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Hey Forum - Pond location NE Texas - My pond Is just over a year old. (2 acres) Have had positive rain fall since late spring and am finally getting close to full. Water level has only gradually come up through the past 6 months and slowly covered previously grassy / dry ground. My water clarity is 'too' good - Could snorkel in it - tried fert in early June, but did not impact it. Missed doing the re application. Now I have a significant (greater than 50%) coverage of Baby Pondweed - probably close to 80% of my fishable Growth has exploded in past 6 weeks. So now, all my good structure that I took effort to put in is not fishable.

Furthermore, I also have, about 30% cover with Filamentous Algea. I have applied copper sulfate with some success, but have limited application due to being cautious about maintaining oxygen levels in this heat. I did put in about 20lbs of tilapia (6") in may, but they did not even get close to keeping up - the algea has expanded significantly in the past 6 weeks

The good news is that the weed has created great cover for establishing the bluegill - I think I'm good here. But I don't want this problem next year

So - several questions.

Is there anything I should do at this time of year?

Is the Pondweed going to die during this winter?

What do I do to make sure this problem doesn't come back next year?

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David, 20 pounds of tilapia is about half of the suggested stocking rate for 2ac in your area, so I would not expect the T to keep up.

What other fish have you stocked?

Any LMB to munch on the Tilapia at the end of the year? If so, I would stock 60-80 pounds of tilapia next year, or get approved for Grass carp, and not fertilize until the current plants are controlled. There is always the chemical route, but that is expensive and when the pondweed decays, it will likely come back as more FA.



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Pondweeds often die back during winter season only to regrow in the spring. As suggested get approved for several grass carp and use tilapia or algacides in the spring. DO NOT stock enough grass carp to denude the pond weed. Numbers needed depend on how much weed coverage you need. For small pond weed start with 4/ac. It is MUCH easier to add them, compared to removing them. You want some pond weed present to create good habitat and compete for nutrients and space against the filamentous algae (FA). Unless you want a dense plankton bloom with fertilization, then go for eliminating all the FA and pond weeds then fertilize. Make sure your alkalinity is above 20-30 ppm for the fertilizer to stimulate a bloom. Very important ""Waters that are low in alkalinity or total hardness (below 20 mg/L or ppm) will need liming in order for fertilizers to be effective."" Also if pondweeds or FA are present they will use fertilizer instead of the algae comprising the bloom.

Study the info here for proper pond fertilization. Your comprehension of the info will determine bloom success.
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=96127#Post96127

Last edited by Bill Cody; 09/01/14 10:28 AM.

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Originally Posted By: DavidBiss
Hey Forum - Pond location NE Texas - My pond Is just over a year old. (2 acres) Have had positive rain fall since late spring and am finally getting close to full. Water level has only gradually come up through the past 6 months and slowly covered previously grassy / dry ground. My water clarity is 'too' good - Could snorkel in it - tried fert in early June, but did not impact it. Missed doing the re application. Now I have a significant (greater than 50%) coverage of Baby Pondweed - probably close to 80% of my fishable Growth has exploded in past 6 weeks. So now, all my good structure that I took effort to put in is not fishable.

Furthermore, I also have, about 30% cover with Filamentous Algea. I have applied copper sulfate with some success, but have limited application due to being cautious about maintaining oxygen levels in this heat. I did put in about 20lbs of tilapia (6") in may, but they did not even get close to keeping up - the algea has expanded significantly in the past 6 weeks

The good news is that the weed has created great cover for establishing the bluegill - I think I'm good here. But I don't want this problem next year

So - several questions.

Is there anything I should do at this time of year?

Is the Pondweed going to die during this winter?

What do I do to make sure this problem doesn't come back next year?


David, where in N.E. Texas are you located?
We have several PB members located in what we call N.E. Texas.....problem is most folks out side Texas don't realize that "N.E.” Texas is larger than many states.. grin
Our ponds in Delta County are located in transitional Blackland Prarie/Post Oak Savannah” – FireIsHot in Hopkins County which is “Post Oak Savannah” - High Flyer in transitional Post Oak Savannah/Piney Woods. There are others in our area with much pond experience.

Water chemistry is highly variable across this area – drastic changes from high alkalinity/hardness in Blackland Prarie to highly acidic water in Piney Woods.
Have you had your water tested?

