast (can't remember - Washington, Oregon or northern California) wife and I stopped in a coastal town and walked out on their pier system. They had benches with backrests made of half sawn logs like you have in your pictures. They were beautiful.

They impressed me enough to buy one of the mills and also one of the mini-mills that make the first cut easier. I've used the mini-mill but have yet to use the larger one. Bought a new bar and 90 degree sharpened chain. I was just thinking about that attachment the other day and contemplating making some benches for around the pond.

My saw is not really a big enough one to do any production work. From what I have read, to really mill a lot of wood a person wants the biggest, baddest saw because of the power needed for ripping instead of crosscut.

Beautiful wood. We have burned a bunch of pecan for fire wood, but mostly limbs from large trees that needed trimming or a tree that went bad. Dense wood.

Keep us posted on how you get along.


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Ok so I have put them in a un heated warehouse and I have them stickered every 14". I used 3/4" ply for sticks is that ok? Also how long should I wait to use forced air to speed drying? And thank you for the advice! I know I only get one shot at this so if there is anything else I can do that will help them to dry strait please fell free to tell me. Would latex paint be ok for end coat?

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Cray, can't add any advice but am curious, why are 90 yr old trees being removed? Non productive anymore? I've seen small things made from Pecan and you are right, gorgeous wood. I cringed when ya said ya used to sell it for firewood. On the other hand, what you're embarking on now will be a lot of work. Good luck, hope it works out that someone will be appreciating that wood another 90 yrs from now.


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I don't think I would use forced air. You want that to dry nice and slow. Too fast and more cracking will happen. However, check it every few days, and if you notice molding on the surface, then use forced air to stop that, but no more than necessary to keep it from molding. Then in 6 months, go ahead and use some forced air, but if you notice new cracks starting then, do less of it.

Yes, put at least a heavy coat of latex paint on the ends. Wax works better, but it is a pain. There is great commercial products, but as a starter you probably don't want to invest in that yet. Make sure the ends are dry to the touch so the paint won't peel. However, don't wait to long or cracks will start and then it doesn't do much good. Very fine line on this.

Dry straight wood: good level base to stack on... uniform sticks placed above each other.... weight evenly distributed on the stickers, lots of weight!! Some woods have to be cut thicker to allow for warpage, you just can't stop it. Can't say for Pecan, never cut any of that. But my guess is that chances are higher that it will warp more than other types.

In the fall bring it into a heated area. Let sit over the winter, and you should have wood ready to use by spring. You will get it down to 10% inside most heated areas. Wood that has been Kiln Dried will usually come up in moisture content and equalize to its environment.

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Those are some pretty slabs! Why do you suppose the color contrast is so great?

I used to drive between Atlanta and Tallahassee regularly and about 10 years ago a tornado seriously damaged the pecan groves around Baconton/Camilla. Rather than salvaging the wood, they pushed it all up in piles and burned it. It seemed like such a waste.

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Originally Posted By: Bob-O
Cray, can't add any advice but am curious, why are 90 yr old trees being removed? Non productive anymore? I've seen small things made from Pecan and you are right, gorgeous wood. I cringed when ya said ya used to sell it for firewood. On the other hand, what you're embarking on now will be a lot of work. Good luck, hope it works out that someone will be appreciating that wood another 90 yrs from now.

These trees are no longer productive. So we cut them down and replant with new improved cultivars. I know it hurts my feelings too when I have to fell such a large beautiful tree, but as a pecan farmer I have to do what needs to be done. And don't worry we interplant 5 years before we cut so as not to lose production. Each one of these trees has been replaced by 4 new trees.

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The heart wood is just that way. Now in the new young trees we plant we don't see that kind of contrast. Probably b/c we grow them so fast.

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Thanks for the help!!!

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Cray, how do you grow them fast?


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

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The new cultivars that have been released in the last 15 years or so are more precious than the older varieties. We are planting excel, creek, Lakota, Huffman, McMillan, and Ellis. These varieties start producing enough to harvest by year 5. And in the case of creek we have had 2 year old trees that grew 100 nuts per tree. We also push them with fertilizer and micro nutrients.

Last edited by Cray; 02/22/15 04:26 PM.
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No Lipan or Oswego?

