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Ok I have a question not really sure how to ask it but I'll try.
I noticed in my pond I have a bunch of smaller bass this year in the 7 to 9 inch range. So last year I must have had a successful spawn.
In stead of trying to remove all of them which I know won't happen. If I catch a 2 pounder and remove it instead of an 8 incher how does that equal out? Can I remove 1 or 2 larger bass and keep 4 smaller ones? Or don't it work that way? Just wondering what to do or how?
Thanks, RC
Last edited by RC51; 05/22/14 01:01 PM.
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Usually, people here talk about how may pounds of LMB to remove per year. So the number of fish isn't as important as weight. In unfertilized ponds, the general statement is 10 lbs/year. for fertilized, typically they say 10 lbs/year. This could be much different depending on your specific situation. I typically try to meet my quota with LMB < 14 inches. However, here is also a theory that in a LMB crowded pond where the LMB are stunted, you may be better off taking the larger ones because they'll never reach their potential but the smaller ones have a chance assuming some changes are made to have more/better forage, better water quality/etc.
1 ac pond LMB, BG, RES, CC
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So it's 10 lbs/year no matter what??? LOL!
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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I'm guessing that's 10 LB per acre per year?
Dale "When tempted to fight fire with fire, remember that the Fire Department usually uses water." - anonymous
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Sorry for the confusion... 10lbs/acre/year is a general suggestion for southern ponds that will typically become LMB crowded without good management.
Another theory I read here that makes a lot of sense is that you should remove every LMB that you catch that is under the standard weight for his length.
1 ac pond LMB, BG, RES, CC
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Yes RW's are important for sure. I have also read like you said above that younger bass may grow to their full potential v.s. older and possibly stunted bass. My bass don't apprear to be stunted but was just wondering if there was a ratio the other direction if I kept 1, LMB at 3 pounds can I then keep blah number of small bass. That could be a bit tricky though as smaller bass won't be eating the same size fish and that 3 pounder.... so I guess I better stick to just trying to get rid of as many of those small ones as I can. And keep checking my RW's.
thanks, RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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I plan on removing bass larger than 15" when they get that big RC. But my goal is for larger panfish (this was suggested to me by Bruce). So I think you can remove whichever fish you choose, but I would do so based on the goals of the pond.
I hope I'm not way off on this, but that's how it was explained to me.
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Yeah my problem is I am wanting both decent sized bass and nice size BG so in order to have my cake and eat it too! I need to come up with a happy medium. So far I have done that but last year was the first year I had a actual LMB spawn so now I am going oh boy I got all these little guys running around in my pond now eating all my fish. So I was just wondering if I could put a differnet spin on it and instead of trying to catch them little ones every one of them. If I caught a larger bass would it equate to say taking 3, 9 inchers out. I know I know I am over thinking this I am sure! Either way I know I need to get rid of a few more for sure. Like DJ said maybe I should judge it on pounds per acre per year and RW's instead of how many to remove. RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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RC51,
Your last comment brings up an interesting point for an amateur such as myself.
If you were to remove the larger LMB and leave the smaller LMB, how would this affect your forage in the long run of the food chain?
I would imagine or assume, we all know what possibilities that brings, that your smaller BG would have to support the increasing smaller LMB thus over a period of time reducing the BG from getting to the supporting size for the remaining larger LMB.
Under a pond management point of thinking, would you not have to closely watch the BG sizes and ensure that your smaller LMB do not eat out the supporting size BG?
I also want to have large BG and large LMB so I catch & release my CNBG & BG 8" and larger and closely monitor my BG smaller sizes to ensure I am not lacking in one area of growth. If this were to take place then I am sure the LMB in that feeding range would go under RW rather quickly and then force you to reduce their numbers.
AM I thinking straight with my limited knowledge on pond management?
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Hey Coupe,
Yes your are thinking straight, but and there is always a but:) I also have a lot of FHM's in my pond for the smaller bass to eat as well. So they are not just eating BG all the time. And I have a lot of frogs may flies, I even have some crayfish. So they do have other stuff to eat. Plus remember a 8 inch bass can eat a 2 inch BG. You are correct in thinking that you do need all size type fish. They don't have to be BG only but yes you need to somehow support your smaller bass class if you have them. Also keep in mind mature BG's that are 7 plus inches can have up to 35,000 eggs in a summer. Just 1 BG. So that's a LOT of babies!! Of course if I were to catch any of the smaller 8 inch bass I would cull them because I know I am not going to catch them all! Then you can always check RW's once you do some culling.
RW's of your LMB is SOOOOO important and it doesn't take but about 30 seconds to get it if you have the chart! I have one on my phone so I can pull it up right away. Just remember getting RW's of your LMB when they are full of eggs can be misleading. Most guys will tell you to wait a few weeks after you know for sure spawning is done to get an actual weight true weight.
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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From a biomass standpoint, clobbering 1 3 pound bass in lieu of 6 1/2 pound might be right. However, it ignores the years classes that your pond needs to be balanced. If you don't eliminate the small bass, they will over eat the smaller bg that will then never get large enough to feed the bigger fish.
Feeding involves energy expended vs calories received and the bass does best on forage that is 1/4 to 1/3 it's body size. It's a matter of efficiency. If you force a 3 pound bass to try to make a living off minnows, it will expend too much energy feeding thus losing weight and body condition.
Last edited by Dave Davidson1; 05/28/14 06:28 AM.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
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Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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I could be wrong, but I am sure you will want to remove far more than 10# per year of LMB in a reproducing/maturing pond...I'd remove more like 50+ pounds per acre, per year of 10-14" fish that were under 100% RW. I'd also remove any larger LMB that were <80% RW
As to your question wondering whether to remove 1 larger bass in favor of leaving a few smaller ones, that would accelerate what happens to create overcrowding. You pond has X weight in carrying capacity. Each spawn, X is reached with more, smaller fish, generally speaking. There will always be at least a couple BG and LMB that break out and thrive, but they become the exception, not the rule.
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Dave and RM thanks for your input I aprecatie it! So catching the little ones it is then! I will do my best. Time to get out the little beatle spin and get to work!! RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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A mepps spinner works pretty good too.
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I went from a trout pond with some CC to a LMB, and Perch pond. Added 50 of each to the 3/4 acre pond which had FHM, and some sunfish. I ended up with LMB under 12" for at least 6 -7 years. Someone told me had too many predator fish. Started taking out as many LMB as I could. After about 4 -5 years of this all of a sudden spotted some bass pushing 5 -6#. Problem for me they were uncatchable. Solved that problem. Now trying something else, and going good. I would target small fish instead. Just a guess, but you could have 100 10" LMB, or 10 of much larger sizes.
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There is a fixed carrying capacity all things being equal (not adding a production enhancement like feeding or fertilizer which increase the capacity within limits). Its is theoretically possible to manage for the size and number of fish to fill that capacity that you want. It is not so easy to actually manage that way in reality. Running at full (or near full)carrying capacity is like running an engine at max rpm - it will break before long.
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Thanks Eric I will be at my pond Saturday and although it sure is hard to put that flyrod down now to catch my BG I will try and get a couple of them smaller bass out if I can.
The last couple times I have gone I have noticed my LMB, RW's were all about 1 to 2 oz below standard so I think I am headed the wrong way and need to rid my self of a few LMB at this point.
Here is one other quick question. If I were to keep say 7 nice BG to eat like 8 inches. Should I be keeping a certain amount of bass out at that point and if yes how many?
Thanks again, RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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