Rainman recommendations for tilapia and grass carp are well taken.
Based on my experience with a new pond with clear water I would place grass carp on first priority to handle aquatic vegetation first, and tilapia following years if your water became more turbid – so “it all depends” on your location.

So - several questions.

Is there anything I should do at this time of year?
Grass carp

Is the Pondweed going to die during this winter?
Not in our pond.

What do I do to make sure this problem doesn't come back next year?
Grass carp this year – FireIsHot has current experience.
Tilapia next spring and each following year – 20 lbs/year recommended but I get good results from about 10 lbs/acre.


Welcome to another N.E. Texan
George

ps: Bill Cody was typing faster that I... grin
We need to know where in N.E. Texas you are located.
In my area pond weeds will be a lesser problem after first year or so - water primrose will dominate and give more "cover" than needed - GC WILL eat water primrose.
Other aquatic vegetation may be a problem - FireIsHot is very knowledgeable and currently managing his program.
G/

Last edited by george1; 09/01/14 11:10 AM.


N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
Original george #173 (22 June 2002)




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I am just northwest of Paris, (lamar county) - not quite on the red river -

I did test my water in April -
Bicarbonate 148 ppm
pH 6.84
Alkalinity 121 ppm CaCO3

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Thanks

How do I contact - FireIsHot?

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Fo to user list in the bar above, find him, click on his name and send him a personal message.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
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I'd suggest up to double the suggested Tilapia stocking rate next year if you choose not to use chemical control. The extra Tilapia will be a huge forage producer for your LMB and once the FA is consumed, the T will do some great work on the pondweed. After the heavy stocking, you can use fewer pounds to maintain FA and other aquatic plant control much more easily.



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Originally Posted By: Rainman
I'd suggest up to double the suggested Tilapia stocking rate next year if you choose not to use chemical control. The extra Tilapia will be a huge forage producer for your LMB and once the FA is consumed, the T will do some great work on the pondweed. After the heavy stocking, you can use fewer pounds to maintain FA and other aquatic plant control much more easily.

Rex, I assume you are addressing the “suggested” stocking rate is from by previous post?
If so, you may be correct in doubling to normal Texas tilapia rate of 20 lbs/acre – IF – conditions merit. I don’t believe in blanket recommendations, especially from northern sources for Texas ponds.

My Mozambique tilapia stocking rates are based on seasonal observations that may vary year to year.
I have not found Mozambique tilapia to have ANY obvious effect on pondweed - Grass carp do that job very well and don’t have to be stocked every year.



N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
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Originally Posted By: DavidBiss
I am just northwest of Paris, (lamar county) - not quite on the red river -

I did test my water in April -
Bicarbonate 148 ppm
pH 6.84
Alkalinity 121 ppm CaCO3

David, we are near neighbors – about 20 miles south of Paris.
Notice your favorite fish is LMB - what is status of stocking program?

George Glazener

Last edited by george1; 09/01/14 07:01 PM.


N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
Original george #173 (22 June 2002)




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Originally Posted By: george1
Originally Posted By: Rainman
I'd suggest up to double the suggested Tilapia stocking rate next year if you choose not to use chemical control. The extra Tilapia will be a huge forage producer for your LMB and once the FA is consumed, the T will do some great work on the pondweed. After the heavy stocking, you can use fewer pounds to maintain FA and other aquatic plant control much more easily.

Rex, I assume you are addressing the “suggested” stocking rate is from by previous post?
If so, you may be correct in doubling to normal Texas tilapia rate of 20 lbs/acre – IF – conditions merit. I don’t believe in blanket recommendations, especially from northern sources for Texas ponds.

My Mozambique tilapia stocking rates are based on seasonal observations that may vary year to year.
I have not found Mozambique tilapia to have ANY obvious effect on pondweed - Grass carp do that job very well and don’t have to be stocked every year.




Yes George, I meant the rates of Mozambique in that pond's geographic area. I also agree that a site survey by someone very knowledgeable with Tilapia and aquatic vegetation control would be best, but who knows if that's possible here.

Tilapia will not, from my experience, have any "obvious" effect, unless overstocked. Tilapia will not eat much of anything till all FA is consumed and once that happens, IF it happens, the Tilapia will eat almost anything and make obvious impacts. That is why in heavily vegetated ponds, double, even triple the normal area stocking rate for the first year only can be a very useful management strategy.




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