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Cray,
Any new varieties resistant to pecan scab? All 8 of my trees fall to this every season.


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Those sure would make for nice benches or picnic tables...


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Gosh Cray, we die for access to pecan wood up here for smoking, but also never knew that it was such a beautiful wood. Kinda feel bad for all those chucks I burn now. Really neat work there...how's it's density and ability to work? Figure it's along the density of hickory...not sure.


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Originally Posted By: djstauder
Cray,
Any new varieties resistant to pecan scab? All 8 of my trees fall to this every season.

The most scab resistant varieties out there are excel,Lakota, McMillan there are others but these are the most profitable that have been cleared for planting in my area of South Georgia.

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Pecan is a very hard wood. It is used in bowl turning a lot. But when it dries it is like concrete.
I hope you aren't paying to much! The wood you buy at the store may by my wood. I sell 500,000 - 1,000,000 lb a year for smoking.

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Wow, that's a lot of Pecan! I love it's taste, like a mellow Hickory. This thread has my interest - learning a ton and didn't know Fish was an expert, either. Keep going!


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Originally Posted By: Cray
The new cultivars that have been released in the last 15 years or so are more precious than the older varieties. We are planting excel, creek, Lakota, Huffman, McMillan, and Ellis. These varieties start producing enough to harvest by year 5. And in the case of creek we have had 2 year old trees that grew 100 nuts per tree. We also push them with fertilizer and micro nutrients.


Cray, having production at 5 years is amazing. Could you go into a few more details about how you maintain (water, feed) the pecan trees? I've planted 10 more 2-3" pecan trees, and I want to get them off to a strong start like yours.

Cool thread.


AL

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I am glad you have brought the pecan up for discussion. My son and I have been thinking of a tree or trees where we might sell the fruit for profit. I am aware of the pecan trees that can produce in 5 to 7 yrs, so we have been considering 10 pecan trees. But you are in Georgia where the great Georgia Peach fruit is produced. How would you compare $ profits from the pecan to the peach. We are looking @ 10 or so pecans versus 50 peach trees. What say u? Thanking u ahead.
Tracy


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Tracy, I know you're close to Shreveport, so do you stick with the Indian pecan trees?

Sorry if I got this thread off topic, but due to the extended drought, we've lost dozens of old growth oak trees over the last few years and I want to get my new trees off to a strong start.


AL

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u nailed it Al, on the losing of old oak trees and pine trees also. It's a good thing the sweet gums work in the pond for structure. We are just looking to fill an area with some trees that might make a little profit and pleasure.
Tracy


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Al, I am not sure what pecan trees to plant here in our area, but I did learn about some of the new trees will produce pecans in 5 yrs, and I was also told China is buying up all the pecans that USA can produce. And that is why i asked the questions here on this post.
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Originally Posted By: teehjaeh57
Wow, that's a lot of Pecan! I love it's taste, like a mellow Hickory. This thread has my interest - learning a ton and didn't know Fish was an expert, either. Keep going!


Expert? Don't know about that... but have been felling, cutting, and drying lumber my whole life. So that adds up to a lot of hands on experience. Most of the wood I process is large blocks for carving, which is hard to dry successfully so you have to be very particular. The PB name doesn't refer to food, its referral to all the different ways I turn wood into chips...just a silly play on words.

There is guy near me that has chestnut trees. He has been doing what Cray is getting into. He thins them out and salvages the better parts of trees. It can add a nice side supplemental income to the regular business. Its fun to open up logs and see what's inside, but has been mentioned, a lot of hard work. I bet Cray can testify to this. Kind of like treasure hunting, never knowing what really is inside. It can be very addicting, be carefull Cray!

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Fish n chips...aha, I get it now. Kinda figured you were partial to beer battered cod and visited Ireland often.

I have nothing constructive to add to this thread being a total lumber cutting novice still, other than I'm eager to read more about planting Pecan trees, smoking wood, and felling/seasoning trees - so I'll step aside and enjoy.


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Originally Posted By: FireIsHot
Originally Posted By: Cray
The new cultivars that have been released in the last 15 years or so are more precious than the older varieties. We are planting excel, creek, Lakota, Huffman, McMillan, and Ellis. These varieties start producing enough to harvest by year 5. And in the case of creek we have had 2 year old trees that grew 100 nuts per tree. We also push them with fertilizer and micro nutrients.


