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Ambassador Lunker
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Hey ya'll I am glad this section is here on the Boss. I am really thinking about getting into fly fishing on my pond. I have never done it and don't know anything about it hardly so I am going to do a lot of reading in this area first before I start thowing out all kinds of questions. I am just glad it's here for me to read about. When I say I don't know anything I really don't? Lines / reels/ rods/ I have no idea what a 5wt means??? or a 7wt? No clue on type of line I need..... I don't really want to spend big bucks doing it but would like a decent setup. Should be interesting.... Good to know you all are here for when I bomb you with all kinds of questions!!  RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Don't over analyze it.
Get one of the combo fly fishing rigs from Cabela's or Bass Pro, and watch an online video or two, and you'll be good to go (for at least getting started and experiencing it).
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
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I had a couple of gift cards for Bass Pro and bought their 5wt combo...It is easy to use and set up with all the right things to get you started on the right track... They also have a nice little pamphlet that explained the basics of fly fishing and equipment..
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Fingerling
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Fingerling
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If there isn't someone around who can show you how to cast, get on YouTube. There's alot of videos to get you started. Then just give it a try, it doesn't have to look pretty - trust me.
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Thanks guys. It may be a couple of weeks yet as I am going on vacation Thursday. But as luck would have it I do have a gift card for Bass Pro so I just may use it for that when I get back. Until then I will read and watch.
I am concerned most about tieing these lines together with what they call a nail not? I need to figure that out..
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Lunker
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RC, I just started this at the 1st of this year. It takes a little bit of experimenting to get it down but it's not that hard to do. The main thing I learned when getting started was not to be "limp wristed". You have to keep you wrist and forearm straight and a small pause between the forward cast and back cast in the order for the rod to "load". Watch some videos like the others said. That's how I started until I spent a few hours with George so he could straighten me out! I watched Lefty Kreh and another guy but I forget his name.
It's true hard work never killed anybody, but I figure, why take the chance?
Ronald Reagan
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The good Brian
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame 2014 Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame 2014 Lunker
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The nail knot it not necessary anymore....
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
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Joined: Jul 2009
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The nail knot it not necessary anymore.... OK? so how do tie line to line then? Or dont you? Do you use just 1 line and then a leader line? RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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We may have to get george/Hef to comment, or someone who's more into it than I am.
You've got what's called the 'backing.' That's the first line that goes onto the real. It's kind of like a braided line, IIRC; I haven't seen mine in about 20 years 'cause it's original!
Attached to that is where you have your actual fly line. That can be many different types such as floating, sinking, tapered, weight forward, etc.
Onto the end of the fly line, you'll attached this 'loop' with some kind of braided mesh that slides over the tip of the fly line. It gets held in place by a 'collar' that is slid over the top of the braided mesh.
To that loop, you attach the leader. To the end of the leader, you tie the fly. As the leader gets shorter from losing flies, etc, you can extend it by adding 'tippet.'
To my memory, the only place the nail knot may still be necessary would be the backing to the fly line.
