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Joined: Aug 2014
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 7 |
Need some insight. Excavated, enlarged, reshaped existing pond (created from former owner who was excavating sand and didn't take care of). Downhill side edges are lined with blue clay. Have pump n dump geo - well water (mine and neighbors) feeding pond water. Have a control water leveling system.
Current depths: 17' (1/2) and 9' (1/2) separated by a path created while trucking out blue clay (about 5' deep).
Can lower level 3ft if needed. Still has about 4' to fill to be to desired level.
This week I noticed algae starting to form on the outer edges. Looks like it's a chara algae???
I've read a bunch of posts... too many items to decipher. Any insight with first steps would be great.
We've had a lot of rain within last week and it's been hot and humid. I'm guessing some of the fertilizer we put on our newly seeded lawn made its way to the pond. There is also grass/weeds along the edge that are now submerged in the water and more soon to be once water rises. I pulled a bunch out (roots and all). Also cut and removed some of the grass.
Goal: want a clear pond my kids can swim in. Remedies: 1. How to get rid of the algae (now and preventative moving forward)? - Chemicals? Plants? Dye? 2. Fish? I can get fish from DNR (bass, carp, blue gail). Unfortunately found out Talapia aren't an option living in Iowa. 3. How to best kill off grass/weeds on edges not under water? 4. Is putting rock along the outside edges the best? Any grasses/plants suitable?
Pond right now is a little over 1 acre, and will be about 1 1/2 when water is at full height.
Thanks in advance for your insight. Very much appreciated!!!!
Will post pictures once I figure out how too..
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Joined: Aug 2014
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OP
Joined: Aug 2014
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Hang in there. Someone will be along to help you out. Welcome to the forum. All I can give ya is reduce nutrients into pond and that will help with algae. There are special sprays for the weeds by a pond.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315 |
Well BigWoods, if you want it for swimming I would look into a fish to control mosquitoes. Possibly FHM? Also stock some RES in there to control the snails for swimmers itch. If it's too cold for RES, then stock pumpkinseed.
Are you worried about the grass around the edges as the pond fills? I wouldn't be. It would keep erosion down till it fills, and keeps the water cleaner. Once the water covers it, they will mostly die back. Then worry about spraying what that don't kill. Don't put catfish in if you want a clear pond. If you don't get any response to the weed problem with types of spray to use, you might try posting a question in the "aquatic vegetion" section.
-- Don't stock carp either!!!!
Last edited by fish n chips; 09/01/14 06:29 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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Big Woods, do you want to fish it also, or just swim?
If You want swimming only, and do not want anything nipping you, do NOT stock any bluegill or pumpkinseed fish. Redear Sunfish (RES) as FnC suggested, and Fathead minnows would be a good option, along with 5-10, same sex LMB per acre to control numbers. Contrary to what FnC said, I would suggest 12 Grass carp per acre to control aquatic vegetation once it is seen, but not until you have aquatic plants.
Nothing is going to stop FA, but dye can help lessen it in the deeper parts.
LEAVE the grass that will be submerged in time!!! It will stabilize the soil to lessen/prevent erosion/silt and decay quickly once submerged.
You may also want to add rip rap around the pond edges to about a 4' depth with a good dye to lessen FA growth. I would also add a few channel catfish (5 per acre) as the clean up crew for dead fish that will always be there eventually. (Catch and replace the CC about every 3 years to keep them from getting too big)
If wanting to fish the pond also, with the typical Bass-Bluegill combo, you WILL get nipped by the BG when swimming. I would still add 20% of the BG stocked with RES. You are in a fertile area, so you could base a stocking on 800 BG, 200 RES and 75-100 LMB per surface acre. Add about 20 pounds of FHM per acre as soon as possible.
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Joined: Sep 2011
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When I said carp, for some reason wasn't even thinking "grass" carp . But I was also thinking that he wants clear water to swim (stated goal).
