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#398806 01/25/15 08:16 PM
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I am looking for an inexpensive siphon set up to start the draining process on my pond before finishing it up with a pump. Can somebody point me to any helpful threads on setting up a siphon? The more inexpensive the better.

Arktiger #398808 01/25/15 08:50 PM
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Do you have an area much lower than the pond level to siphon the water?


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Arktiger #398810 01/25/15 08:58 PM
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Yes. The back of the levee.

Arktiger #398812 01/25/15 09:07 PM
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Great! I have not used one to drain a pond but I have seen lots of threads on siphons. One of the guys will be along with advice to help you out I am sure.


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Arktiger #398836 01/26/15 07:36 AM
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You say inexpensive: The first thing that comes to mind is the old garden hose. Get it started and you have something working nonstop with materials that you probably don't have to go out and buy. Get a couple of them going if you have the hose. Of course the question is, how big of a pond are you trying to drain? That makes a world of difference. But don't underestimate a free working cheap product that goes 24/7. Also, do you have a big watershed or spring that fills the pond constantly/quickly?

There are good past threads with regards to siphons, however they can be difficult to find. There is one section/thread in the archive area, but it is very lacking with info. Like I said, much better threads mixed in thru the years but never compiled into one place.

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I would go get some 2" PVC and some couplers and one T-joint. Set the pipe all up where you want it to flow (it bends nicely). I don't believe you would even need to glue it as there will be min pressure.

Cap the down hill end temporarily and put the t-joint at the top of the arch. Fill it with a garden hose at the t-joint and then cap the T. Now remove the cap on the down hill side.

Cheap and effective.

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Ark, you will not only want to glue, but tape each joint with electrical tape or air WILL enter enter the pipe and break the siphon.

You can use S&D PVC on the outlet side, but if lifting higher then 15" to the highest point, the suction will collapse the pipe...use schedule 40 on the inlet and dam crossover pipes. Install a Tee that can be sealed with a "test plug" or threaded cap at the highest point to fill the pipe with water while the outlet is capped off using a "test plug". Be sure to install a 45* elbow on the outlet so air can not run up your discharge pipe.

Cap the outlet, fill the pipe at the Tee as much as you can, seal the Tee, then stand to the side as you loosen the outlet plug. The weight of the water will create the siphon flow and the amount of water coming out will shock you.



Arktiger #398851 01/26/15 11:32 AM
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So with a pond that is .8 acres that is at it's deepest 8ft what kind of time am I looking at for draining. I'd like to have it done in a month. Would the extra cost for 4" pipe be worth the money to speed up the process?

Arktiger #398852 01/26/15 11:42 AM
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Ark,

If there is a big enough elevation difference from the pond level to outlet level 2" pipe will be enough. I built a siphon a few months ago out of 2" to drain my 2/3 acre pond down a few feet. Over a weeks time it dropped the pond level 2-3 feet. When I get a chance I'll add some pictures.

Arktiger #398853 01/26/15 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted By: Arktiger
So with a pond that is .8 acres that is at it's deepest 8ft what kind of time am I looking at for draining. I'd like to have it done in a month. Would the extra cost for 4" pipe be worth the money to speed up the process?
3 weeks roughly at 10,000 gph.

Last edited by ToddM; 01/26/15 11:55 AM.
ToddM #398856 01/26/15 12:32 PM
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I don't know how well a siphon will work if the outlet end isn't at least 4' lower than the lowest water level that you want it to function at in the pond.

i.e. if the pond water now is at 500' elevation and you want to drop it 8', you'll probably need the outlet to be at 488' elevation.


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Arktiger #398860 01/26/15 02:14 PM
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Arktiger #398866 01/26/15 03:39 PM
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The pictures are really helpful. What is the black hose on the inlet. I figured it would collapse due to pressure.