Cray, having production at 5 years is amazing. Could you go into a few more details about how you maintain (water, feed) the pecan trees? I've planted 10 more 2-3" pecan trees, and I want to get them off to a strong start like yours.

Cool thread.

Pecans need weel drained soil, ph of 6.0-6.5, if you are planting bare root trim roots to fit hole. Do not wrap roots in hole! Pant top root no deeper than 2" below soil surface. Probe hole with rod all the way to bottom before watering. This will allow water ot get to bottom of hole and settle all dirt.keep putting in water until air bubbles stop. Air is roots enemy. Trim top third of tree off then strip all the buds off except the top 6". Allowing these to bud out. You will train a dominant limb from these.
Ok now nutrients. Take a soil sample and mark it for pecan. Follow the recommendations from lab for P and K.
Need to go to work will Finnish tonight.

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Cray, thank you very much.


AL

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Ok I'm back. Once you get your P and K out there is really no need to put out much N the first year. You will get a little N with the other nutrients. Now the most important part, micronutrients. Your new tree will grow best if it gets monthly applications of zinc, nickel, and boron. These should be applied to the foliage. Also put down a heavy mulch 8' diameter around tree thes keeps form drying out, adds nutrients and keeps weeds from competing with tree.

Once you get good growth on your new shoots break off all but the best two. Allow these to grow training the best for your main trunk leave the other to feed tree but cut off at 1" diameter. If all goes well that will be its first winter.

All you Texas guys and gals should look into the pecan short corse put on at Texas A&M. I have been and it was well worth the time.

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[quote=TGW1]Al, I am not sure what pecan trees to plant here in our area, but I did learn about some of the new trees will produce pecans in 5 yrs, and I was also told China is buying up all the pecans that USA can produce. And that is why i asked the questions here on this post.
b/c climate has a lot to do with cultivar selection I will not make any recommendations. but your county agent should be able to help. As far as China is concerned. They are buying 40 million lb a year. That's a 1200% increase from just 6 years ago. But the U.S. produces about 280 million lb. a year. And Georgia produces the most of any state.

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Wish there was a pecan tree tolerant to zone 4. I would love to grow a few.


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Seems cray might be into pecans as much as ponds ... Cool stuff!


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Bobby I only work the pecans so I can afford to pay for my ponds.

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Here's a link to the Texas A&M course Cray referred to.
Texas A&M Pecan Short Course

Again, thank you so much. DD1 you interested? All we're gonna do next January is look out the window at the cold weather anyway.


AL

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Thank you Cray for the information on the pecans. Good to know.

Tracy


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Tracy
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We bought 12 Sumner pecan trees. Would have bought more but it was all the nursery had. It is the most sought after pecan tree in the southern US. Early to fruit ( 4 to 5 years) and was highly recommended by LSU for this area. Will grow to 50', I hope smile
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Sumner is a great tree. I have 68 acres of those myself. This tree has the ability to fill out nuts even on the inner shaded branches. However it is becoming more susceptible to scab. And black aphids love it. It is a good producer. It will alternate bare but this is easily controlled by shaking off the excess in late summer at 1/2 to 3/4 elongation. We average 1750 lb per acre on sumners.

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We hope to get another dozen but they snow and ice slowed us down, and when we doug the holes they filled with water due to soil saturation and did not want to set the new trees in the water with a 20 degree night expected. So in the next few days, we will put new trees on the property. I like planting trees. smile
Tracy

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The nut trees sound interesting, especially Pecans. I did some googling and a farm up by my place sells the pecan nut seeds for planting.

They have a strain from Wisconsin that grows and produces in colder climates. I'll dig into that one a bit more.

Thanks for the info Cray, I would never have thought of Pecans.

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Originally Posted By: JKB
The nut trees sound interesting, especially Pecans. I did some googling and a farm up by my place sells the pecan nut seeds for planting.

They have a strain from Wisconsin that grows and produces in colder climates. I'll dig into that one a bit more.

Thanks for the info Cray, I would never have thought of Pecans.