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Yellow perch also make excellent snail and leech eaters, and stay out of the way when you are swimming. To control numbers use walleye.
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Joined: Aug 2014
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Joined: Aug 2014
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Thanks for the advice.
I ordered some Cutrine-Plus Algaecide and Shore Klear. From what I'm reading I should leave the grass alone (we have had a fair bit of erosion given how much rain we have had, coupled with we have really sandy soil.
I'm ok stocking the pond if it's the best way to maintain a healthy system and achieve the goal of a clear pond to swim in. My daughters won't swim likely if fish are nibbling them (which means no blue gill).
You have to help me with all the acronyms.
Why are carp bad for a clear pond?
Is it possible to have a clear pond and no/little algae with no fish?
Is there a plastic or ??? To put down under the rip rap rock???
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,099 Likes: 23
Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame Lunker
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Big Woods, FnC (Fish n Chips), I think, was talking about common carp....Those fish root in the bottom sediments, reproduce a lot, and would keep the water Muddied. Yes, it is possible to have a clear pond with no algae, but those are called swimming pools... Lots of chlorine and filtration required which will make the soils toxic, eventually. A geotextile fabric would be great under any rip rap. Acronym info is here.... Acronyms
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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I ordered some Cutrine-Plus Algaecide and Shore Klear. From what I'm reading I should leave the grass alone (we have had a fair bit of erosion given how much rain we have had, coupled with we have really sandy soil.
Make sure you understand the instructions on how (or rather how much) to apply of the Cutrine Plus. If the proper concentration isn't reached according to what algae you have, it won't do much good, and you could be starting to "train" copper resistant algae. You have to figure out the water volume, then spray the required amount of Curine Plus. Remember it's in acre-feet, not surface acres.
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Joined: Aug 2014
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Joined: Aug 2014
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The ice on our pond is just about fully melted off... had warm weather for a week (60's)... was 44 deg today... I already see a handful of new FA forming.
When is the earliest one would suggest using any of the following:
1. Blue Dye? 2. Cutrine-Plus Algaecide spray?
Our pond is now 20+ feet deep in some places and consistently 17 ft deep across 2/3rds of it (1 acre worth). If I do my calculations for Cutrine... I'd need around 26 gallons for one application (22 acre-ft). This seems like a LOT.
I seen some post mention granular algaecide for deeper waters and using spray where depths are 2' and under.
Wanting to be as proactive as possible, while being wise with my resources. Is there a method/order or sequence of when its best to use dye versus algaecide (or both)?
The amount of algaecide would take a long time to apply given the dilution required for spraying out of my 4 gallon hand sprayer.
Thanks in advance!
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Joined: Jan 2008
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Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
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Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
Hi Big Woods, from Lincoln here. Where in IA are you?
I have never treated FA, just waited for my rooted vegetation to establish and it helps utilize the nutrients necessary for FA growth. How old is the pond, and can you tell us about your aquatic vegetation? Do you have anything going yet other than FA?
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 7
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OP
Joined: Aug 2014
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Cedar Falls
Pond got started about 20 years ago when prev owner started taking sand out (very sandy soil). Original pond was only two small excavated areas roughly 1/2 acre. Weeds, grass, small shrubs, trees where on most of the area which now our pond. Our pond was filled over the fall/winter from well water used in our GEO system (pump n dump)
We dug pond Sept 2013. Lucked out that we found nice blue clay under the sand and lined most if it with it. 2014 was spent building house and getting grass/lawn started to minimize erosion.
I started looking into vegetation now... seen suggestions on native blue water iris, Louisiana iris, pickerel plant, several types of spike rush, variegated sweet flag. Also seen Arrowhead, lizards tail.
Appreciate your insight and suggestions.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
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Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
What species are you considering for your fishery?
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 7
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OP
Joined: Aug 2014
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Stocked bluegill this past fall. Will get large mouth bass this coming June.
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