Arktiger #399185 01/29/15 08:09 AM
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So, I have another question. My ponds are right next to each other. Pond 1 currently has a siphon on it and it is working great! Thanks for the help. The only way to get a siphon going on pond 2 is to run it into pond 1. My original plan was to put another siphon on pond 2 and drain it into 1 and then out of pond 1. However, I had another thought and wanted to run it by the professionals. Could I drain pond 1 as low as possible then nuke with lime. Then set up a siphon with some type of fish Gaurd pond 2 and drain it into pond 1. Using the water to refill pond 1 but not getting the unwanted fish. Then nuke pond 2. Is this possible? If so, what could I put on the 2 inch pipe to insure no fish transfer.

Arktiger #399186 01/29/15 08:22 AM
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I built a siphon with 4" and 6" corrugated landscaping tubing. The 100' long rolls you see at Lowes etc. They sell a fabric sleeve to put over the pipe to keep soil from going into your french drain system. I put a 4' spur of the type with holes in it with a fabric sleeve over that and tied off the end. With that down in the water on the draw end, nothing solid got out.

Low pressure is created by the rise to the top of the hump of your system. You'd definitely not want flex / thin wall at the top of a high-rise system. Sounds like you're not using large elevation gradients and may get away with it near water level.

Arktiger #399187 01/29/15 08:37 AM
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I've never used a siphon this big. How do you get the flow started?


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Arktiger #399189 01/29/15 08:51 AM
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It was hard work. No fill port at the top. It was a pretty short climb from water level to max elevation as the dam was breached. I put the bottom end up in a ladder rung, then went to the pond and dunked the end and lifted it overhead numerous times. That lifted water over the top and it filled the back end. Once it started spilling out the lifted back end, I put the draw end into the pond, went to the ladder and shoved it over. Not fun solo in cold water, but with a breached dam, you are very motivated. I'm not sure it was ever in full siphon mode, but it did move a lot of water. I put 3 of them in as it was raining hard and water was flowing out the breach. I was determined to get pond level down ASAP.

Edit: Found the old thread with some pictures.
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=28461&Number=375128#Post375128

Last edited by DNickolaus; 01/29/15 08:56 AM.
Arktiger #399190 01/29/15 08:58 AM
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Would something like this at the end of the pipe be sufficient to keep fish out?

https://www.plumbersstock.com/product/48...M1eUaAiE28P8HAQ

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Originally Posted By: DNickolaus
It was hard work. No fill port at the top. It was a pretty short climb from water level to max elevation as the dam was breached. I put the bottom end up in a ladder rung, then went to the pond and dunked the end and lifted it overhead numerous times. That lifted water over the top and it filled the back end. Once it started spilling out the lifted back end, I put the draw end into the pond, went to the ladder and shoved it over. Not fun solo in cold water, but with a breached dam, you are very motivated. I'm not sure it was ever in full siphon mode, but it did move a lot of water. I put 3 of them in as it was raining hard and water was flowing out the breach. I was determined to get pond level down ASAP.

Edit: Found the old thread with some pictures.
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=28461&Number=375128#Post375128



Thanks. Sounds like a pain but at least a siphon runs for free!


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Arktiger #399194 01/29/15 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted By: Arktiger
Would something like this at the end of the pipe be sufficient to keep fish out?

https://www.plumbersstock.com/product/48...M1eUaAiE28P8HAQ


No.


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esshup #399195 01/29/15 10:18 AM
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Quote:

Originally Posted By: Arktiger
Would something like this at the end of the pipe be sufficient to keep fish out?

https://www.plumbersstock.com/product/48...M1eUaAiE28P8HAQ


No.




Do you have any other suggestions?

Arktiger #399235 01/29/15 05:15 PM
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2 lengths of plastic water well screen. Or a length of pipe with a bunch of holes drilled in it covered with fine wire mesh, like window screen. The more holes and area that you have for the water to go thru the screen the better. The smaller the area the easier it is to clog and reduce the flow.

Fish as small as 1/4" long by 1/8" tall can contaminate the pond.


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Arktiger #401078 02/16/15 10:44 PM
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I'm draining water from one pond to another. As the pond starts filling the outlet will be under water. Will that stop the flow are will it keep running?


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