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RC51 Offline OP
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Hey everyone as some of you may know my DIY system has been running an Eco 7 plus air unit sence I put it all together.

Well my original one died this last spring after 4 years. Then Ted Lea was kind enough to send me one they were doing some testing with and it did not perform very well for them on their test.

Well he sent it to me to and I used it for a while but it also is now failing even on my system.

I may very well appear that my first pump I got was a GREAT one indeed as it worked quite well for a long time.

Well I have an oppurtunity to purchase a used GAST pump from a guy I know. And I may set it up and see how much better it runs for me. I am getting a lot invested at this point in my pond and I figured if I can upgrade at this point why not? Right?

I just have a few question though as I am new to this type of pump.

1. This pump has a inlet and outlet port so can I assume one is for suction and the other for pressure?

2. I am not sure how much pressure this pump will produce? Should I put a gang valve in place in my line to regulate pressure?

3. How often should I clean / replace the filters on this pump?

4. I am assuming 1/3 hp Gast is enough for my 1 acre pond thats 8 feet deep?

Thanks for ya'lls help!

RC

Last edited by RC51; 01/29/14 12:25 PM.

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Ok well then let me answer my own questions then someone please correct me if I am wrong.

1. yes

2. I can assume about 10 psi?

3. I have no idea?

4. It should be considering the pump I was using was smaller than this one.


RC

Last edited by RC51; 01/29/14 02:55 PM.

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RC, If its a 1/3 hp model 0523 it is one of the older (and perhaps better) than todays 1/4 HP replacement especially if it has a GE motor.The older GE models seem to be bullet proof. Clean out the felt internal filters every few months and keep an eye on the end cap Orings especially on the exhaust side as it will wear out twice as fast as the intake side.If its a Sweetwater pump made by Gast it may not have internal filters or end caps. If you use the factory intake filter (orange tube style)just use light compressed air or wash it off as the color fades and collects dust etc. Should last a few seasons.10 psi is the rating on it and should have about 4.2 cfm open flow.close off the exhaust and make sure you can maintain 10 psi and if yes the vanes are AOK.Look at the ser number and the first 4 numbers will be the month and year built.Hope this helps.

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RC51 Offline OP
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Hey Ted it says motor made by Emerson on it. Looks to be a 93 MOD. Serial number says 0593. He says it works fine...

It doesn't appear to have the intake filter. just have what looks like a threded nipple with some type of cork on it?? the modle number is. 0523-1010-G582DX

P.M.

Sent


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It looks just like this one same type of cork on it? Is that a factory thing? That don't look like a filter? Or is that the out side? You will have to forgive me I am new to these type pumps that's for sure!


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Last edited by RC51; 01/29/14 04:03 PM.

The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Thats a silencer not filter if the pump is being used for vaccum in a clean enviroment they are often used, medical apps etc.They will let large particles pass if used as a filer ( not good)Gast ships them with all vanes as far as I know.

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Looks like a sintered bronze muffler, sort of the same thing they used in older carburated auto in-line fuel filters (if they didn't use the pleated fiber ones).

I'd unscrew it and screw in a real filter. IIRC 3/8" or 1/2" pipe is the thread size.


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Thanks guys it is 3/8ths I appreciate the info.

RC


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Originally Posted By: esshup
I'd unscrew it and screw in a real filter.


+1

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RC Intake and exhaust may be 1/4 inch female NPT as Ive not known a 0523 to ever be a 3/8th.

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I gave an 0523 to esshup close to a couple years ago because I was A-Gast at the energy this was sucking!

Sorry Scott, but free is free, so to speak wink

Last edited by JKB; 01/30/14 05:12 PM.
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Still in the box!


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Originally Posted By: esshup
Still in the box!


Maybe try pawn it off on ebay and put the money toward a better rig. Maybe that 1023 as well.

Something to think about here - Gast 2567 with 2HP, dialed back to 1023 (10 CFM, while maintaining max pressure) will only eat about 300 watts.

RV's follow the Affinity Law's quite well, except they are a more Positive Displacement pump so they don't loose output pressure very quick, but will if you drop them too low.

I'll be calling a few more MFG's that make the pumps with the flat line across the chart rather than the curve or some sort of angle.

RC - I don't really know why Gast changed the motors on the 0523, but after messing with the numbers a bit, it appears that the engineers on the 1/3HP version were following motor load rules and bumped it up a bit for efficiency, rather than running it balls to the wall.

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RC51 Offline OP
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so are you telling me this motor sucks electricity real bad??? I should not have got it maybe? I only paid 75 bucks for it. Is that a good deal? Or did I get hosed?

RC


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JKB, I think I'll keep it and do like Cecil does - smaller pump in the winter when all the air isn't needed, and the larger one in the summer when it is.


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RC keep that pump -a real bargin and runs cheap IMO. It should last 20-30 yrs if you 'rebuild' the vanes a few times. It operates at close to 4-5 hrs per kilowatt of electricity. Check your power company rates for each KW of electricity and it will give you a good idea of power cost.


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Originally Posted By: RC51
so are you telling me this motor sucks electricity real bad??? I should not have got it maybe? I only paid 75 bucks for it. Is that a good deal? Or did I get hosed?