That would be awesome JKB. I would love to get my hands on a dozen or so seedlings Zone 4 tolerant! Please post your findings!


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If I'm not mistaken when you plant a pecan from a nut you don't get the same pecan as the parent tree. That's how it works around here

Pat

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That's right Pat. All grafted trees start out as natives from the nut.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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Possibly. More info needed....From my experience with seed corn manufacture, it is all about the seed. If they have created a cross between two strains that produce a seed that grows a tolerant hybrid and that is the seed they are selling, then it will work, but the seeds from the hybrid will not retain the traits of the hybrid tree.

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Well with the pecans that come up in the yard from mine actually don't revert back to native. They are large pecans more like a Stuart pecan with a thicker shell than a paper shell. Not sure what is happening but they definitely not natives



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Yeah, more investigation is in order.

I have countless White Oaks that shoot up every year from acorns. That was the initial thought process with the Pecan trees.

I would like to get rid of ALL of my pine trees and most of my White Oaks, and others, then pretty much start with a clean slate.

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Originally Posted By: Pat Williamson
Well with the pecans that come up in the yard from mine actually don't revert back to native. They are large pecans more like a Stuart pecan with a thicker shell than a paper shell. Not sure what is happening but they definitely not natives



Pat


Showing my pecan ignorance here, which is perfectly ok with me, I show my ignorance all the time! Just read a few of my posts smile

Are Stuart pecan the only nut trees you have? Should also ask, cause I don't know, are Stuart pecans a strain or a hybrid?

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No Stuart at all,the freebe come ups look like Stuart. Mine are all Indian names- Choctaw- can't remember the rest, some large some not

Ps I have read some of your posts and think you are into the Falstaff a bit much.... LOL

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Originally Posted By: JKB
Yeah, more investigation is in order.

I have countless White Oaks that shoot up every year from acorns. That was the initial thought process with the Pecan trees.

I would like to get rid of ALL of my pine trees and most of my White Oaks, and others, then pretty much start with a clean slate.


JKB you might find this interesting. I can't comment cause I just don't know. FWIW A friend of mine with a degree in forrestry told me this in an e-mail, "Oaks naturally hybridize, to the point where I'm convinced that most oaks we see are hybrids to one degree or another. The species lines are pretty darn blurry, especially within the white oak group. Personally I think there are just a couple of true species of oaks (or perhaps just one) with thousands of variations."

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Originally Posted By: Pat Williamson
Ps I have read some of your posts and think you are into the Falstaff a bit much.... LOL


My buddy in Texas, PW, turned me on to it. Hard to get now. Out of production. Thankfully he still has a garage full! grin

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I agree I have been to Texas A&M Pecan short course. Well worth the time. Also Pecan south magazine will help. Most if not all Indian named pecans were developed by Tommy Thomson at the Texas pecan research By College station. Desirable is also very popular.
Most old paper shells are just outstanding trees discovered and grafted. If you plant pecans from a tree it will be different as it has been pollinated from another tree. This is what I learned from A&M. It has been a few years so I could have forgot.
The Noble foundation in Ardmore Oklahoma is also a good source for Advise.
Kanza is a big native looking pecan that takes very little spraying and will stand colder weather.
All my pecans are native.
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Dale are yours the small hard shelled ones that are super good tasting but they make you earn it to get it out of the shell?

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A friend of the family is a taxidermist (she don't do fish), but is interested in 2 large White Oaks I have. If the cores are solid and you crosscut slab them to about 5-6" without wrecking the bark, the 4' tree could bring around 5K just for 6' of the trunk. She want's to know what the core is on a 6' White Oak I have. I had the tree doc out, and he believes the tree is rotting from the inside.


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Pat, that's the first time I've PERSONALLY heard of a volunteer pecan that didn't come back as a native. However, I find that it is not all that unusual for me to be wrong.

See my next post.

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Question about planting pecan nuts to get a tree.

I last did this about 25 years ago and it worked. Soak the nut for a week or so and then put 4 or 5 of them in a bucket of soil. When they sprout, cull down to one. Let it grow awhile and then transplant. It worked great. These are native pecans but about 2 or 3 times the size of the nuts off of my neighbors native trees.