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Jun 2007
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Hey ya'll I am glad this section is here on the Boss. I am really thinking about getting into fly fishing on my pond. I have never done it and don't know anything about it hardly so I am going to do a lot of reading in this area first before I start thowing out all kinds of questions. I am just glad it's here for me to read about. When I say I don't know anything I really don't? Lines / reels/ rods/ I have no idea what a 5wt means??? or a 7wt? No clue on type of line I need..... I don't really want to spend big bucks doing it but would like a decent setup. Should be interesting.... Good to know you all are here for when I bomb you with all kinds of questions!! RC RC, sorry to be late to the party but spent a great morning with FireIsHot, his adult supervisor, and Mrs, G. to keep us on our best behavior! Man, has he ever got a beautiful place! We are neighbors about 30 miles north or might I say son jeff's place about 30 miles north. Sunil and Cisco have pretty well nailed it but go back to the original thread and read Dusty Abney's post - it's a classic! After reading all the stuff, several of us on the forum can address your questions. A 5 or 6 wt combo rig is good advice - if you can get to Cabela's before Fathers Day they have a heck of sale going on right now - really good deals on combo units. Don't worry about line weights right now - the combo units are rigged and ready to fish - but if you really just can't stand to wait for an answer, the weight is determined by the "grain" weight of the first 30 ft of the line - often called the belly - it's larger diameter than the running line portion. That's what you are casting - the fly just goes along for the ride. Head for the nearest Cabelas before the sale ends if you can - otherwise i have another recommendation for a starter combo. Enough talk - typing on Jeff's computer is burning daylight - Ive got a handy little 4 wt fly rod just waiting to head for the pond. Good luck - fire away on questions but no answers until i get back home....  George
N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
Original george #173 (22 June 2002)
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Hey thanks guys! Going to get a setup soon. Once I have it and it's in hand I am sure I will have more questions. I think I get the basic line setup and all. I do have bass in my pond so I may look for a 6wt combo setup. George thanks for the heads up on the cabela's deal??? I don't have one around here but I do have a BPS.. and a 50 dollar gift card! So I may do some shopping soon! RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Lunker
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RC
I found a Temple Fork Outfitters combo on line for $149 and it works great. I've also heard of many people the use either a Basspro or Cabela's, etc. combos and really like them also. Anything that'll get you started. I figured it was going to be a lot of work but it really isn't. At least for now, I'm still learning though.
It's true hard work never killed anybody, but I figure, why take the chance?
Ronald Reagan
_______________
The good Brian
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RC51, fly fishing really brings the newness and fun back to fishing.
Cisco's advice is right on target. I've never heard of anyone who had too slow of a back cast to forward cast transition. If you wait on the rod to load, everything else is easy.
AL
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Agreed, I haven't used a fly rod since I was a youngster, probably early teen years...
Bought the combo and took it out of the box tied on a fly went right to fishing...Only hear the dreaded snap of the fly maybe once an outing... And have only lost one fly due to snagging the grass behind me because I was standing at the ponds edge which is about 4 foot below grade...
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Joined: Jun 2014
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Joined: Jun 2014
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Hey ya'll I am glad this section is here on the Boss. I am really thinking about getting into fly fishing on my pond. I have never done it and don't know anything about it hardly so I am going to do a lot of reading in this area first before I start thowing out all kinds of questions. I am just glad it's here for me to read about. When I say I don't know anything I really don't? Lines / reels/ rods/ I have no idea what a 5wt means??? or a 7wt? No clue on type of line I need..... I don't really want to spend big bucks doing it but would like a decent setup. Should be interesting.... Good to know you all are here for when I bomb you with all kinds of questions!! RC See if I can help. 5wt or 7 wt. basically it has to do with how heavy the line is. that's what you cast, the line. the bigger the number the heavier the line. It should be noted that the rod is heavier/stronger to cast a heavier line. So a rod for a 1wt line is pretty small and frail compared to a 10 wt rod. To decide 5 wt or 7wt I would ask the question what do you want to catch with it? Bluegills and smaller bass under 15"? a 5wt is great. If your going to try and catch big bass over 15" and up, maybe 20" plus then even a 7wt would be OK. If your fishing in a pond with no places the fish can get into and tangle your line up so they can get away or break off then even a 5wt would be OK. Only be aware that the longer you fight a fish the worse it is for it if you plan to release it. One other thing is the size of the fly your casting. a tiny little fly is easy for any rod to cast. But if your trying to cast a popper or large fly for larger bass then you'll struggle more with the 5wt. Type of line to get?, get the weight that the rod is designed for. Get a weight forward floating or WF. So for a 5wt rod you'd get a WF5F, weight forward 5wt floating. Best all around line for a basic fly set-up. The weight forward describes the line profile, without too much detail the a WF line has a heavier front section that results in making it easier to cast. no you don't need to spend big bucks to get started.
