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CrazyJu Offline OP
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Not sure what the word "snow" is referring to. smile We have not had any crippling snow since 1993. Went and looked at the property, but it came a monsoon, so didnt get to really look around. I am going to try to go back this weekend, but looks like rain again.

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I walked Property # 6 yesterday and it looks promising. 40 acres with 2 very large gulleys splitting the property. The owner just completed a small dam, backing up about 1/2 acre and it looks like that could be expanded much larger depending on how high you can build a dam. I think at 20 ft i need a state permit in TN. The pond directly west has what looks to be around a 40 ft dam, maybe more. The property is much closer to work and priced right. So how large are some of your dams, especially any across gulleys/




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I drive about an hour (sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less) from my home in the suburbs to my farm. Typically make the trip two or three times a week. I don't mind the time at all, but I would think anything much beyond an hour would get to be a problem.

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I like 5 wow what a nice piece! I drive and hour and 40 minutes one way to my place! But the nice thing about it is when I get there I feel like I am actually away from it all. Out, gone!! Not sure if I would fee that way just 30 minutes down the road so I have no problem with the drive either!

If I had the money and everything was right I would go after 5 in a heart beat!!

RC

Last edited by RC51; 11/25/14 04:05 PM.

The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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The CC in the pond of property will hinder your big LMB goals if that is truly your goal. If they are that size, they will eat a lot of forage.

Some of the dam across gulleys I have seen range from 200 feet to 500 feet. It just depends on how the land lays.

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Yeah Ludwig is right about the CC. I would have to fish the heck out of it and catch them CC and get rid of them. Like that doesn't sound like any fun!! haha!

RC


The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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I don't see any acess roads to prop. #6 make sure you can get to it


Pat W

My dam is 450' long

Last edited by Pat Williamson; 11/26/14 12:37 PM.
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CrazyJu Offline OP
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It actually has a brand new rd to the property and a driveway that accesses half of the property. Going to go spend a few hours on # 6 this weekend and shoot some grades to see whats possible.

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Do those other ponds flow into where your might be? If so, that be an issue in years of drought, or the years of floods what fish they have will be yours too.

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No, the ones on property # 6 actually drain to the creek on the north of the property. The ponds on the adjoining property would be on a different watershed. From what i saw last weekend, Property # 6 gets plenty of water, rough guess 300+ acres. There are atleast 4 gullies that could be potential sites. Two already have small ponds on them. I have been reading on state and fed regs for dams and it seems i need to hire a lawyer to interput. Has any one put together a check list of permits? I know this would differ from state to state, but would be a starting point. If I can get 2 to 3 acres out of #6, it really fits good location wise. I just need to find out how tall a dam can be legally built.

Last edited by CrazyJu; 11/26/14 03:36 PM.
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Just thinking that #6 looks very promising. With that much watershed you have to remember that your 100 year control can get pricey. Taller dam means big emergency overflow, large drain pipe or siphon. Just something to consider which property #5 has already paid for.

What about the possibility of 2x 1 acre or more ponds? Do something different in each. Looks like #6 has that possibility, which for me is more compelling than one large pond.

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Well, I put an offer in on #6. Owner accepted and we close on property mid Jan.Spent the last few weekends walking the property and measuring elevations. Looks as if 2 2o ft high dams would get me 2 ponds in the 3 acre range. Multiple sight for 1 acre ponds. 40ft plus dam would put it around 6 to 7 acres. Plenty of runoff and great soil. Will get.some pics posted. Merry Christmas!

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Congrats!!!!!

Early present for you.... can't fit that into a sleigh!!

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And so the obsession begins. Some early advice: Don't lie to your Wife about the costs. You will always get caught. I can attest to this.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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There is a new 1/2 acre pond filled to the brim that has some pretty bad errosion on the back side of the dam. Top of Dam is only about 6ft wide and right at 20ft tall. Spill way was put in and lined with rocks last weekend. Is there a grass that can be planted this time of the year?

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Annual rye will likely grow but it will die out in the spring


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20 ft high dam and only 6 ft top width would scare me a little, even for a 1/2 acre pond. NCRS calls for a minimum of 12 feet, page 45, right hand side.

http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/nrcs144p2_030362.pdf

---------------
Top width and alignment—For dams less than 10
feet high, a conservative minimum top width is 6 feet.
As the height of the dam increases, increase the top
width. The recommended minimum top width for
earth embankments of various heights is:

Height of dam/Minimum top width
Under 10' = 6'
11' to 14' = 8'
15' to 19' = 10'
20' to 24' = 12'
25' to 34' = 14'

If the top of the embankment is to be used for a roadway,
provide for a shoulder on each side of the roadway
to prevent raveling. The top width should be at
least 16 feet.
-----------

Something to look at, especially if you are having erosion problems.

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CrazyJu Offline OP
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Yes the existing looks to be very poorly built.I really do not like the dam location, there were several areas that would have worked better. I have about 1500 ft of ravine on the downside of the dam, and then the ravine continues for miles, so i do not think this could damage any other property.

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Congratulations CrazyJu.

Keep this thread going as you progress with your project so we can follow along.

Nice thing about the property, it at least has a pond to start doing something with. Even if it is not completely what you want, it gives you a place to put some fish and get started while working on building your dream pond(s). Will not be quite so long that way before you can actually start catching fish.

While you are building the other ponds, you might be able to add to the back side of the existing pond dam and add to its width. It is not like you need it to be sealed so it holds water, just more width or thickness of the dam for structural strength.

Last edited by snrub; 12/24/14 01:23 PM.

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Awesome! A tad jealous here... but very happy for you. It will be fun to follow your progress on your dream. You came to the right place to help make it happen.

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Congrats on your purchase. Looking forward to following your progress.

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Hi,

I am new to the forum and was reading through a lot of the posts and topics. I am interested in a piece of property that has a great bottom that runs through it that would be perfect for building a lake. One of the issues is that the best spot for the dam is very close to a year round spring. In addition to that, the property line is about 40-50 ft. From the spring. I'll post some pics of the topo with the property line and spring location, but in the meantime can anyone give advice on how to manage building a dam close to the spring that is going to fill the lake?

Thanks!

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I doubt that I would do it. You only have enough room for 40 to 50 ft of pond. The future pond would also, I assume, gets rain runoff.

And, if you back the water up over the spring, it could cause a problem if the ground water level ever drops. That's when springs start sucking water from the pond.


It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.

Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.

Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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Here is the topo and satellite of the property. It is all wooded, mostly hard woods. The soil is mostly sandy on the surface, but I haven't walked the entire property. The neighbor to the east has a beautiful lake as you can see in the satellite photo.

The spring is located on the eastern most property line, right where the bottom/gully exits the property. It's about 40-50 ft from the property line. Just by looking at this, where do you think the best place for a dam would be? I know you have to factor in soil, but I figure we can start with the best topo location first and the go from there.

I was also told that the water table is only 40-80 ft, so a well could easily be put on the property.

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Like Dave alluded to, springs are nothing more than a permeable layer of dirt in the ground that lets water out (or through it) because there is more pressure (most likely uphill) pushing the water out. If the pond is built over the spring, and water pressure in the pond exceeds the water pressure in the spring, it will act as a drain in a bathtub, letting the water out until the pressure equalizes between the ground and the pond.

Before I made plans for a pond, I'd make sure that there was enough good clay in the area of the pond to build the dam and to properly seal the bottom of the pond.

If clay isn't found, then if you want a pond, it would have to be trucked in. At that point, (trucking in clay) start comparing prices of clay vs. a liner.


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