I've been trying it again for the last couple of months and it hasn't worked. No matter how long I soak them I get nothing. The nuts are from the trees that I successfully "cultured" but just aren't sprouting. According to pecan sites on the web, I'm doing it right.

I'm planting them indoors. I know nothing about photo periods. Could that have a bearing?

One of the nuts cracked and started a root. So I put it down into some soil. It somehow pushed up to the top of the soil and died.

What am I doing wrong?

Last edited by Dave Davidson1; 03/01/15 06:54 AM.

It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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Originally Posted By: Dave Davidson1
Question about planting pecan nuts to get a tree.

I last did this about 25 years ago and it worked. Soak the nut for a week or so and then put 4 or 5 of them in a bucket of soil. When they sprout, cull down to one. Let it grow awhile and then transplant. It worked great. These are native pecans but about 2 or 3 times the size of the nuts off of my neighbors native trees.

I've been trying it again for the last couple of months and it hasn't worked. No matter how long I soak them I get nothing. The nuts are from the trees that I successfully "cultured" but just aren't sprouting. According to pecan sites on the web, I'm doing it right.

I'm planting them indoors. I know nothing about photo periods. Could that have a bearing?

One of the nuts cracked and started a root. So I put it down into some soil. It somehow pushed up to the top of the soil and died.

What am I doing wrong?


Dave,
The trees that you planted from nuts, did they produce? If so, how many years of growth before they made edible fruit? Did you have to graft them?


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They produce quite well when we get decent rain. I think it took about 5 years. This year they did very well. I never grafted them because the nuts are about 3 times larger than the normal natives. However, they are certainly not paper shells.

I transplanted some on my land at Bowie. However the drought of 2012 killed those.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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Dave, some advocate refrigerating pecans for at least 90 days before planting. Of course, this doesn't explain the many seedling trees that are growing around the countryside from pecans that haven't been refrigerated.

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Pat
Yes they are. I have mine picked up on halves when I have a good crop. From what I have been told most go into cookies around my part of Ok.
I would still like to plant an orchard but it is a big investment. if a pecan tree comes up in the right place ( not too close to other trees)I will put a post by it so I don't run over it and hope it grows.

Texas A&M said no native tree is the exact same I have some trees with good size for natives and some small.

I have an old pecan tree that has never produced a nut There is a hole in it and there is no telling how many squirrels have been raised in it.

A good pecan farmer would cut it down I just cant do it.
I also don't do this for a living.

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I have found that the sooner you plant the pecan the better chance of it sprouting, also found that some sprout before they fall so if limbs are low start looking at them as soon as they even begin to open up and you will find candidates for planting. After being on the ground for 30 days I can't get them to sprout


Pat

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Pat, that might just be the answer.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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Around here the squirells cut the pecans while they are in the husk, the ones that they don't eat they bury for later. Those usually sprout and start to grow, the squirels still will dig them up and eat the nut. Mother Nature is pretty smart. While the nut is starting to grow the nut won't rot keeping the food supply viable for a time... My point is if a squirrel plants it and you want it ... Cover around with wire cage .... Otherwise it gets et



Pat

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I gave a bunch, several hundred, to Al Hall(FIH) for him to grow. He planted a bunch of them before trying to sprout them. The tree rats dug up every one of them.

Rethinking my previous time when I planted them. I got them in the Spring and planted them with no problem. They had to have been gathered in the Fall. I have no idea why it worked so well then and not now.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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DD1

It shows to go you- IT DEPENDS.. Been waiting to use that

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Originally Posted By: Dave Davidson1
I gave a bunch, several hundred, to Al Hall(FIH) for him to grow. He planted a bunch of them before trying to sprout them. The tree rats dug up every one of them...

They darn sure did! What I wasn't expecting is that they continued to root around in that bed after the pecans were all gone. We lost 6 butter lettuce plants that were planted over the same area the pecans were in.

We have resident red tailed hawks which turned DD1's favorite pests completely nocturnal. That makes them hard to control.


AL

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Ok. So the slabs have dried and the first project complete. Our local high school basketball team needed to replace some old ratty couches. So I donated these to there locker room. I now have 53 left that dried straight enough to work with.

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That's some real pretty wood Cray!


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Thanks. I think the players really appreciated them.