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The nail knot it not necessary anymore.... OK? so how do tie line to line then? Or dont you? Do you use just 1 line and then a leader line? RC nail knot is used, was used to attach different sized lines together. Usually the fly line to the leader. I would suggest that when you buy your fly line you get one that has looped ends. It has loops on both ends. Then you buy a leader that is also looped on one end. you can then attach the the leader to the fly line with no knots. You just slide the loop on the leader over the loop on the fly line far enough so that you can take the end of the leader (the end with out the loop) and pass it thru the loop on the fly line and pull it all tight. The 2 loops end up locking together and your set. easy peasy. The only other place that a nail knot was and still is used is for tying a tippet on the end of the leader. Instead I would recommend a double surgeon knot. much easier to tie. Or you can tie a loop on the end of your leader and one on the end of you tippet and then no knots are needed when changing tippets.
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We may have to get george/Hef to comment, or someone who's more into it than I am.
You've got what's called the 'backing.' That's the first line that goes onto the real. It's kind of like a braided line, IIRC; I haven't seen mine in about 20 years 'cause it's original!
Attached to that is where you have your actual fly line. That can be many different types such as floating, sinking, tapered, weight forward, etc.
Onto the end of the fly line, you'll attached this 'loop' with some kind of braided mesh that slides over the tip of the fly line. It gets held in place by a 'collar' that is slid over the top of the braided mesh.
To that loop, you attach the leader. To the end of the leader, you tie the fly. As the leader gets shorter from losing flies, etc, you can extend it by adding 'tippet.'
To my memory, the only place the nail knot may still be necessary would be the backing to the fly line. pretty much right would add the following. on the end of the fly line. Get a fly line with a loop. Get a leader with a loop. then you can attach the 2 without a knot, easier to change in the future. Do away with the braided mesh and the collars, just more complications. keep it simple, loop to loop. Leader is for the most part a tapered line (usually mono) that is thick next to the fly line and is tapered down to whatever pound test you want the tip. usually they are called 1x, 2x, 5x or so on. don't worry about the x's. Just look/ask for about what pound test you want. Also available in different lengths. Commonly 7 1/2 or 9ft. So you'd ask for a 7 1/2 ft 8 pound leader. the taper on the leader helps you to cast the fly so it lays out in a nice straight line when you cast. A transition more or less from the heavy fly line to the fine line (usually mono)that you tie your fly onto. Now if you want you can tie your fly right to the leader. But when you tie on a different fly (trees love to eat flies) because of loosing one or deciding to try a different one you loosse a little bit of the tapered leader. After a dozen reties you'll start getting into heavier and heavier leader. So at certain point that heavier leader may cause spookier fish to shy away from your fly. So to avoid this issue one ties on a tippet. a tippet is about 2-3 ft of commonly just plain old mono of what ever pound test you want to use. You then tie you fly right to this. then after changing your fly a bunch of times you'll use up the tippet, you cut it offf and tie on a new tippet. starting the process all over again. A clever guy may ask "why not just use the tapered leader up and put on a new one?". Cost, the usually cost a couple of dollars. Straight mono for the tippet is dirt cheap. So in the long run its more economical to use tippet. Now if you tie a loop on the end of you leader and you tie a loop on the start of your tippets you'll just about never need a new leader. So you need to tie a loop knot. once you have your leader on
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Lunker
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We may have to get george/Hef to comment, or someone who's more into it than I am.
You've got what's called the 'backing.' That's the first line that goes onto the real. It's kind of like a braided line, IIRC; I haven't seen mine in about 20 years 'cause it's original!
Attached to that is where you have your actual fly line. That can be many different types such as floating, sinking, tapered, weight forward, etc.
Onto the end of the fly line, you'll attached this 'loop' with some kind of braided mesh that slides over the tip of the fly line. It gets held in place by a 'collar' that is slid over the top of the braided mesh.
To that loop, you attach the leader. To the end of the leader, you tie the fly. As the leader gets shorter from losing flies, etc, you can extend it by adding 'tippet.'
