Pond Boss Forums AQUATIC VEGETATION Controlling unwanted plants Trouble with Pithophora (Horse Hair) Algae

Hello - Not a new topic but one I've been on losing battle of this year and have tried multiple things.

1. Cutrine Plus granular had zero effect on this algae.

2. Used lots of beneficial bacteria: initial results were promising, but eventually the horse hair algae out competed the bacteria.

3. Hired out a contractor they applied K-Tea, but in 3 days the horse hair algae was actually worse, probably from their small boat and sprayer stiring things up from bottom.

4. Same contractor tried Hydrothol 191, again looked fine for about 2-3 days, then actually worse so they got fired.

Now I'm back to square one, have the horse hair algae starting to take over again (after I manually removed it all painfully over an entire weekend, good 10 hours of pulling stuff out).

Ideas??

Thanks.
Ron

Let me add couple other notes which might help if anyone is willing to share some ideas to aid me in resolving this issue.

- I always remove the dead algae when I've used any algeacides.
- Do not use any fertilizer near or around the pond.
- Pond is 12 years old and I added bottom aeration (vertex diffuser) last June.
- max depth of 16 feet, average depth 4 feet, gentle slope on sides, but basically oval bowl shaped (0.40 surface acre size)
- currently no additional beneficial weeds/plants (something want to do) but having trouble finding supplier in SE Michigan of pond plants/bassweed.
- fully stocked pond (LMB, SMB, NP, Bluegill, CC)

Thanks and always appreciate the feedback from the knowledge base of the pond boss forum members.

Ron

Horsehair green FA can be a BIG problem as you are seeing. Technically Pithophora to my knowledge does not grow in MI. Mostly only algae geeks know this. What you have is very probably Cladophora a world-wide very common horsehair-like algae and can have a lot of morphological variation thus making it sometimes hard to identify. Pithophora is primarily a subtopical or tropical species similar to coppernose bluegill. The main technical difference between Pithophora and Cladophora is Cladaphora rarely produces resting spores and Pithophora commonly has spores with branching that occurs close to or near the crosswalls. Both start growth attached to the bottom or surfaces, get long and stringy and eventually float to the surface in big masses. Anyway both are very problematic algae species. Your algae problem still exists regardless of what its technical name is.

Best natural controls are tilapia and possibly white amur aka grass carp, however neither are legal in MI. Your other best natural approach would be to introduce competitive plants to cover the bottom and out compete the FA with a bottom covered by rooted plants competing for both nutrients and space.

Another option to control this is to try products by Aquafix from a company associated with Univ Wisconsin Madison WI.. They have a recent newsletter that described products that controlled problematic Cladophora and Pithophora. Search for copies of their Winter 2014 and Spring 2014 newsletters. www.naturalake.com

Ron,
Michigan must be a mecca for algae. My pond has more than last year of the same tenacious stuff. Easy to rake, but tons of work, also hard to separate and breakup once it is on shore. My pond is basically same size as your and I aerate as well. I have very clear water and a current explosion of milfoil this year (eurasian) I have some other noninvasive plants/weeds that came in naturally. I just keep up with the basics and hope it doesn't get worse from year to year. I'm sure I get some rain induced fertilizer runoff from my yard to the pond as it all slopes that way but I'm not crazy about filling my pond with chemicals constantly.

I only have minnows, crayfish, grass shrimp and tilapia in my pond right now.

I'm all ears on what else can be tried outside of raking.

I've read that bottom much traps nutrients. I'm tempted to bring in a big outboard, better yet a jet ski or something that can direct or recirculate a water stream under pressure to help stir up the bottom. The aerator helps but doesn't stir up the silt.

Bill - really appreciate the feedback, I'll review the suggestion. I was only told by the weed removal company they said it was Pithophora and from pics I looked at it fit the description, like you said either way the algae I have is tough to get rid of. Thanks again for your suggestion and will update with results of what I do next. Ron

When comes to microscopic algae very few treatment companies actually examine it with a microscope and few even know what specific features to look for. They basically go by what someone else told them or used by example. Aquafix (naturalake) actually has educated, experienced and specialized staff to examine and develop methodologies to deal with algae and nutrient issues. They specialize in that type of work. I have no relationship to Aquafix other than knowing what they do and reading their newsletters that explain their success stories. They are Pond Boss advertisers and Conference participants. If you contact them, I think they will be glad to send you copies of the newsletters and maybe other info that deal with Cladophora and Pithophora. Cladophora and Pithophora are results of nutrient balance issues. Competition from other plant species also plays a big role in nutrient balance of ponds and lakes.


Ponds and lake are nutrient sinks in that more nutrients collect or accumulate in the basin every day; even if is only one bird pooping in the pond. More collection results in more nutrient potential to grow more plants. It is called lake succession and results in the aging process of ponds and lakes; new to old, a continuum until the basin returns to a swamp, wetlands, and eventually dry land.

One correction, Bill. Tilapia are now legal to stock in Michigan, however, delivering to Michigan is a bureaucratic nightmare of unpublished regulations.

SE Michigan has one of the best natural lake area's I have ever been around. Lots of vacations there. The lakes would be a storehouse in itself for plants if you can identify the plants you want.

Just don't forget that most of these problems can be taken care of with plants and fish. Plants to use up nutrients and add oxygen and plant and bug foods Grass carp to control too many plants, KOI and Israeli carp for algae. Bass to keep the KOI and Israeli's under control. Then it comes down to tweaking, managing with the numbers.

Again appreciate the time to respond. If I were to add some plants to the pond what would be good ones to add? I was originally thinking some kind of submerged broadleaf pondweed (good for the bass and pike and other fish) but having trouble finding any sellers of such weeds, might have to go to local lake and pull some to bring home.

Very few if any places sell the broadleaf pondweed aka cabbage. Go to the local lakes and choose short growing types of plants that are mostly in shallow water or the shoreline. I would transplant them then into tubs in our pond then do homework - research about them. When satisfied transplant them into your pond.

Bill is the absolute expert on pond weed. Also if you do some Googling for plants for southern Michigan lake plants and enter a specific kind you may find the plants you are interested in and find where they are located in particular lakes. I have done this for Indiana lakes.

Thanks again to all that have responded and Bill and John on suggestions for obtaining the lake/pond plants to hopefully out-compete the nuisance algae. Ron

What about hybrid lilies? They can really absorb some serious nutrients, and make good cover and pretty flowers. Just don't introduce natural lilies or they will take over as they can be quite aggressive.