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Cray how thick are they and what did you use to seal them?

Very nice work. I work with wood all the time and so enjoy different woods.

On the planting thing above I have heard as well to put the seed in the freezer to trigger a season before you warm them up to plant them.

Cheers Don.


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I cut those down to 2-1/4" thick. And I used a two part epoxy to seal.

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I have customers that want their fish mounted on slabs like that. Used to be able to order slabs in butternut and walnut but they're getting harder and harder to find.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Originally Posted By: Cray
I cut those down to 2-1/4" thick. And I used a two part epoxy to seal.


WOW very nice. Those must be some really big slabs because the thickness looks only 1.5". IF they are 2.5" those are some really stout slabs.

One of my lumber suppliers would take a truck load of black walnut down to Florida and bring back cypress. Guess walnut in Florida for kitchen cabinets is hard to come by and cypress is hard to come by here in Ontario.

I thought it was a two part epoxy. I am building my self a bar top for our bar in the basement of out house and was going to use that product to cover the inlays of stone.

Let me post a picture of a 10 foot board room table my buddy was commissioned to build. In the center there is an inlay of 3/8" cut stone with crushed stone laid in as grout. The inlay looks like a river bottom.

Tryed to turn the pictures but cant.... hmm

Cheers Don.

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Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
I have customers that want their fish mounted on slabs like that. Used to be able to order slabs in butternut and walnut but they're getting harder and harder to find.


Well Cecil they are piled up around here. If you have a specific piece in mind that you need just let me know.

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What are the rough dimensions and thicknesses again?


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Cecil, if ya work out something, I could probably bring up some reasonably sized pieces for ya.


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Thanks Bob. Don't get a lot of call for them but once in a while.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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I have them from 20" wide up to almost 50. And up to 9' long. I also have pecan lumber up to 9.5" wide and 8' long.

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Lumber is 1" and slabs will vary in thickness. The larger slabs are 2-3/4" the narrower are down to 1-3/4 thick.

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Don, unusual but very nice table.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

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Donno, those look great!

50" wide slab? How old are those trees?

How many years from planting a sapling to getting nuts?


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Don, how did you handle the bark on the benches? Did the epoxy flow through it ok, or did it bubble a lot? Very beautiful by the way.

I'm working on an american elm coffee table, and I can't decide whether to take the bark off or not.


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These trees were about 90 or so.

I used a hawks bill knife to get all the loose bark off then used a palm sander to bring out the color difference. There was a little bubbling but it wasn't bad.

Esshup it depends on the variety I have two year old creek that had 50 nuts per tree. And I have 8 year old Elliots that just made there first crop. But most average around 5-7 years.

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Cray, my apology. I saw your original post in a quote, and misdirected the question.

Thanks for the info.


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Cray, thanks. I'll have to look and see if any will survive here. USDA 5b -10°F to -15°F

Although it's been more like 6b to 6a the past few years.


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There are a few verities that will produce in your area. There have been several that have come out over the last few years that have really shortened the growing season.
Take a look at these http://www.nolinnursery.com/Northern-Pecans.htm

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I'll have to call them on Monday. That page is saying "sold out for 2016", but you never know. Not enough time this a.m. to call.


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Those prices are a little higher then I see down here I just bought 500 3-4'pawnee for 10.00 each. I directed you to that site because it describes the varietys well.

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O.k. Understood and thanks! I'll do some looking for those specific varieties.


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Cray #435559 01/23/16 01:05 PM
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I would ask your agg extension office if any one in your area has had luck with pecans and what variety they have. For you the quicker the nuts mature the better. Ask if the trees are scab resistant and if they have issues with bacterial leaf scorch. The more scab resistant the better. And bacterial leaf scorch is a deal breaker, because there is no cure. The only other major thing to ask about is if this particular strain is prone to having issues with black pecan aphids, as they can really be a problem and some verities are like candy to them.

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Thanks for the tips. The ag extension office here is of little help. If it doesn't pertain to corn or soybeans, I get the deer in the headlights look. Same look when I ask any question about ponds. THAT I learned a long time ago.


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Cray #464796 02/23/17 07:54 AM
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Update!