RC


I never mentioned any of this wink

Only way to tell for sure is to hook it up and measure the values under operating conditions.

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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
RC keep that pump -a real bargin and runs cheap IMO. It should last 20-30 yrs if you 'rebuild' the vanes a few times. It operates at close to 4-5 hrs per kilowatt of electricity. Check your power company rates for each KW of electricity and it will give you a good idea of power cost.


20-30 years is a stretch for a small motor. Leeson Electric (they make electric motors) put's the average lifespan of a motor <1HP at 12.9 years. Could last longer tho, but depends on a few variables.

Never buy a used electric motor wink

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20-30 yr life span for the 0523 is based on 5-8hrs per day Apr- early Nov operation in NW Ohio and pump has good air filtration and is not maxed out at 9-10psi. Motor bearings on GAST 0523s will usually last for 3 vane rebuild events providing the pump is kept dry, not over heated, and well ventilated. Neglect and abuse shortens life span of 0523. I have numerous units operating at 26 to 28 yrs so far since 1986-87.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 02/02/14 07:56 PM.

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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
20-30 yr life span for the 0523 is based on 5-8hrs per day Apr- early Nov operation in NW Ohio and pump has good air filtration and is not maxed out at 9-10psi. Motor bearings on GAST 0523s will usually last for 3 vane rebuild events providing the pump is kept dry, not over heated, and well ventilated. Neglect and abuse shortens life span of 0523. I have numerous units operating at 26 to 28 yrs so far since 1986-87.


A good operation and maintenance program, no doubt!

The most common cause of motor failure is the insulation on the windings breaks down. Overheating a motor rapidly advances this.

Last edited by JKB; 02/03/14 07:35 AM.
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Originally Posted By: Bill Cody
RC keep that pump -a real bargin and runs cheap IMO. It should last 20-30 yrs if you 'rebuild' the vanes a few times. It operates at close to 4-5 hrs per kilowatt of electricity. Check your power company rates for each KW of electricity and it will give you a good idea of power cost.


Hey Bill thanks for the info. I thought the price was decent! I am picking up the pump from a buddy of mine in the next day or 2. I will go through it all for sure as this is my first Gast I would like to kind of use it as a ginnie pig. Do you have any links to some good videos for rebuilding and maintaining them?

Thanks,
RC


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If it needs a rebuild just PM me for information. If the pump builds good pressure to above 15-20psi it does not need rebuilding. Get a 30psi air gauge and mount it on the manifold for pressure testing. PM me for ideas. DO NOT completely stop the air outflow and hold it stopped for more than a split second or you will cause pump to break - smash the vanes. Pump can operate under full vacuum but not for full outflow air blockage.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 02/04/14 06:59 PM.

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Bill - Would it be of any benefit to install a pressure relief valve?

Recommended Accessories
• Vacuum relief valve AA840A (0523/0823/1023/1423)
• Pressure relief valve AA600
• Vacuum gauge AA640
• Repair kit K478 (0323/0523)
• Repair kit K479 (0823/1023)
• Repair kit K575A (1423)

The Procon rotary vane pump on my TIG Chiller took a dump. It was stored for the last 5 years, and well, it wasn't pumping any water.

I found out the hard way when the cable wrapped around my right arm for the water cooled TIG Torch gave me indication that something was wrong when my flesh started to burn. Hey, that's not supposed to happen shocked Only took a few seconds for the meltdown to occur, so the cables are junk, but the burn on my arm is healing.

Anyway,
I took the pump off the motor and ripped it apart. The vanes were not sliding very well, but they started to free up. The pump worked great before storage.

Not wanting to risk putting everything back together and it not working, I bought a new pump.

Grainger had the right pump, but the pressure setting was at 250 PSI, and the Max for the TIG Welder and Chiller is 60 PSI.

Not wanting to blow everything up with the pressure being set at 250 PSI off the get go, I plumbed in a pressure gauge and backed off the built in Relief Valve. Turned the pump on and set the pressure to 55 PSI. Works like brand new! laugh wink

After all that,
I'm wondering why the vanes in this pump can operate at 250 PSI all day long, and the Gast vanes will blow up in a second. They are just carbon vanes about 1/8" thick and about an inch or so long.

If you dead head a Gast pump, what kind of pressure will it generate to cause it to blow up? It might be nice to know if an event took place, or maybe just install a Pressure Relief Valve for a bit of peace of mind.

I've never seen the internals of one that's been toasted, but it's gotta be a bit messy.


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IMO all compressors for aeration should have a pressure relief valve. Without one you are "spitting in the eye of the devil" and risking compressor damage whenever one has air blockage. The relief valve is cheap and it protects the most expensive part, the compressor, if ever there is an air blockage.

The vanes seem to break on an 0523 when the pressure gets to 30psi or more for several seconds.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 02/05/14 08:18 PM.

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Yeah, pretty cheap. Browsing around for a few minutes, 8-20 bucks depending if you want a fixed or adjustable pressure relief .

Maybe go with a fixed pressure so you don't end up in a scenario like this: laugh


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