To my memory, the only place the nail knot may still be necessary would be the backing to the fly line. pretty much right would add the following. on the end of the fly line. Get a fly line with a loop. Get a leader with a loop. then you can attach the 2 without a knot, easier to change in the future. Do away with the braided mesh and the collars, just more complications. keep it simple, loop to loop. Leader is for the most part a tapered line (usually mono) that is thick next to the fly line and is tapered down to whatever pound test you want the tip. usually they are called 1x, 2x, 5x or so on. don't worry about the x's. Just look/ask for about what pound test you want. Also available in different lengths. Commonly 7 1/2 or 9ft. So you'd ask for a 7 1/2 ft 8 pound leader. the taper on the leader helps you to cast the fly so it lays out in a nice straight line when you cast. A transition more or less from the heavy fly line to the fine line (usually mono)that you tie your fly onto. Now if you want you can tie your fly right to the leader. But when you tie on a different fly (trees love to eat flies) because of loosing one or deciding to try a different one you loosse a little bit of the tapered leader. After a dozen reties you'll start getting into heavier and heavier leader. So at certain point that heavier leader may cause spookier fish to shy away from your fly. So to avoid this issue one ties on a tippet. a tippet is about 2-3 ft of commonly just plain old mono of what ever pound test you want to use. You then tie you fly right to this. then after changing your fly a bunch of times you'll use up the tippet, you cut it offf and tie on a new tippet. starting the process all over again. A clever guy may ask "why not just use the tapered leader up and put on a new one?". Cost, the usually cost a couple of dollars. Straight mono for the tippet is dirt cheap. So in the long run its more economical to use tippet. Now if you tie a loop on the end of you leader and you tie a loop on the start of your tippets you'll just about never need a new leader. So you need to tie a loop knot. once you have your leader on Dirk, good posts - where you been? Just noticed your 5 posts so if I missed it - welcome to Pond Boss and especially the Pond Fly Fishing thread . …you know of what you speak! Dirk, good posts - where you been? Just noticed your 5 posts so if I missed it - welcome to Pond Boss and especially the Pond Fly Fishing thread . …you know of what you speak! RC, this is such a good thread, would you mind if we could get Sunil or one of the mods to transfer this thread to Pond Fly Tackle? http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=363041#Post363041How ‘bout it Sunil? George
Last edited by george1; 06/14/14 06:02 AM. Reason: link
N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
Original george #173 (22 June 2002)
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Fingerling
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Fingerling
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I feel stupid sometimes... I've always used the loop-to-loop knot to connect leader to fly line, but somehow I never thought of attaching tippet using loops, that would be way easier. Good tip, Dirk! Here's a video showing the loop to loop or "handshake" knot as they call it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ni4V-kN0LMI
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Hall of Fame 2014 Lunker
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vamaz, I also use the 'loop to loop' method to connect tippet back to the original leader.
Seems to work OK, but perhaps just isn't 'purist' enough??
george, we are still trying to reduce the number of sections on the overall forum, but that effort has stalled out cold! I'm sure we can add some other fly fishing categories, but it'll be part of the overall pairing down effort.
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,794
Lunker
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Lunker
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Sunil, just talking about copy and paste thread on Pond Fly Tackle topic that already exists.
IMO this thread is too valuable to be lost under a"Umm thinking hard about this" topic .......
N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
Original george #173 (22 June 2002)
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I'll see what I can do, george. I don't know if I can copy/past an entire thread.
Excerpt from Robert Crais' "The Monkey's Raincoat:"
"She took another microscopic bite of her sandwich, then pushed it away. Maybe she absorbed nutrients from her surroundings."
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,794
Lunker
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Lunker
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Thanks Sunil - get Dirks's post pasted over there if you can because it is an excellent summary - IMO. Please excuse - I meant "please" and "thank you"... G/
Last edited by george1; 06/14/14 12:38 PM. Reason: thanks!
N.E. Texas 2 acre and 1/4 acre ponds
Original george #173 (22 June 2002)
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[/quote]
Dirk, good posts - where you been?
Just noticed your 5 posts so if I missed it - welcome to Pond Boss and especially the Pond Fly Fishing thread . …you know of what you speak!
George [/quote]
George, I fish long and hard every spring and fall for Steelhead. All with a fly rod of course. So I haven't had any free time til lately, or you referring to just on Pond Boss? I just joined Pond Boss yesterday. Looking to buy property with pond or with ability to put pond on.
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Oh, forgot to say, Great Website!!
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