I have started making furniture out of the slabs we cut. They turned out better than I hoped. Take a look at my first 5 pieces and tell me what you think.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/Ahs3486/Wood%20slabs/image.jpg5_zpsrh4ykj3p.jpg

Cray #464804 02/23/17 08:52 AM
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Cray, that wood table is beautiful! But, I can only see one pic... Perhaps I don't know how to use photobucket well enough.


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Originally Posted By: djstauder
Cray, that wood table is beautiful! But, I can only see one pic... Perhaps I don't know how to use photobucket well enough.


Here you go djstauder

http://s50.photobucket.com/user/Ahs3486/...?sort=3&o=0


Great looking stuff Cray. I need to start doing that stuff again.


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Those are great. The slab tables and benches are a big thing right now, and a lot of other items with a natural edge. How did the drying go for you? Much loss?

DJ- I can see several pics. I hover near the left or right of the picture and there is an arrow that shows up to click on.

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Originally Posted By: fish n chips
Those are great. The slab tables and benches are a big thing right now, and a lot of other items with a natural edge. How did the drying go for you? Much loss?

DJ- I can see several pics. I hover near the left or right of the picture and there is an arrow that shows up to click on.



Drying went well thanks to your advice. We weighted them down with concrete blocks, and put stickers every 12 inches. Other than checking not much loss.

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Cray if you paint the end grain with high oil base paint you will cut back on the end checking too when drying. All my hardwood whole sales have the ends painted before steam drying. Each mill has a different end paint. There is a red end red Oak from a mill in Pennsylvania that I will never by from ever again. Junk grading and honeycombing from drying to fast.

The reason for the paint on the end grain is because you want the water from drying to come out the face grain. It will come out of the end grain much faster and over dry the ends.

Last edited by DonoBBD; 02/23/17 01:31 PM.

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Cray, It's a small world, I had breakfast on that hi top table in your pic in Hahira last Saturday. It's the first time I've been in there since the fire and I remembered this post as I sat there admiring it. Great idea to fit the two slabs together in the middle, functional while you left some of the live edge intact. My "retirement home" is about 5 miles east of there. I will PM you about getting a couple of slabs from you.

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Originally Posted By: DonoBBD
Cray if you paint the end grain with high oil base paint you will cut back on the end checking too when drying. All my hardwood whole sales have the ends painted before steam drying. Each mill has a different end paint. There is a red end red Oak from a mill in Pennsylvania that I will never by from ever again. Junk grading and honeycombing from drying to fast.

The reason for the paint on the end grain is because you want the water from drying to come out the face grain. It will come out of the end grain much faster and over dry the ends.


I did paint the ends of a few. It did cut back on the small checks. But not the bigger ones.

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It is a small world. It's easy to think that you are so removed from everyone online. But you could be talking with a neighbor without knowing.

Cray #464931 02/24/17 09:12 AM
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The big cracks could be from the log having it before it was even milled into planks. Not much you can do about that. Also, when you cut thicker pieces it is harder to prevent splitting, warping, etc. due to the extra stress of thickness. Then add into the species, some are harder to dry than others. I think pecan would be one of those, as are most fruitwoods.

If you want to decrease the waste factor, I would move to a wax sealant.

Edit; also the pith in planks will crack it. Which means at lest one piece in every log will have it, even more if the tree isn't straight.

Last edited by fish n chips; 02/24/17 09:14 AM.
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Originally Posted By: Cray
It is a small world. It's easy to think that you are so removed from everyone online. But you could be talking with a neighbor without knowing.


I was talking to a member here that was a mile down the road from my families place and didn't realize it for several months.

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Originally Posted By: Cray
Originally Posted By: DonoBBD
Cray if you paint the end grain with high oil base paint you will cut back on the end checking too when drying. All my hardwood whole sales have the ends painted before steam drying. Each mill has a different end paint. There is a red end red Oak from a mill in Pennsylvania that I will never by from ever again. Junk grading and honeycombing from drying to fast.

The reason for the paint on the end grain is because you want the water from drying to come out the face grain. It will come out of the end grain much faster and over dry the ends.


I did paint the ends of a few. It did cut back on the small checks. But not the bigger ones.


The bigger ones come from the hart of the tree. There is nothing you can do when you get close to that.


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